groonsnout

hmmn.. just got off the ph to the mechanic and relayed your thoughts - and he seemed to think the transfer case bearing was a chance. He said that normally when you drop the shaft out, you can unbolt 2 bolts, rotate it by hand and get to the other two, except he said that he couldn't turn it by hand, it was too stiff.. and the GTR shaft was actually fouling at the end of the transfer case (against a switch and a bracket that couldn't be bent back any more) His concern was that to change the bearing in the transfer case he had to drop the gearbox out of the car.. ($) He also said that when he ran it with the shaft out the transfer case output was spinning true, but it was a bit hard to tell for sure. The bearing might have seized rather than collapsed, but there is no play with the new shaft in, but it goes spastic when spinning!!! ARGH!!! <sigh>

Ew.. nasty! So do either of those situations normally consist of transfer case/front diff replacement?

Mine was almost $2500... but I had a cracked exhaust manifold (with 4 broken studs) and leaking main seal etc.. <sigh> But it was a new car afterwards. Had the usual work done with water pump, thermostat, plugs, timing belt (racing one) plus had engine mounts done, all acc. belts, vacuum hoses etc etc etc..

Here's an odd one.. I was getting some very bad vibrations/noises from the driveline of my S1 RS4 Auto (stock) and after a quick trip to my mechanic, they told me that the small drive shaft that joins the transfer case to the front gearbox (the one you remove for 2wd) was shot. Apparently the uni's were completely gone on it. He ordered in a GTR shaft as the measurements were the same, but upon installation the shaft was whipping under power like an unmanned garden hose! A short drive made certain that this wasn't the solution.. So here are my questions! Is the GTR Shaft (not sure if 32 or 33) interchangeable with the stagea? He said it's thicker (40 vs 32mm) but the same length. And if not, where would be the best place to get a S1 stagea one? Would it be the transfer case or the front box making the shaft whip like a snake? It really moves around and he is concerned it's the transfer case, but he said even in the high power GTR's he builds, he's never seen a transfer case go like that. I've tried to search this, but it seems that this part of the driveline is normally pretty solid.. which worries me somewhat.. Help! These guys are Skyline guru's but new to stags. Cheers, michael PS: I got them to fit a HKS silent power bolt on and metal cat while it's in there.. WTF not!

G'day, According to the tein website they will fit an S2 without any problems. But as I've only had them on a S1, I can't be sure 100% and it's worthwhile doing some homework on them before buying. They are fitted to my S1 in the picture when I purchased it. There is a difference between front and back, but a stock stag does sit a little nose up, and with them on it sat very well. Sorry, it's the only pics I have with them fitted. Cheers, Michael

Ok! found some info: STAGEA WGNC34 1996.10-2001.10 RS-Four AWD 2500 SOFT SKN78-S1B00 \24,000 (MSRP) \25,200 (incl TAX) FRONT 3.1k spring rate -51mm ride height REAR 3.8k spring rate -25 ride height hope this helps! from: http://www.tein.co.jp/search/search1.cgi?a...SSAN〈=e

just whatever they go for on ebay. If there is only 1 bid then $50. I was just going to post them on here, but I couldnt get the images working... Not sure of exact spring rates, see if you can look it up online. They were firmer than stock though. But not bone jarring like a lot of jap springs. Michael

G'day Everyone. Just doing a shed cleanout and selling a full set of TEIN Dress up Master springs for a RS4. Not sure if this will fit S2, so do your homework! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=180232877379 Cheers, Michael

I've done many G-tech runs in my STOCK S1 RS4 automatic, all at nighttime in 20 degrees ambient or so, not loading up the stall, just planting it. (power mode on) and once you modify the boost solenoid to avoid the low rev boost cut, it was amazingly consistent. I was getting constant times around the 7.5 seconds to 100, 14.8 sec 400m @ 92mph. There was variations of course but it was around that mark. Without grounding the boost solenoid it was around the 8.5 sec mark and 15.5 sec for the 400m. Would have though S2 would be substantially faster than this, not just because of the increase in power and torque, but also the extra ratio in the gearbox would definitely help acceleration times. Michael

It sets the front/rear torque split to 50/50. Handy for ice, mud or wet grass, that's about it. Now if it had actual diff lockers you could jack one of these puppies up and get some serious off roading done! the main point of this presentation is.. don't use it unless you are really struggling for grip. Using it on dry roads doesn't make for a happy stagea. happy new years all.

My dad told me about this when I was a kid and over the years I've found it to be true on about 85% of cars so far.. so pretty handy if you're in a mates car and need to fill up without looking like an r-tard. Or just do the pop it open and look in the mirrors! so what about old falcons and the such that fill under the rear badge or license plate? hmmn.....

