Paradis v.1

i'll take it if you will ship it to canada. we'll work out the postage

someone brought a good point. I guess i could be more specific on my set up.. its an RB20DET, but everything else around has been upgraded/modified (EMS,Fuel,IC etc) and am running about 1.25 bar (18psi) producing about 298rwhp

Ya, this is what I was convinced was the issue. I guess having two motors in a row with the same valve seal issue has made me very suspicious. problem is the timing and symptoms of the oil burning appear so closely to that of worn valve seals I am using 0w30, but i'm going to replace in about a week or two. thankfully I have access to a performance and a couple mechanics on the weekend that i don't have to pay for, as it's a time consuming job. ...still i really did want to do this unless i was absolutely sure.

ugh, c'mon you guys. i could really use some feedback. This issue has been going to for too long, you're my last line of defense

Really need another turbo guys. have a feeling my other one's on it's last leg. Need it shipped to Canada and will of course pay accordingly. Currently running one that bought off a member here from on my '91 HCR32 and i loved it thanks

Alright, i've been wrestling with this for some time. I can't seem to get the answers locally. So I'm hoping the elite of A-U could take a gander and weigh in on this. I'll try and be as specific and straight to the point. Symptoms... -Getting heavy short burst of blue smoke (clearly oil) out of my exhaust. This happens primarily after start up (but not only) and almost exclusively upon decel/idle at lights and such when i have to slow down after driving. Comes and goes, but is much more prevalent during the first 5 mins of driving. I would say "cold", but there's many times where the car has sat for 15 mins (obviously engine isn't cold yet) and sure as the sun coming up i get those heavy bursts in the first few minutes. -While i do suspect that i am burning a little bit of oil now at idle all the time now, i can say with 100% confidence that it does not increase nor do i get any blue smoke or burst when i'm accelerating or boosting. -Turbo is series 2 (neo) rb25 turbo high flowed by you guys down under. there is some shaft play there, but there turbo as been pretty strong and hasn't shown the usual signs of dying on me yet. -similar issue happened on my previous motor. makes me weary that its something beyond valve seals. This is different motor, but everything around it (turbo,plenum etc) is all from previous set up. What i can rule out.... -compression and leak down tests. done and all is good. -rear seal on turbo. pulled off the back side of everything and it looks good. -ic piping and such doesn't show that oil has been circulating around in there. this i have to do again to be sure though as there was some other unrelated events that did track some oil in there so that made a little tuff to be positive. So i'm really stumped. Given that this is kind of in a way a reoccuring issue with using the same turbo, kinda points to somewhere my turbo is pushing oil, maybe the front seal is worse than i thought. But the timing of smoke with regards to sitting at lights, and being that its heavy at first makes me think seals... but after the engine is hot? 10 mins is clearly no where near long enough to have it get cold. and to have seals go on 2 motors... ? seems like more than bad luck. this issue was present pretty much right as soon as i got the other motor dropped in. So either it was happening to whomever had the motor before hand (no contact with said person) or there's some else at play.. Answers? Ideas that i haven't thought of? I've read alot of your puffing blue smoke threads, but they always end before the poster ever discloses what actually ended up happening.

bump

Hi there, looking to buy a replacement for my Hiflow 25 Neo turbo i've been running that appears to be on its last leg. Needs to be able to do atleast 230kw at the wheels. Used or new, interested in either. I enjoyed my last Hiflow'ed turbo from Australia considerably and would really like to find another.

ya i was having all kinds of idle issues, granted some of that has to do with my q45 TB with the monstrosity of a plenum i have rigged up to it, but the vipec overcame all that and never stalls regardless. Great results on the dyno, but i was more impressed with the ease and response we had road tuning. very responsive interfacing and fun to work through. The launch control paired with using traction control at rev intervals and my first crack at this no lift shift (or flatshift) business has made driving an absolute delight all over again

Post Removed. See post here for why.

how are things going with the launch of this unit gentlemen?

well i'm running about 17 psi. Guess i'll through the old '32 on

huh, ok. thanks for the heads up

anyone else?

Cool. well i have both actuators, and i know that using the rb20 one does give a significant increase over the rb25. however i've heard the AVCR does all the work and the rating of the actuator is irrelevant.

Can someone confirm whether or not when you use an electronic boost controller, does that negate the differences between using rb20 vs say rb25 wastegate actuators. I remember reading once that the difference in is like 7 to 10psi or so though if you use say an AVCR it nullifies the advantage in sticking with a rb20 actuator. -Chris

it wasn't running revs and i'm almost certain its not hydrolocking, not anymore at this point, maybe once at first. I was referring to the individual who fabricated my plenum with a Q45 TB and failed to inform me of several specifics, its already been an issue twice. Now its alteast a possibility that the TPS is one too.

