33GTRV

i guess i can do that. They are from a 1996 S2 GTR V-spec and had a GENUINE 68thousand odd k's on them. To my knowledge, all the r33 afm's are the same in the GTR's, possibly even across the board. If you are interested please PM me and we can have a chat about it over the phone. Cheers, Allan

Just be sure they dont have to polish them too far. Thats why i always try a bit of 100 or 1500 wet and dry first. If it comes off easy then keep at it, if its deep and isnt going to budge, send them in to the machine shop. They may even say to grind them back, metal spray them and have them re-ground to original spec's so just be prepared. If you are going to try the wet and dry polish at home remember to not go too hard on it, just light and easy and remember to not concentrate on any one sopt for too long. Good luck and get beer Cheers, Allan

for the love of god, tape up the front of that snail! Nice build too Looks like its gonna be pretty cool. Id say a nice set of black 17's, low and aggressive. Love these things black on black, alot like the ceffy's

my god, the iphone autocorrect is garbage! this thing needs to be run over lol

it wasnt the pump out of my cat. It was a second hand pump i picked up for a 10 pack of rambo's. My pump looks like a small torch has attacked the houring and gearset lol. Ill be doing a writeup on the pump when i get closer to finishing the build, i might even make up a bench jig to test the flow and pressure, or send it away to someone with one, depends on how creative im feeling.

i have made up a jig for my dremel and use a fine disc and depending on the ring i use a paste to stop the chipping that can sometimes occur to the plasme coating in some rings. Its pretty much a cheap version of a proper ring grinding machine.

I see a bit of surface rust, but the detail isnt much better that i can see mate. Description may help us Id be getting some very fine wet and dry and trying to polish that rust off too, provided its not too deep.

measuring the ring gap at tdc is the way i was taught. Im aware of the dramas with totalseal and moly filled ect. Just thought i might have gotten lucky with previous experiences from people on here. Most of what i build os big cube forced V8 stuff and 75% of the time its Keith blacks and totalseals, cant really go wrong with them The recommended gaps are BoreX.0055 for turbocharged/nitrous fed engines from CP's website(inches) If thats the case its 3.406X.0055 which comes up at just under 19 thou or .47mm. But like i said, there has been some debate over the accuracy and experiences people and builders have had with these. Im just looking for a bit of clarification Cheers, Allan

Ok guys, ive built a few engines over the years but have never used a mahle, CP or ross piston. I currently have a set of custom CP's from a stroker im going to be building and i want to know peoples views on ring gaps for these pistons and rings as ive heard a bit of a mixed debate on thier recommended clearances bieng too big. Current bore/piston set is 86.5. I know the "General" rule of thumb is 5thou per inch so that would land me somewhere in the 17 thou or so. What do the builders lurking out here run and what is thier recommendation? Hoping to crank around 700-800hp and reasonable boost out of it, mainly street but occasional track so i was thinking around 20 thou for the top, 24 for the second and 16-17 thou for the oil rings. Any input is appreciated. Cheers, Allan

exceptionally informative post there Godzilla34. Ill take that on board.

Also, im not into mega loud bleeding eardrum setups, i prefer some quality, but still a bit of noise as well. I listen to a broad range of music, from roger miller, beach boys, audioslave, eminem(some of) rock, hard rock, umm yeah. I listen to alot of music. Cheers, Allan

As the topic implies guys, im looking for a reputable installer who can help me out with a pretty basic but neat, proffesional install some time next year. Nothing over the top and MUST look factory and have no giveaways as to whats inside. Quick items list from the top of my head is a set of quality splits for the front, something quality for fill and possibly a small/a pair of small Subwoofers to be hidden behind the boot panel thats hiding the battery or even no rear fill. Thats where the pro comes in, also willing to source the items through the installer if its the right gear and he impresses me. Currently located in Central Queensland. And for the love of god, im not going within 400 yards of an autobarn! PS, Chris needs to PM me regarding some alarm options Cheers, Allan

merry christmas bump

As requested, le snake. We get a fair few browns around here at home but this guy is just a tree snake. Very pretty snake and a good opportunity to teach the kids about snakes and why they shouldnt touch them or go near them He was asleep on the drivers seat under the gasket kit i had resting on the seat. When i moved the gasket set he sure got the shrts on and wasnt too impressed at getting grabbed by the head lol. The wife lost her shit as usual at me for showing her close up and surprising her, but the boy loved him and didnt want to let him go lol. Cheers, Allan

i know the power i want, but its the mani thats concerning me as if it dont fit then ill stick with the trust turbo. Use what i have available to me for now as i am thinking of going 6boob and an efr down the track when they sort the delivery issues with them out.

stop bieng a tightarse and go buy a lambo. Merry christmas

Almost thinking of putting one of these on the 2.8 im building. Do they make something suitable for a greddy manifold? im not too sure if the flange is the same as a t4, i may have heard the bolt spacing is a little different.

just had my 1.5m snake arrive! he was delivered to the front drivers seat, looks to be in great nick, THANKS MOTHER NATURE! you scared the shrt out of me.

i wouldnt buy a par box to use as a paperweight, but the engine looks the goods mang, why not just hang onto it and come back to it at a later date?

