33GTRV

just got a msg that the crankshaft has arrived! will post pictures for those interested tonight when i get home from work

sure do mate. Flick me a pm if you want to have a chat about it over the phone

i havnt got the crank yet but from what im told its a full counter billet steel crank. As for knife edging, not really needed if you have the correct set up

Well, got my power figure i want to reach. Mid 400 killerwasps on low, and i want to crack 500 killerwasps on high, Pump 98, thats all we have up here. I have been trying to find if the trust t78-33d's are capable of that, but havnt been able to find alot of info on it. Most of the results ive seen are all on E85

For sale is one T78-33D genuine Trust-Greddy Turbo, condition unknown but has next to 0 shaft movement in it and feels to be reasonably fresh. Reason for sale is that im looking for possibly something a little larger It is located in Central Queensland. Price is $1000 inc General postage to anywhere in aus. Express postage will be extra(was quoted 146 bux to express it to sydney lol?) Contact via PM

luke end up buying it?

sometimes i wish i had a quick 800 sitting around >.< Good buy right there

I seen they have a hybrid EG 35r/t04R turbo, T4, divided. Looks like it might suit RB;s

Hmm, i can take a photograph tomorrow sometime of my A-LSD in my 33 v-spec if you like, ill run a vernier over them and see what i come up with. Cant guarentee a speedy response though, as im on the sauce for a 5th birthday party tonight

Yeah, i actually have the tool for squaring rings, and im pretty pedantic about squaring the ring edges. Im not actually new to the task, just new to the brand of piston. Like i mentioned in the original post, i build alot of V* garbage with KB's and JE's, and know thier rings and the way they react to different situ's well, just there was a bit of debate over the CP range of rings and thier recommended gaps in the past. Its good to get some first hand knowledge from the guys who build them for a living(RB's) I find the best way to check for square filing is to use a high intensity LED light and your eyes. I place a sheet of paper over the light, squeeze the ring closed and look for the gaps, pretty easy to see them lol. From there you just gently touch them up and get the desired gap

Hi mate, i would suggest talking to brad at pro fab race engineering. i think his name is RISKING on these forums, he does some insanely neat work with aluminium and does some great dry sump setups. Im sure if you talk to him he can make you an extended sump, and i bet you wont be dissapointed

AFM's sold and posted.

But still a nightmare to get one to fit in there, i say kudos to you for trying, i woulda looked at it and sent it to someone else lol. You are flat out squeezing a fart in there, let alone a scatter shield On a brighter note, fantastic build, and even better results, this thing looks tops and goes like a scalded cat to boot!

Legendary, thanks for the info mate. I ended up going 20 and 24-25 and yes, the oil rings were a little on the "Larger" side but i didnt touch them. As for nitrous, im not a real big fan, but i have been known to venture into the dark sometimes Thanks again, Allan

Hopefully! I was looking into a power figure i want to reach, but it is getting scary with the mods and sods that are adding up. I was going to try for a tough streeter with the ability to go at the goat track we call Benaraby Raceway. Seriously thought about flogging off the T78 i have in my possesion and go for a Journal Bearing Precision turbo, but im still undecided as i have had the fun linear delivery of lowmount twins and now i want the "Kick to the nuts" delivery of a big healthy single to keep me interested in the car. Well, interested enough to keep perservering with it. Cheers, Allan

yep, in aus they have automotive gingerbeers, or certified inspection officers. You get it inspected, he signs it off, gives you a sheet of paper and if the mod warrants it, a blue plate.(in QLD anyway, unsure of other states)

Its generally good practice to fix all problems with your car, this may be a present problem, or a developing issue. So if you or your mechanic warrant it as an issue that could do damage/harm down the track or the part is worn or unservicable, then fix it. As for a detail underbody, get an air degreasing gun and a pressure washer, make sure you relubricate anything that may need it after you are done, and dont go too nuts with the pressure washer, may cause more harm than good. I personally give the car a quick degrease underneath whenever i service it or whenever i am chasing an oil leak. Good practice to get into. Cheers, Allan

