33GTRV

Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again. Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's. Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......

well kunce, can confirm they seem to be holding up well. Since changing to the speedtek ones, no breakages, and another 150 or so launches. Now im tearing engine mounts like mothers undies on fathers day.

yeah, went looking for scientific purposes, and discovered that you need a degree in banging your nephson's sister to navigate. Pricey too the buggers

Is this based of the Mean Street Class Legal 6470 series turbos? If so, as much as i hate precisions due to the failures ive had, they will be a bonkers street turbo for the 3 litre guys if the same housing options exist.

Stao, Just managed to get my hands on a GTI-R pulsar. I want a snappy 400 awhp, on stock stroke. Will do camshafts if required. What do you recommend?

pretty common. Some people flog the end of the shaft with the inside of the socket when using an impact, and due to the cotter pin hole on the shaft, this area deforms very easily. get a nice file, run a small chamfer on the leading edge and try again. I have a few spare shafts (broken ones) in the garage. Im back in town on monday, i will have a squizz and let you know the thread sizes.

As the title suggests, looking at auto options. Im over breaking stuff. I've called Al's race glides, 12+ month wait on anything from them. Very qualified and competent mechanic so I can build most things but auto are a bit of a dark area for me. Looking for experience with converter and build. Not looking to go much further than what I have power wise as I'm not going to go billet block or 30 block. Staying 26 based.

i have found over the years that the rb26 head actually responds exceptionally well to chamber modification and simply smoothing/blending the valve and short turn area.

MCA street pro. That is all.

I break them alot lol! I use the car regularly for drag and drive events and am definately not nice to it. It is used well.

Just to throw something left field in to the equation, if you are in a relatively new house, check the garage slab and make sure they did not foam block the garage slab before pouring it. I think it may be illegal these days but i have personally seen 2 cars on top of people after the stands were punched through the garage floor into the foam block. From memory, the concrete was only about 25mm-30mm thick in the area. Less than ideal

So, after the 4th set of broken stub axles, and looking for another replacement set (i had a few sets i was hanging on to) only to discover that finding a stock set is near on unpossible, whats everyone doing here? I have looked in to the DSS setup as i had this on my old guitar, but i didnt pay 6.4k for it back then either. Has anyone had much to do with the speedtek replacement 300M stub axles? I am yet to break a stock CV, i only seem to break axle bars and stub axles, so the speedtek stuff is kinda attractive at this point in time. Discuss.

Hey my dude, i got my new ones from the lads at KUDOS at the start of the year, maybe try them for a set?

make sure you are sitting down when you go to buy the DSS shafts. I was when i got them 18 months ago and nearly fainted. Shortly after that i seen speedtek were making a 300m billet shaft!

Just had Tao modify a GTW3884r 67mm with a 1050 front wheel. The difference is night and day. Bum dyno has it coming on about 900rpm earlier with no tune change, only a reduction in bewst. Can definetly recommend him for anything turbo. Turbo currently has a 1.00 a/r and performs beyond expectations. It was a pretty potent setup before, but it is definately the goods for a very streetable 700-850whp. Car goes back on the dyno in a few weeks when i finally get some transfer case plates into the country and can finish the mod.