Hi guys, got a few bits for sale that im upgrading. 33 GTR crank, good condition, good journals, $500 posted 33 GTR conrods, good condition, %150+postage 33 GTR camshafts, good condition, $150+postage 33 GTR airflow meters, Good condition, $150+postage 33 GTR airbox with new K&N filter element and AFM deletion pipes, good condition, $400+postage 33 GTR standard turbo's, good condition, one is missing a W/G actuator, comes with dumps, $400+postage Will do a deal on the crank rods and pistons if someone wants to buy the lot at once obviously. Contact via pm please Cheers, Allan

merry christmas, call a cab if youre on the sauce and drive safe, its not just you that can be harmed, remember this.

contrary to the name, no it doesnt. And as for loosing lures, practice your throwing technique in the backyard with a bucket and get better. If you are loosing lures to the bottom, get a better choice of lure, look for a shallow diver, also use your commonsense when selecting lures. You dont use a lure that will dive to 4m+ if you are fishing a snag with 5 feet of water ofer it. Hardbody lure fishing is by far the most expensive way to fish the creeks as good hard bodies are worth upwards of $20 each(eg. Rapala X-Rap's, Predatek Vipers, Stiffy's, Bombers, Tilsons) Alot of the jack i catch in the river are hanging out in the submerged trees or along rock ledges, they are an ambush predator and will usually only hit bait if they have somewhere to run to, like the snag or rocks. They can sometimes patrol the mangroves but they are usually very easily spooked when they are out in the open. Cheers, Allan

bump

Hi guys. First cab off the rank: This is a basic tutorial meant as an informative guide only and i accept no responsibility for work you choose to do on your own. Remember, if in doubt, consult your engine builder/machinist ALWAYS! Ok, here ill show you a quick guide on replacing or upgrading your RB oil pump gears. Its relatively easy and pretty quick if the pump is out of the car. Time: Approx 1hr. Cost: Gearset(personal choice of OEM or aftermarket, i went aftermarket at $475) Loctite thread locker $10.99, Impact screwdriver $20 and a new main seal $unknown, probably about 10 bucks, Degreaser $9.99 Tools required: Impact screwdriver and bits, Small Ball Pein Hammer, Phillips head screwdriver, gasket scraper, small brush Your pile of stuff should look like this Directions are relatively straight forward, even for the not so mechanically minded. First of all, give the outside of the oil pump a good cleaning with some degreaser and a small brush to remove any excess grime and build up, if you have access to a small pressure washer, use it, makes it far more simpler, but remember, safety first, wear some goggles and the appropriate clothing and footwear if you do. After a quick wash it should look like this. Standard oil pump, in need of lovvin. Ok, now, get the pump on a flat stable surface where you can get a firm grip on it and use the impact driver to loosen the backing plate screws on the pump. Once all of the screws are out, carefully remove the coverplate, mentally noting where and how everything looks. Its a handy way to remember if you are sidetracked momentarily with something, like the kids for instance. After you have the backing plate off, it should look like this Now carefully remove the gearset inner and outer, noting where the timing marks are. Once again, its time to clean the pump. Clean clean clean! the cleaner it is the better it is. Now its clean, its time to wipe a small smear of grease onto the face of the pump housing that the gerotor rests on like so, you dont need alot here. Now its time to install your new OEM/aftermarket gears into the housing. I places the inner gear into the housing first then gently layed the outer gear into the housing second. As you can see here ive gone with a Spool billet gearset that utilises the same wave design as the nismo and n1 gearsets. Now check everything is snug, everything is clean and everything is in the right place. If all is as its supposed to be, its time to place the cover plate back onto the pump. Gently place the cover plate over the gearset (this only goes one way, so if you fcuk it up, you really need to go and get hammered) Now, i have seen far too many oil pump components in my time rattle loose under harsh operating conditions, so its a preference of mine to use a small amound of Loctite thread locker on the cover plate screws. You dont need to bath the things in it, just a small portion on one side of the screw as it will be pushed around the thread once its engaged into the housing. Now, make sure you have got enough loctite to just cover the countersunk underside of the screw when it is torqued too, its a good habit and will guarentee they wont work themselves loose during thier life cycle.Torque the screws up firm and youre ready to go! DO NOT USE THE IMPACT DRIVER TO TORQUE THEM UP! There is an almost certain chance you will strip threads ot damage the housing. Demonstrated below And finally, the reason for the replacement. This is not actually the pump out of my car, it ingested a washer and the housing was shagged. This was a pump i picked up cheap and as "Condition unknown" but this is the start of a very sinister ending for an engine. The crack has started to form after what looks like its had a few limiter bashings as pictured below. Hope its of some help to you all and if there are any variations ive missed, let me know so i can edit them in. HAPPY HUNTING! Cheers, Allan

Had a billet oil pump gearset arrive today from Spool, thanks brad. Also had some new valve springs arrive from the same company but unfortunately my conrods and crankshaft will not be available until after christmas, you cant have your cake and eat it too