33GTRV

yeah, all as per PTE's recommendations, turbo filter, the lot. Increased the drain size and was unobstructed. They were just genuine failures, and PTE proper got their nickers in a knot when i sent the turbos over to MTQ to have a teardown and report done. They wanted them back in the states right or wrong and didnt want to pay a cent, nor have anything to do with a warranty claim. Got a little vid on an old phone somewhere for comical purposes. See if i can dig it up

Done the precision thing. Blew one up, no warranty. New engine and blew another up, well documented oil pressure and not a fkn thing wrong. Both were thrust failures. Went back to a garrett. The 6466 was a good thing, but when it lasts 4 months it can get fkd. Food for thought

Just to add to this, 645wkw, spitfires, 0.8mm gap and a morristech ignitor. I'd say I would get to near on 700 with this set up and a tighter gap. All on United E85

Mca Street pro series. Then go ham on some adjustable arms.

no mate, not staging pumps. i have an under car surge tank and 2 044's fed by the in tank 460 walbro. Wiring is the usual direct feed independent relay rewire mod thats been done for donkeys years on the skyline. at 13.6v the walbro will outflow the 044s as it is unloaded(not under pressure) Its probably one of the easiest fuel systems ive ever done and up there with a fairly cheap one too. It will be getting changed soon as i will be going to a mechanical pump setup next year in the car. Either that or i blow a heap of money on a DC car as im getting the itch for speed again, bad.

I use the factory hat. I just used a bulkhead connector through it for the return

All these replies are good advice, but if you want to do it the easy way, use the feed and return lines as feeds, run a new return and you are done. The return is often overlooked and can be too small. There is enough flow with the existing feed and return lines to support 800whp on corn juice. I know, I do it. And a positive in it all is that they are factory steel tube, tucked away nice and high and are well protected.

Few things to look in to, firstly is camshaft tunnels and then lifter bores. Thats quiet fine aluminium by the looks. From there, look into crank thrust (measure this with the box off and a dial indicator on the crank end) as it could be walking and chewing up the thrust. Report back from there

Really in need of these, non vspec. This A-LSD is going in the fcuking bin. HELP A BROTHER OUT

bump

changed to a gtw3884r 67mm with a 1.0 rear, went 624hp at 26psi. Full trim on a soft launch went [email protected] and a 3825.05lb race weight. Yet to turn it up, twisted the rear half shafts. Fat broad minded person of a thing

Polyquad is not something done lightly. On an engine that sees 7500+rpm forced, it is not necessary nor is it of any real gain given the compression rates we see as street cars. It can be beneficial, but very seldomly in a street car case. The best returns are from Port matching, a larger valve and improvements in the short turn. Pick your camshafts and powerband you want to achieve. You may need to juggle valvetrain to suit

Need these. Hit me up!

Drove the fat broad minded person at the last test and tune. Drove it out steady for a 2.0 60ft, went 11.02 at 139.4mph on a set of federal super streets (595ss) and a 3437lb weigh in. R33GTR. Got a set of radials I might throw on when I get an actual wheel alignment that's not for a hill climb ??

Payed 174.9 today for f**king corn juice at United. What the actual f**k? It's a semi renewable

Moist This makes me moist Moister than an oyster

Stock cooling system!! Also, direct feed fuel pump rewire mod Also, what dump pipes Also, ditch the LOLPEXI tetris 5000 and get a decent plug in

On nankang ns2000 tyres, the really naaaaaaaaasty ones with my hillclimb alignment in the car still i went 1.6 to the 60, 7.4 to the 1/8th and 139.9 to the 1/[email protected]. You have a 10 in that. Get the alignment sorted, drop your tyre pressure to 26 and try again

Brains trust, do my et street s/s in a 275 45 17 fit under an r33 gtr on stock rims? Those 245 Hoosiers, dayum they be exxy

149 mate. 140 to 144 with street suspension, 149 and as high as 151 with bone stock suspension and a good wheel alignment. The track here is very very very good to the 1/8th, one of the fastest in the southern hemisphere, which suits the datsun well. What suspension are you using?

If you are under it and at 9.6/146 You are already leaving a bit behind. Great times for a streets never the less.

I have a 2.8 with a .84, it's a f**king weapon on the street mate, are you racing the car? I have a conservative 500awkw and I regularly get turfed from the track even on a roll through.

6466 with a .84 got me 500kw and full boost at 3750-3850 (40psi) albiet with a modified head.

What size rear housing?

Zero balance as much shit as you can, wieght match the rods, dont worry about pistons, cp are f**kin good at what they do, arp flywheel bolts, hack out the oil returns in the block and drill to 12mm, its about 60 bucks for a 12mm hss drill thats 450 long, rocol is your friend, if studding the bottom end get it tunneled, spool oil pump gears and restrictors, basic head service and clean up the short turn, make sure the clearances are good then work out squish and run the thinnest gasket you can to achieve 9.5 to 1 and enjoy a f**king weapon off boost and on