PM-R33

No display unit with that price, just sensor and controller.

If you are into Skylines this book is a good read. Has a lot of interesting things on the design/engineering of the Skyline and covers all models.

Righteo every one should have got the PM's so start sending that money through as soon as you can and I will put the order through next week. If people still want in just let me know ASAP, there's still a few spots left.

I'm running a mates 2J1 at the moment and replacing it with my 2J2 once it gets here. Pretty happy with how it performs.

How on earth could you think any of those cars are real Seriously dude.

Payments have been coming through from all you guys that have messaged me. Cheers for that. I will continue sending every one my bank account details; sorry about how long that is taking, the 5 minute PM thing is killing me!

That is correct, there will be two packages, one with just the headlights (so you supply your own HID kit) and the other with the headlights and a high quality low beam Bosch HID kit. Spinto can give more technical details on the HID kit he will be supplying. No doubt it is a lot better than what most of us would be using. Most people I know don't run HID's in the high beam due to a number of reasons (I edited my post above with more information so have a read of that again since I explain the whole issues with high beam HID's.) But yes if you went for a HID kit in the high beam aswell you would need two full kits, so 4 bulbs and 4 ballasts (also makes it quite hard to fit everything ) EDIT: Currently our headlights use a H1 low beam bulb, however I am not sure if the Bosch projectors that will be used in this aftermarket headlight use a H1 bulb. This means people like myself would still need to change HID bulbs if they are indeed different. I'll find this out so we know.

From factory our cars have two reflectors in the headlight, both are made for a normal halogen type bulbs. Putting HID bulbs into these is not the best due to the lights focal point not being designed for a HID bulb. This is usually what people talk about with HIDs blinding other drivers from glare. With a bit of adjustment of the headlight you can get them ok though and really it aint that bad. Anyway moving on. What we shall be doing in this aftermarket headlight is replacing the low beam reflector with a projector made for a HID bulb so we get good light output. You will have a choice of buying the headlight with no HID bulbs or with Bosch HID bulbs which are considered one of the better brands when it comes to HID's. (To people that don't know anything about HID's a normal halogen bulb is just that, a bulb that gets 12V and a filament creates light. A HID uses a ballast to convert the 12V into a few thousand volts - think of it as a voltage amplifier - which is then put into a xenon filled HID bulb. Read this for more info as I want to try and keep this as simple as I can for everyone to understand. It really is quite amazing how they work.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensit...discharge_lamps For the high beam, a normal halogen bulb will still be used in the factory projector. Most cars from factory do not have HID's in the highbeam unless they have bi-xenon headlights. Bi-xenon headlights is when one projector is used for high and low beam. This is done by a shield covering a section of the projector for low beam and then moving away when high beam is switched on. This is done so that the projector remains switched on at all times. This is due to a safety issue as when you flick a HID on, it takes some time for it to warm up and produce a good light output. In our Skylines since the low beam is switched off when the high beam is activated, having a HID in the high beam would cause a moment of no/low light when switching from low beam to high beam. There is other reasons aswell and a lot of technical information that can be found in that wiki link or on the net. Hopefully that explains it a bit more and covers the basics. The purpose of this wasn't so much the whole HID thing but to get a nice headlight replacement with the bonus of having a headlight made for HID's.

I would so be keen on something like this if I was in Sydney. I think the price is very fair mate

Yeah I don't see why they wouldn't do that option aswell. Yep Dave I thought of you regarding the HID's I'll just use my kit I have from you for the time being as it is still going strong, maybe one day upgrade to something a bit more higher end.

Actually I think you are right, only the RB20E was available...even gayer lol. I swear I remember reading they were not approved to bring into the country but some still got in.

Hahaha all good man

So .18 higher at every voltage? Vipec lists the following for the factory map: 6V - 3.2ms 7V - 2.5ms 8V - 1.9ms 9V - 1.5ms 10V - 1.25ms 11V - 1.11ms 12V - 0.945ms 13V - 0.87ms 14V - 0.743ms 15V - 0.6ms

Is it a Dualshock3 though?

Speaking of lag times, how on earth do you find the correct injector latency for different voltages other than mindless google searching? I tried looking for the Nismo 555cc and I found an old thread on here that had the latency time but at what voltage I have no idea and didn't have any listings for the other voltages. My Vipec is still on that factory injector latency and seems to run fine, but if the Nismos are a bit different i'd like to have it perfect

Ok a good update. Pricing for a rough idea will try to be between $1000-$2000 (this would be without the Bosch HID kit - so option 1 which I listed previously). Turn around time will be around 1 to 1.5 weeks for a pair of headlights and for this group buy they will do 2-3 pairs at one time.

You don't need to use Jap brand parts for servicing, he ment with aftermarket upgrades.

Same interior (couple of small differences). Have a look through carsales for average prices.

There is a thread dedicated to engine bay photos here in the cosmetic section, just look through the pics for ideas I guess.

What you have pictured is a R33 GTST series II interior, correct. All the dials are factory black, that one has an aftermarket white faced dash in it. You have wrote it right there. R33 is the model of the Skyline. In that model there were four options, the non turbo GTS, the turbo GTST (hence the T for turbo), the GTS4 (non turbo AWD) and the GTR (twin turbo AWD). The series II is just the later year model, hence the reference to "series II". It is fairly basic stuff that you can find on wikipedia or a quick google search or a search on these forums. Since you are looking for a first car I'll assume you are a P plater and therefore you can not drive a turbo car so your options are a GTS or GTS4 in the R33 Skyline.

Developed by Nismo for group A racing. 24U N1 block with improved channels Balanced crank for high rpm as the length of a RB crank develops bad harmonics at high revs Better pistons and rings N1 oil pump and water pump N1 turbos and N1 camshafts And probably a couple of other things I have forgotten about. So quite a bit.

Haha all good man.

It's just the black sleeve that has the wording FMVSS-106 on it at the end of each brake line, that's it (you all have them as I checked each kit to make sure). Part of ADR is to have that sleeve on there but it isn't just that sleeve that makes it legal, it's the way the entire lines are constructed. I went over it a bit in the old group buy thread but at the end of the day I am only limited to my own research I have done on the subject, if any one wishes more technical information about them just call Hel Australia or Hel UK.

Stunning condition.

R33's were available with a RB20 when they first came out but are "rare" as no one wanted them. Same with R34's with RB20's. Unlucky.