33GTRV

well kunce, can confirm they seem to be holding up well. Since changing to the speedtek ones, no breakages, and another 150 or so launches. Now im tearing engine mounts like mothers undies on fathers day.

yeah, went looking for scientific purposes, and discovered that you need a degree in banging your nephson's sister to navigate. Pricey too the buggers

Is this based of the Mean Street Class Legal 6470 series turbos? If so, as much as i hate precisions due to the failures ive had, they will be a bonkers street turbo for the 3 litre guys if the same housing options exist.

Stao, Just managed to get my hands on a GTI-R pulsar. I want a snappy 400 awhp, on stock stroke. Will do camshafts if required. What do you recommend?

pretty common. Some people flog the end of the shaft with the inside of the socket when using an impact, and due to the cotter pin hole on the shaft, this area deforms very easily. get a nice file, run a small chamfer on the leading edge and try again. I have a few spare shafts (broken ones) in the garage. Im back in town on monday, i will have a squizz and let you know the thread sizes.

As the title suggests, looking at auto options. Im over breaking stuff. I've called Al's race glides, 12+ month wait on anything from them. Very qualified and competent mechanic so I can build most things but auto are a bit of a dark area for me. Looking for experience with converter and build. Not looking to go much further than what I have power wise as I'm not going to go billet block or 30 block. Staying 26 based.

i have found over the years that the rb26 head actually responds exceptionally well to chamber modification and simply smoothing/blending the valve and short turn area.

MCA street pro. That is all.

I break them alot lol! I use the car regularly for drag and drive events and am definately not nice to it. It is used well.

Just to throw something left field in to the equation, if you are in a relatively new house, check the garage slab and make sure they did not foam block the garage slab before pouring it. I think it may be illegal these days but i have personally seen 2 cars on top of people after the stands were punched through the garage floor into the foam block. From memory, the concrete was only about 25mm-30mm thick in the area. Less than ideal

So, after the 4th set of broken stub axles, and looking for another replacement set (i had a few sets i was hanging on to) only to discover that finding a stock set is near on unpossible, whats everyone doing here? I have looked in to the DSS setup as i had this on my old guitar, but i didnt pay 6.4k for it back then either. Has anyone had much to do with the speedtek replacement 300M stub axles? I am yet to break a stock CV, i only seem to break axle bars and stub axles, so the speedtek stuff is kinda attractive at this point in time. Discuss.

Hey my dude, i got my new ones from the lads at KUDOS at the start of the year, maybe try them for a set?

make sure you are sitting down when you go to buy the DSS shafts. I was when i got them 18 months ago and nearly fainted. Shortly after that i seen speedtek were making a 300m billet shaft!

Just had Tao modify a GTW3884r 67mm with a 1050 front wheel. The difference is night and day. Bum dyno has it coming on about 900rpm earlier with no tune change, only a reduction in bewst. Can definetly recommend him for anything turbo. Turbo currently has a 1.00 a/r and performs beyond expectations. It was a pretty potent setup before, but it is definately the goods for a very streetable 700-850whp. Car goes back on the dyno in a few weeks when i finally get some transfer case plates into the country and can finish the mod.

Currently on the Crooked Colours Radio on Spotify. Not behd

So have been toying with the idea of parting ways with the HMAS boatyMcboatfase. Whats the general consensus on the market of r33 gtr's at the moment? I have a modified one and with the spread of pricing i have seen, its hard to gauge a sensible parting price. Details are -2.8 Spool kit (drag pro I Beams with the rod bolt upgrade and big pins)8.8:1 comp. -Nitto Drag head gasket -Nitto engine gaskets and seals -Arp head and main studs -Billet pump gears -Nismo sump baffles -Drilled oil returns, smoothed and enlarged head returns, usual restrictor -Nismo engine and tranny mounts -LS1 alternator conversion -Breather tank/washer bottle combo -Kelford 182-B cams, adjustable cam gears -Supertech everything including inconel +1mm exhaust and SS +1 valves, titanium retainers, dual springs ect ect -Extensive head work and squish mods -460 intank lift pump into undercar surge with 2x044 E85 pumps into plazmaman rail and 2200cc's, turbosmart reg -Turbosmart progate 50, GTW3884R (bigwheel) and manifold -115mm cooler -4" front to back drain pipe -JB full monty 10" clutch -S/Cut helical gearset in stock box -GKtech FUCA, RUCA, Traction, RCA's, Lockout kit, Subframe bushes and spacers -MCA pro custom coilovers -Mech rear diff (no Vspec junk) -Cam trigger kit and ATI big balancer, Vi-pec plugin with e85 only tune, Morristech 15amp external ignitor and splitfires (never had a spark issue) -Turbosmart e-boost street 40psi -M&H drag radials on stock rims -MP original paint colour car -Sound deadened doors, rear inner guards, rear panels, parcel shelf and rear wall/under seat area -Genuine 85k on the car, ive owned it since 2007. Paint is in fair condition, has the usual small blemishes as the wife drives this car to work. Makes an easy 500awkw at 27pound. Whats a ballpark sort of price do we all think? Interior is reflective of an 85k old daily driver. Is garaged, not driven in the rain and used as its built. Have not run a full pass at our local track as I have had numerous warnings about the 1/8th speed already but generally rolls through for high/mid tens. Genuine, honest all-day 10 second traffic light weapon. Only considering this to possibly fund a ProLine powertrain for another project.

Got good MPH there. Get it out of the hole and thats an easy 10

All i can add is i daily it on M&H Racemasters. Good tyre, excellent value for money from a drag radial perspective compared to the mickey thompson and hoosier stables. Seem to wear ok, stick like shart to ya mums favourite blanket Makes the traffic light derby even more lulz against the veehate brigades

could be a low level antilag function like what the link stuff has. Fuel and timing dump on decel to create an afterburn and keep the turbine turning, crude and similar to the rally car days of old

Have currently got a GTW3884r 67mm. With the .84 rear it was very similar to the precision, but now has a 1.0 rear on it. with the smaller rear, i dont think it would have made the same power as the 6466, however it will with the 1.0 rear and the trade off is around 500rpm. Made 500awkw at 28psi with that rear, and i will throw another 10 pound at it in the coming months. No back to back sorry though. I just use a mates Dyno and we get on the piss and do a few cars at a time, so the sheets are not high on our list, beer and fun times are. Also a big believer of the moroso calculator.

I have the upgraded pins in my rb28. Regularly sees 8500+rpm. Drag pro I beam Spool rods and CP pistons. For science, weigh a stock piston and pin assembly, then an aftermarket piston and pin assembly, you may be surprised. Provided the rotating assembly is balanced well, crank thrust is in spec, a good oil pump and restrictors are used and a decent balancer is on it, the limiting factor will be hydraulic top end, then crank flex, block movement and cylinder pressure. The last one, cylinder pressure, is the one that catches most RB guys out. Watch the timing at peak torque on stock unfilled blocks. If you can, blow some pressure out the exhaust or take timing out of it, and it will live a happy life, full of fuel guzzling

hnnnng

Any of you crazies doing the drag challenge weekend in May?

Some of it is warranted, unlike the turbos they sell. Don't get me wrong, they are a great little wu-tang whistler WHEN they work and don't fail/leak, but as has been stated quiet a few times, they are about as fragile as a coke addicted supermodel girlfriend. I went back to a Garrett simply for the after sales service, parts availability and warranty in the event of a failure, and they are as tough as it gets in the nagasaki noisy boi world.

turbos dont break blocks. Cylinder pressure does. Take the timing out of it a touch at peak torque and let it live forever.