Hmmn.. I'm still unconvinced it's a turbo failure, pretty unusual in a new car like this - Like suggested before, first thing would be to pull inlet & exhaust off it and have a good look at it, spin it if you can. Does it blow any smoke under boost or when cold? I'm sure you can remove it with the engine in car. Even in my 300zx TT which if anyone has ever owned one, you can't even SEE the turbos under the engine bay, are possible to remove with the engine in place. Fair enough it's easier sometimes to drag the engine to give yourself more room, but maybe source a service manual for the M35 and read the Nissan procedure. Anyone know what sort of snail these V6 engines use?

thanks chris sounds like the go. out of interest, if it's the yellow/red coming into the ECU, where does that signal come from under the engine bay? or is it coming OUT of the ecu to the tacho? just thinking of an under bonnet connection if possible, but really not a problem to run it across to the ecu either.. Cheers, Michael

settle down psycho.. take more or less of whatever you're on If you're just looking for a solution to get it on the road then how is it any more illegal than other people's sugestions of putting 3 cats on the car just to pass emissions then pulling them off later, or engine swaps and swap backs you need to take a good hard look at yourself mate.

thanks mate - you're a champ, as far as I'm aware, stagea's use slightly different pin-outs than a R33 but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out!

thought about that! Except doesn't the pump get 12V when the ignition is fired (or just put the ignition ON) as it primes/pressureises the system?

I thought this was pretty obvious in my first post - that's the whole reason I need the source wire. The remote start works great already but just needs a slightly longer trigger to get going when it's really cold (canberra cold).

Hmmn.. I know it sounds dodgy, but modify/swap build plate for 2003, rego, jobs done.. here in the ACT you only need to get one rego check done on purchase and never again (apart from randoms..) not sure what's like up there, but that would be the way to go down here.

Just for a wire which delivers 12V ONLY while the engine is running, not when it's stopped or starting or the ignition is on, ONLY when running..

yep and it's all hooked up, and like I mentioned, the remote start works great except it turns off too quickly as the alternator provides 12v just from being turned over by the starter - all remote start alarms require a 12V signal from the engine while running to stop the starting sequence, so I'm just wondering what wires in the car might provide 12V only when the engine is running? Cheers, Michael

G'day All, I've just fitted a pretty flash alarm to my S1 RS4 stagea with remote start etc.. and it all works great EXCEPT the alarm requires a source to splice into which provides 12V once the engine is running to stop the ignition sequence. The obvious source was the alternator so I wired it into there, but the alternator provides voltage so quickly that it only gets the chance to turn over about twice before cutting the starter. This works great when the engine is warm, but when cold, or has been sitting, it requires a couple of extra turns to get firing and the alarm kills the starter before it's fully kicked over. So which wire would give 12V when the engine is fully up and going? The manual suggests wrapping it around the coil (or coil pack I guess) but that seems messy. I assume there would be a signal wire coming back from a relay somewhere under the bonet? A charging regulator? Any ideas at all? or is there any way of putting something in line like a big capacitor or similar from the alternator to delay the power through the wire? Sorry, I'm far from an electrical guru! Thanks for any help

12V constant would mean the starter would never kick over.. I need 12V only when the engine is running, not when the ignition is on/off etc.. hmmn..! It was a bit of work, I swapped over the drivers door motor as it wouldn't properly trigger on negative, but that was only $10.. but lots of wiring!

G'day All, I've just fitted a pretty flash alarm to my S1 RS4 with remote start etc.. and it all works great EXCEPT the alarm requires a source to splice into which provides 12V once the engine is running to stop the ignition sequence. The obvious source was the alternator so I wired it into there, but the alternator provides voltage so quickly that it only gets the chance to turn over about twice before cutting the starter. This works great when the engine is warm, but when cold, or has been sitting, it requires a couple of extra turns to get firing and the alarm kills the starter before it's fully kicked over. So which wire would give 12V when the engine is fully up and going? The manual suggests wrapping it around the coil (or coil pack I guess) but that seems messy. I assume there would be a signal wire coming back from a relay somewhere under the bonet? A charging regulator? Any ideas at all? or is there any way of putting something in line like a big capacitor or similar from the alternator to delay the power through the wire? Sorry, I'm far from an electrical guru! Thanks for any help

I'm 26 years old, and they gave me 65% no claim, with lifetime protection. Like I said, shannons was cheapest originally, but they had stupid restrictions (and do with anyone) like they go door knocking if your car is stolen around your neighbourhood to see if anyone has seen the car parked on street or in the driveway, and don't pay out if anyone has.. (direct from the shannons rep)

So I had quotes of Shannons and Just cars for my S1 RS4.. The Shanonns quote was the cheapest, but had all the usual crap shannons conditions like the car can't be visible from the street etc.. Just cars was through the roof ($1500 yr + stupidly high excess). So I talked to GIO about their new custom car insurance. They gave me a quote of $1400 with no restrictions, a decent excess, windscreen protection, 65% no claim with lifetime protection etc.. So I told them it was a fair bit higher than the shannons quote and they told me to fax a copy of it through as company policy is to beat any quote by $50! So I got the car fully insured, with all the bells and whistles, for $14,000, for $980 per year! Give them a try! Or just get quotes through someone else and get them to beat it, choice of repairer, lifetime warranty on repairs etc.. as well. Cheers, Michael