33GTRV

Quick update guys. Nismo Fuel pump is in, Injectors are in, did new front brakes and rotors while i was at it (thanks QFM!) new TPS and im currently getting the exhaust manifolds port matched to the head and turbines, there pretty messy from stock. Now, do i do the dumps or are the 33 dumps good enough? Just that the turbo's are off and ill be fracked if i wanna do that again! Cheers, Allan

After talking to Gerrard at par he has informed me that they wont warraant the gearbox im purchasing if i use redline. They STRONGLY reccomend motul gear 300 or neo 75/90rhd oil. i can find the neo oil, but at $241.50 a bottle(5L) plus postage its gonna be a scary ride replacing gearbox oil every 7500kms lol Cheers, Allan

If im priced too high shoot me a PM guys. Im only really basing my prices off previous sales in this for sale thread. Im more than happy to take offers

Thanks for your co-operation Mill-180. Its good to see there are still good honest reliable people out there, even if i do wake you up at nearly mid day lol!

yeah revhead, regional flights are notoriously scary, especially from gladstone, its $161 cheaper if he flew to rockhampton, and thats 107km further north, sometimes i just dont get it. As for the tuning side of things, im hoping to get a tune done thats adequate and safe to drive it to a shop then mark@godzilla can do the hard yards and get me the numbers! The reply's and suggestions have been great guys, there greatly appreciated!! Cheers, Allan

Forgot to add, please pm me any enquiries

Up for sale is a set of Standard Injectors, Fuel pump and 2 Airflow meters. These items are in great condition and are bieng removed due to upgrades. Items are 71548klms old. They are located in Central queensland and as such postage is at the buyers expense. Injectorsx6:$350 Fuel pump:$150 AFM's:$100 each As stated, all items are in good working order and currently still on the car, once the sale is organised they will be removed and posted!! Cheers, Allan

Ok guys, im after some motul or neo gear oil, i have asked all the local auto shops around here and all i gotr was "huh?wtf is motul" so yeah, point me in the right direcion if u will! Cheers, Allan

Well, the turbo's are off, the box is out and on its way to the builder and my hands look like they have been through a god dam mincer, OHMAGAWD the turbo's are a bitch of a thing to get out, im dreading the installation process something fierce! Now, the Vi-Pec goes in! See u all in an hour or 2!

Well, after working it out, hiring the dyno for 8hrs at $165hr, return flights to sydney at $849.70 and the cost mark will charge its gonna be a real killer. Im actually located in Gladstone, Central queensland, smack in the middle of everything lol Just weighing up the option of putting it onto a truck and sending it somewhere, to get it to brisvegas is gonna cost me 741 smacko's one way inc insurances. Still waiting on how much to get to other places

yeah, mackeye is still 5hrs away tho lol. we have recently got a 4wd dyno into town but i dont trust one of the tuners:(

Keep it comin guys! any one recomend any tuners in the central qld region? preferably one familiar with Vi-Pec

Ill bring the work ute along for a look but the R is in bits at the moment, just took out the box and am halfway thru taking off the turbo's, not to mention that its a 2wd dyno!! It would be good if that slug S14 coulda got a good run in lol As for tractors, we drive echidna's up this way brah, build em tough in the good parts

Hey guys, i am about to part with the folding stuff for one of ray hall's Vi-Pec plug in ecu's for my gtr but i am having trouble getting feedback for the plugins. Anyone here used them? experiences ect, help an old guy out! Cheers allan

Any ideas of where and when it is? Im looking at organising one with a few local car clubs, kinda need to go to maybe mopower as there the only 4wd dyno here Cheers, Allan

Well, as i have posted in the transmission forum, i killed the stock gearbox, i went for a par 1-4 S/C syncro box. This thread is a quick outline of what i got for the money and where i got to down the strip. Car is a low km R33 GT-R V-spec with a really big guy driving it!(Read fatty lol) 1: Par 1-4 S/C sync G/box. $5745 2: 600cc Nismo drop in injectors and nismo upgrade fuel pump (second hand albiet in good working order) $920 3: Vi-Pec Plug in ECU(the one that fits into the stock ecu box, internal 2.5 bar map) $1650 4: Tune (god this was hard to organise in a regional area) $475 5: Hi-Flowed standard Turbochargers( these were only 70k old so i figured rebuild to -5 specs) $1600 6: Adjustable cam gears $499 7: Random spares(ie. vac. hose, gaskets, general consumables) $300 Stockish run(up-pipes and 3.5" exhaust, K&N panel filter) stock boost ect. 12.58 Next up when the box arrives ill start adding power mods and the box and keep you all updated Any suggestions ect please, keep it clean and constructive!! Im all ears, im an ex subaru nutcase so GT-R's are a new field to me!

