PM-R33

As soon as 10 people are gathered PSI parts will start manufacturing them as that is the minimum required. So there kind of isn't a date as such....is that cool? If not I can put a date up, but we only need two people anyway so it would be a safe bet it would be filled this week.

Thanks guys, appreciate it

Forward facing plenum FTW! 10 minute plug changes. I do mine every 5000km service just because it's easy and cheap and i'm a fussy prick.

Nah like I said, just don't try and run low boost and you will be fine, stop being soft. 20psi is the new black. Think of which situation is more likely going to get you laid: SITUATION 1 16yo girl: "So how much boost you running hun?" You: "Ohh, umm, i'm just running like 12psi, sometimes I run 13psi if it's a bit cold..." 16yo girl: "......." *Get's out of car and jumps into a VL turbo that has a dose pipe* SITUATION 2 16yo girl: "So how much boost you running hun?" You: "20psi BITCH!" 16yo girl: *Starts undoing your belt* I rest my case.

Hence it's easier to just run 18-20psi all day everyday like mine lol.

Sweet man, just two more people needed! BUY LIST 1. PMR33 2. EIRESGAUS 3. NA BEAST 4. DELLJIT 5. SSXRICHO 6. ONEDGE 7. 75COUPE 8. AHH 33 S2 9. ....... 10. .......

Personally I find with mine that the tune plays a big role in how much boost it runs. When my tune was crap running rich it would overboost hardcore (Could barely keep it under 20psi). I've been slowly tuning my own car with the Vipec and tuned it nicely on about 1bar with the boost controller disconnected (just running actuator) without boost issues. Next im doing the high boost tune for it. There is a lot of threads about GT-RS's overboosting a lot, personally I think the internal gate in them is shit when trying to run low boost.

First thing to do would be to check the timing belt. The second thing would be to chuck some one elses CAS on and then some one elses AFM. Get the easy shit checked first.

You have an adjustable actuator. If you want more boost just shorten the damn rod. Ask any good tuner regarding internal wastegates, you adjust the rod to get as close as possible to your desired boost level and then just use the boost controller to keep the gate shut (gain) as long as possible without spiking to get the boost curve as flat as possible. Once again, go back to the tuner and talk to them about it!

How has no one mentioned the fact he thinks he owns a R34 GTST?

You've obviously missed the point completely.

Righteo so you can tell you have boost control problems. It's ramping up fairly nicely to 16-16.5psi but then falling over to about 12.5-13psi. But either way even on around 13-14psi it should be making quite a lot more power. You can't "feel" boost pressure. You could be running 20psi but still make crap power and have a slow car if something is wrong. If the numbers say HP, it's in HP, simple as that. You can switch everything on the dyno graph to different measurements, a lot of people like using HP. A stock R33's engine is rated at 183kw, not at the wheels. Like I said, take it back and discuss it with them. They are the ones doing the work, if you aint happy, tell them.

Ok, so 193kw@16psi is obviously telling you something is very wrong as you can see by SoFreshSoClean's post you should be around the 250kw mark and I was about the same on that boost level. Start by checking the obvious things: Collapsed cat, skipped tooth on timing belt, CAS failing etc. Best bet, take it back to your tuner and discuss it with him.

Not sure what I am ment to be remembering? So wait, what? So what boost is it running? You are all over the place on qouting the boost it is running. I aint assuming anything. I have a GT-RS and therefore know that it has a 1 bar adjustable actuator. That aint rated at the wheels. The average figure for a GT-RS is around 250-260rwkw. Most I pushed out of mine on the shithouse Microtech was mid 260's without nitrous. Dude just post up the dyno graph otherwise no one can help.

You won't hit any where near 300kw on the GT-RS unless you use nitrous like me lol. Also are you sure it is running on 10psi? The stock HKS actuator is a 1 bar one.

Yeah let me know how you go. I'm not sure if I will be able to hear the clutch engaging or disengaging because the car is so bullshit loud. I will try though.

Yep received every ones fine ETA is they will get sent out to me mid next week.

This shoudn't really effect anything as it is just settings of under what conditions to disengage the aircon clutch. In this case when TPS is above 90%. I still need to take it for a drive tomorrow to make sure the aircon is working, as idling in the garage I couldn't really tell if it was cold and my aircon aint that cold anymore so it's hard to tell. But ECU wise it seems to be setup correctly.

Righteo well I fixed mine. Appeared to have been a polarity issue within in the settings of the DI4. I put in the new firmware and changed the "ON LEVEL" from the factory set "HIGH" to "LOW" and now it functions as normally. This is with the aircon switched on: And obviously when I switch it off the clutch and aircon request go to OFF. So appears all good now. I wonder why it is set wrong though?

GTR rods, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, ACL bearings.

Yeah mine is a bit strange. I'm downloading the latest firmware/software for it (I didn't realise there was a new one this month) so I'll see if that fixes anything. Wouldn't mind some input from Trent or Anthony *hint hint *

Yeah I feel like I keep constantly telling it to people as well.

Sorry the group buy has now closed as the money was transferred today. Also there is no listing for stageas however the clutch line would probably be the same as a GTR one? I dunno.

Righteo so I think we have a similar problem as I now know why my Aircon aint working; it is the Vipec. With the car on ignition and aircon switched off my values are as follows: DI4: Aircon Request OFF AUX3: Aircon Clutch OFF With the car on ignition and aircon switched on my values are as follows: DI4: Aircon Request ON AUX3: Aircon Clutch OFF So far so good. However this is where the problem lies: When the car is switched on and aircon switched off my values are as follows: DI4: Aircon Request ON AUX3: Aircon Clutch ON When the car is switched on and aircon switched on my values are as follows: DI4: Aircon Request OFF AUX3: Aircon Clutch OFF So what is up with that. Is this the same problem as they mention the R34 having? Obviously the reason the aircon aint working is when I switch it on, the ECU is switching the aircon clutch OFF. But with the aircon switched OFF, the aircon clutch in ON?! I have not touched any aircon values on the Vipec (same as the basemap) and it all seems to be setup correctly in the AUX3 and DI4 so what's the go?