MoogLe

that sounds more like the PBR is stuck with the vent closed on warm air only look in the driver side footwell you'll see a small motor with a moving and and a rod connected to it, disconnect that rod and move it manually in your direction untill you hear a THUD which indicates the vent closing

guilt-toy, you are officially my hero!

WOOT! this fixed my problem! so glad to have the AC back up and running, was driving me crazy!! guilt-toy you are officialy my hero! so glad i didnt take my dash apart!

dude, you have NO IDEA how much i searched for this problem, but all that kept coming up was AC regassing problems, PBR problems and so on, nothing that sounded like what i had but OMG i'm so hoping that this is the problem i'm having!!!!! And i have a buddy with a wrecked skyline so it would be the perfect opportunity to get the part, i am taking my glove box out TOMMOROW to check this out. I'm so glad i kept bumping this thread so you replied, otherwise i would have ended up taking my dash off for nothing!

any of you wanna give me your old drift button?

well since you wont be using the lines as actual OIL lines i dont think you need real high quality stuff for it i wouldnt spend that much money on the hoses personally.... and about the filter i posted uptop, the clear bottom part can be unscrewed and emptied out. Can someone please just confirm that running the catch can atmospherically that it wont be causing any vacuum leaks and explain to me why blocking the PCV is necessary to run it atmospherically? wouldn't my idea achieve the same thing? maybe if someone explained to me what the purpose of the PCV is in the first place i could understand....

woops sorry i forgot to post the pic this is the filter i was talking about

the way your describing it makes the catch can sound kinda of pointless really but maybe i'm understanding it wrong and what benefit would capping the pcv valve rather than than putting a filter like i described have? the way i see it, the pcv valve is there for a reason isnt it?

I'd like to revive this dead thread cause i am confused as hell right now this is how i have mine hooked up (I got it this way from japan) So i'm thinking about running the atmospheric setup shown on in this thread and putting one of these types of filters between the PCV and the intake manifold, but the one thing that is leaving me in doubt is that some people claim that the atmospheric setup creates a vacuum leak in the system.... So what is it, will it or wont it create a leak? i used to use one of those filters on my old car between the pcv and the IM and it worked great, collected allot of oil Opinions?

bump

well, i checked all the fuses and relays marked as A/C and i didnt find anything, i'm going to take a look at the blower is there a way to test that? oh and it's not the clutch/compressor, that's a different sound and i can still feel the compressors kick in when i turn it on as i feel my rpm's rise when it's on

well i tested a relay in the engine bay fuse box labeled as A/C are there any other fuses in the cabin maybe? i couldnt see any that were labeled as such

no, definately not a spark way too loud and clunky hmmmm thanks for the fuse idea though i took out the fuse and tried it out and nothing changed, so it could definately be the fuse. gonna go to a parts store and have the fuse checked!

gold? it looked like a goldish color, same color as the stock fuel rail and the fuel pump bracket among other oem parts is that what you're reffering to as gold?

today for some reason after disconnecting and reconnecting my battery, all of the sudden my A/C no longer blows and i started hearing a clicking sound in my dash. I'm suspecting something to do with a vent being stuck closed, maybe all the air is being relayed to the vents that blow the windows or something i dont know. So can someone please give me some info on this? I've read about a blend motor that can get worn down, but could it prevent air from being blown through the vents entirely?

think i may have just found it http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/NISMO-4-1L...3-RB25DET-15675

pics of my pump somebody please give me some info on this, the only picture i've found of a similar looking pump is this one http://www.nengun.com/hks/fuel-pump the second pic looks exactly the same, but i dont know if that's an actual picture of the pump or if they just used any ole pic of a fuel pump

hey guys i'm gonna be taking out my fuel pump today to check if it's already been upgraded or not. I suspect it has since it's pretty noisy at times. So what do i look for to see if it's the stock one or not when i take it out?

well, i found the problem. it was like i thought, the PBR "valve" shown in the picture, i took out the whole assembly and moved the arm by hand which closed some vent and i got cold air again. now i'm looking for a way to test it. there's a servo in it, so i'm thinking maybe connect it to a battery? was thinking a 9v?

Well yesterday i was doing some drifting, and when i do that in a small space my car overheats a bit, but that's a different problem. But to aid in that, i turned on the heater, which helped allot cool the car down a bit. But afterwards when i turned the temp back all the way down and turned on the a/c button i was still getting hot air. i checked the refrigirant and it was just fine. i did the diagnostics and i got 2 errors, 25 which is the sunload sensor and 26 which is the PBR. the first time i did the diagnostics i didnt get the sunload sensor error so im thinking maybe the second time may have been a fluke. Right now i'm concentrating on the damn PBR valve. I did a search on here and found out where it is. But i'm still not certain as to what is should be doing.... From what i read, it's supposed to move the arm depending on which temp you set your ac? i messed around with the temp settings but it didnt do a thing. If this is the culprit of my problems how can i bypass it? Can i just take the motor out and move it manually? i never use the heater anyway. Help me out here guys!

yea, that's what i was worried about and why im asking anyone else?

So as many of you all know i didnt get much reaction from my GB attempt for the fluids, so i'm looking for local alternatives When i emailed Redline they recommended MT90 for the gearbox and 75w90 for the diff But we dont have redline locally, what i did find was Valvoline 75w90 syn power Anyone know if it would be ok to use this in both the diff and gear box? link to the valvoline one http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/pr....asp?product=58 i could really use some opinions on this!!

well for the price he's offering me ($450), i'm looking for a way to fix it

bump

so, what did you do with it?