Ok, i'd like to move the focus away from this end of the world bent rod scenario. I honestly doubt that happened, and if it did, then its already done. That still doesn't help me figure out whats wrong and i've got to get to that point first.

No, i'm thinking not, it might have done it the one time, but its seems to be an electrical problem, i think the starter just keeps shutting off at this point. I really hope that nothing is bent. If so, i'll be sure to find the problem and kill the person responsible. (assuming its not me )

Ok, thanks for the tips guys,. so to answer some of the points here... Used an fpr this morning. Didn't fix the problem. Did make the locking more consistent in that it takes about 1.5 full seconds for the engine to lock. However, this is a little bizzare. it no longer sounds like hydrolocking. It might have hydrocked the first time, but i'm fairly certain thats its not doing it anymore, Infact I'm able to continue turning it over while it cranks for 1.5 secs before locking, and sounds most definitely like something electrical is just cutting out and the starter just stops. TPS is something i will look into tonight, but i'm beginning to wonder if it has anything to do with relocating my battery to the trunk. I had to with the position of the of the TB was pointing right at the stock battery location. Wondering something isn't grounding properly maybe.. The injectors were brand new and should be ok, it would be odd for all of them to not be working, and even if 2 of them were malfunctioning, i think the symptoms would be different that just 1 sec of turning over then locking/shutting off. As for all the ECU talk, i'm sure there is some truth to all that, but the one thing i can say is the tuner that did my ECU is a complete nerd with engine management/fuel management electronics. Every professional tuner has their aspects they excel at better than others, and this guy seems to be an electronic wiz for the most part, so if he tells me my ecu should run the car enought to get it to the shop, i have to take his word for it at this point.

Yah i've been avioding that because the new plenum that i installed makes the fuel rail an absolute pain in the a$$ to get out. Thats my next step. but all it will likely do is get me to a shop to pay someone else to fix, the problem won't go away.

Well when the cylinders are completely emptied it does take a few seconds of trying to turn over before it locks. Its when i just empty the one extremely full cylinder that i get about one rev. Are they pulsin or pumping? i dunno. but the fact that certain cylinders are filling on certain strokes i would think pulsing no? how would i look into this as i don't see it being an ECU issue.

Alright, i give up. I've been under my hood for what seems like forever (which probably has alot to do with the weather finally shaping up) and i'm not making any progress here. I need some tips/ suggestions, otherwise its gonna have to go to the shop and i don't want to the big money if i can avoid. To make things simple, I'll just list everything i've done, and what i know it isn't. Recent work (all done in one shot) -New SARD 265 fuel pump & Deatchwerks 550cc injectors. -fmic -custom side feed plenum with Q45 throttle body. -Z32 MAF -Highflowed Neo rb25 turbo -Ecu was mapped for Z32 and 550ccs to get me to the shop for a full Dyno. Symptoms -After everything was installed, turned the car over and it started but idled like hell, running stupidly rich, couldn't sustain idle or catch 1st. tried a couple times, figured the MAF was wired wrong. -Came back the next day, turned out the MAF was correct, so we tried again, and boom, instantly hydrolocked b/c of flooding the engine with fuel. MASSIVE flooding. popped the plugs, saw that there was a small piece of silicon from gasket maker on the plug electrode in cylinder #1, which was the flooded cylinder. thought maybe that was why #1 was flooding and pumped out the fuel, and put everything back, turned it over, locked right away. this time #6, and #3 i believe, point being that it was getting maybe half to one revolution before locking as the injectors are just DUMPING fuel into the cylinders. I mean i took out the plugs and covered the head with shop towels and turned it over and it was like niagra falls. (yes the pump fuse was removed and ecu unplugged) -We tried 4 different ECU combinations from stock, to just the rb20maf and 550cc tune (put on the 20 maf) to even one chip tuned for bigger injectors just to try to suppress all this fuel. -Nothing seems to change the result. it turns over for a fraction of a second (sometimes 4 secs if we really empty the cylinders) until BOOM, hydrolocked. So at this point i'm rulling out maf as i've swaped in ones that i know work, Injectors as i see it unlikely that all 6 are broken, and plugs for the same reason. I also double checked the resistance on the injectors too. My best guess is a wiring issue with the throttle position sensor that telling the injectors the throttle is open when its closed. I'll look into that and dbl check my voltage levels on the ingnition pack that tell the packs to fire. (anyone know where i can find those voltage specs?) Ideas guys?? Please... i'm so close to having a ridiculously fast skyrocket here, its killing me.

interested in boost gauge and clutch, please post a pic or PM me one.

comon guys, i really need some of this stuff