If you want to take the AFM's out, and remove the entire box its best you start from the top and work your way down. Start by loosening the wormdrive clamps that hold the intake tube to the AFM on the top and remove it, then you will have slightly better access to the lower AFM, repeat this process with it as well. Now carefully unclip the AFM harness plugs, on a 32 they may very well be fragile so take your time and dont break them Now the entire box assembly should be held down by 4 bolts, 2 at the rearmost bart of the box near the strut tower are visible, and 2 are near the headlight, still visible, but u gotta look for them. They should be a 10 or 12mm head, remove these with a small socket set, not a screwdriver as you will half mangle the drive in the head if you do and voila! the airbox is ready to be removed(provided you have removed the snorkel/air intake) Good luck, Allan

We used to get them all the time and knock them back on RWC's for it. You can get the cut approved by an engineer, and its easire than you think. Just have a chat to your nearest engineer and see what he says, it usually just involves stitching some flat plate around the area to give its stiffness back. Also, remember, measure twice, cut once and try to paint and line the exposed area to stop the steel rubbibg through your IC pipework and your car rusting.

Its held down by 4 little spring tabs. cant miss them mate. run your hand along the outside of the box where the top joins the bottom and you will feel them. simply unclip them and the top section should free up enough for you to remove and replace the filter. Good luck, Allan

Air Flow Meters sold pending payment. Bit of interest in the crankshaft but no money yet taken so get in quick guys, remember, ill do the crank, rods and pistons for a deal if you take the lot Also had forgotten to mention, all parts are located in central queensland. Cheers, Allan

Just checking duncan Best to ask the questions, as the ones you dont ask are the ones that bite you Brad, if you wouldnt mind, and if you have the time, can you please PM me a rough cost for one of these undercar surge tanks with a pierburg and barb fittings and also a cost for an extended sump with windage/baffles we were talking about earlier. Im happy to do exchange or to send you my unit as the car is in a million bits for the next few months. Thanks in advance, Allan

Thought id do some welsh plugs today, got the water gallery ones, they were in stock at the local Rip Every Poor Cnut Off store, but had to order in the 22mm oil gallery plugs so waiting on them for friday i hope. Gave the thing a new lick of paint too. Fresh paint, its like a Dulux overhaul And the mains offered up and torqued down prior to me measuring the tunnel, It is slowly starting to come together!! Just to change it up a bit, i got creative with the spray can today and grabbed the inlet manifold, cam covers and coil cover and gave them a lick of paint too. Good old wrinkle paint in black, never fails to look good. Here i was gapping rings, probably the most boring excercise known to man, besides shopping with the missus... Thats about where im at at the moment, just waiting on brad at spool to send me a crankshaft and some conrods and ill be ready to start dummying and checking clearances on bearings, endplay, crankshaft straightness ect. Hopefully i will have the head back in the first few weeks of january and then its on the blower to PFRE for some under car surge tank and extended sump fabrication and i can start doing the final assembly

Also very interested in the undercar surge you have made brad, looks the goods. Does it tuck up under there nice and high ie. away from harm and is it suitable for a street driven vehicle, and is this same tank/design suitable for a GTR. Thanks in advance, Allan

the most common issues with the atessa are the TPS voltage, the fluid level and lastly, wheel speed sensors(abs sensors) Check these and im almost positive you will find the issue. If the fluid is good, take the car into nissan and get them to do a consult check, IN FRONT OF YOU, and write down the voltages, codes ect ect. If you dont, the greasy bastards will take you for a ride, they have no fcuking idea about these cars usually and its a money making scheme for them to play dumb. If its a wheel speed sensor, it can be 1 of 2 things. The tps voltage AND/OR a faulty ABS sensor. They dont usually shit themselves so if its a sensor, try looking and it may be covered in CV grease(common) or possibly misaligned due to work bieng done in that area and it getting bumped. TPS voltage is pretty self explanatory, adjust it, if the problem comes back, replace the tps as its on the brink. Good luck Cheers, Allan