Some of the decision was based around the fact that the car is sock, For now!! I have a Vi-pec on the way and am looking at dash 5's, cams and fuel system. Im hoping to get away with 10k to get to my low 12/high 11 sec goal(10k including the box)

Well, after weighing up the options of getting a reconditioned gearbox and 'Hoping' this doesnt happen again Vs. the initial outlay and extra maintenance required for an aftermarket high strength gearbox ive decided to go with a PAR 1-4 straight cut synchromesh engagement gearbox. Thanks for the input and advice guys. Just a quick pre product plug for PAR, Gerrard seems to know what you want and is more than willing to give you as much information about what you want to know, great customer service guys! Cheers, Allan

Well, as the title imposes. Was driving home the other night from work in a not very spirited manner and coming off a round a bout, select 3rd gear, selects fine, gas it a little to get to 80 and all i get is FKN BANG crunch rattle rattle clunk ect ect. Sad sad day for me. So, now what to do....Do i go looking for a stronger gearbox and hope to christ this never happens again or do i look to get the box reconditioned. Considering the gearbox is 74 450kms old i was a little shattered to say the least. Is it worth going a straight cut/Helical cut 1-4 dog sync 5th or are the OS gearsets worth the hassle? What are peoples experiences with PAR and PPG gearests (please, if your mate has one and he says, i dont wanna know, if YOU have one, im all ears) Approximate costs ect if your willing to share would be great too. ATM car is a 33 GTR V-spec, dumps and equal length pipes into 3.5 Kakimoto exhaust and a k&n filter, JB carbon clutch and nothing else. All feedback is appreciated, cheers Allan

Hello People. Im after a bit of input on the range of 5Zigen wheels and maybe a few pics of some/similar looking ones on any dark coloured 33 GTR's. Size, width and offset would be good if you can specify too please. Wheel model im interested in are the GN+ series Cheers all

On a side note, Dont go telling the whole world how to do it, there is bound to be some kid in an N13 pulsar that will lock himself out of the Nats ecu lol

Key cutting is a given-Locksmiths do this for a living. As for the Programming of the NATS key, there are 2 options. Option 1: Take the key(already cut and ready to go) to your preffered nissan dealership and ask the people there nicely to Program your key to your car, its a 2 min job with a consult system Option 2: Now this is the tricky bit. It sounds easy and looks easy but its sometimes a pain in the ass if you arent fast enough. There is a simple set of Functions the car can use to recognise you are programming a ke as a secondary option. To do this you will need to: Here they are....... enjoy!! ID Code Entry Procedure To enter the ID code, follow this procedure: "Setting Mode": 1. Close and lock all doors. 2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will flash twice). At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated. ID Code Entry: 3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position 4. Push the "lock" button on the new remote control once(for example, if the door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice). Additional ID code Entry: 5. If you need to activate additional remote control units, unlock the drivers door, then lock it again(WITH THE DOOR LOCK SWITCH). 6. Push the lock button on the additional remote once. 7. This ID code enable state and setting mode will remain until the drivers door is opened. NOTE!! * If you need to activate more than two additional keyless remotes, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote. * If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored. *Entry of a maximum of four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored. *Any ID codes entered after termination of the "Setting Mode" will not be accepted. Additional keyless remote signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the setting mode. *Some cars that were imported also had a NATS2 system that was varied to the normal Nats. You cant manually program these keys and will need to Take it to a Nissan Dealership to be Programmed with the CONSULT2 system. This may take up to 20 mins and therefore you may be charged a half hour block of labour. Good Luck and hope this helps!! Might even get a sticky

As always, different driving scenario's require different approaches. It was posted as a basic guide for everyday driving and is the same guide 90% of our nissan workshops go by On a personal note i use Mobil1 or Fuchs in the engine where possible and use Genuine oils in the driveline. (please note: Genuine Driveline oils from nissan are notoriously dear, MaticD for instance is scary!!) As for Castrol's recomendation, its much the same with Mobil's, Penrite's, Fuch's and GW's oil recomendations, surely they cant all be wrong. Hope you get your oils sorted and good luck with your Skizza!

Also note if its an A-LSD or a mechanical type The use of the car(ie daily driving/track bashing/drag meets) The climate your in as well All these can factor in what oil will be 'Best' suited to your needs as different driving scenario's and so on all present thier own unique hazards. As a future reference you can pay a quick visit to www.castrol.com for a basic guide to your cars needs on oils for everyday operation Enjoy!

Cheers. I have gone the 11 UtopiaBE sub in a custom box under the parcel shelf before, as good as it sounded it ended up bieng a pain in the ass as the Atessa-ETS and ABS computers are in the way on the V-Spec's. On the last one i had done we relocated them, which was good in theory, however when the Atessa Comp shat itself it was a nightmare to get it all back out without damaging a $1700 sub Input appreciated and thanks for the pointing in the right direction Cheers