PM-R33

If you can drive a Skyline well they might do a mid 14. Most completely standard will do low 15's, high 14's.

I havn't actually driven the car yet. I did the brake fluid yesterday and I figured while all the wheels were off i'd give them a good clean on the inside. I'll try to have it back together by the weekend and see how the brakes feel. That's exactly right. It's mainly an age thing, our brake lines are old and likely to expand a bit under heavy braking (or burst). Plus the benefit of having a life time warranty on them and I wanted to replace all my brake fluid so figured for the extra $100 off bucks might aswell replace the brake lines.

Correct. Here is where I explained the ADR thing: You can also view on Hels website regarding the ADR sleeves at the bottom of this link: http://www.helperformance.com.au/catalogue/brake-lines.htm These sleeves are what held us up for so long.

Huh I don't get what you mean, yours has a label that says "Not ADR approved"? Where?

Hmm interesting, might be something to look into if making it lock via TPS is still not enough.

I didn't think you could replace the centre in them with for example a Nismo 1.5 way etc? I also thought you couldn't shim them?

Ok cheers Paul I will have to have a play around with the setup once the Vipec comes. I just want that rear diff locking as best as it can and preferably prior to breaking traction.

How long does it take for the pressure to build up to that error point with the ALSD running at 100%? Yeah I try and bleed mine every few months nowadays, it's probably my tyres that are letting me down now.

I'm running stock gears on my Poncams so yes.

Yeah see my higher spring rates, not the best tyres and the ALSD acting up some times is to blame. Hence I want to raise the front a bit more to trasnfer a bit more weight onto the rear wheels (at the moment it is still slightly pointed down in the front), get some semi decent tyres in a higher profile and I'm thinking about trying to rig up the ALSD to activate through a Vipec on TPS aswell as the wheel speed sensors; as in when TPS above 80% or so lock up the diff instead of waiting for it to break traction first. I'm really hoping this will help a lot more, kind of like your ALSD being activated on a switch to over ride it.

Silly question but you aren't trying to put an aftermarket cam gear onto an inlet Poncam are you? Because you can't since it is made for VCT. I know you said exhaust cam gear but I thought I would double check.

A 250rwkw Skyline will flog a standard XR6T (my mate has a sedan), hell my mates standard turbo Supra pulls away from it. I've raced a 300+rwkw BA XR6T sedan and it was fairly even. They really aren't as fast as people make them out to be, they are fairly heavy and the utes have worse traction problems than Skylines have. But yeah, they do make good power very, very easily. But what do you expect from a 4L GT35? That's one thing I really want to do to my car over the next few years is to setup up the suspension/tyre/diff combination for a hell of a lot more traction as to me this is the Achilles Heel to most GTSTs with power.

Yep that is correct.

Have you got a catch can? Is it hooked up incorrectly?

I've been looking at the Tech Edge 2J2 (New version of the 2J1) to go with the Vipec. Heard good things. My mate had a lot of problems with the LC1 aswell. There were a couple of threads floating around regarding them.

One thing that I will mention; please, make sure all bolts are secured properly and check over them after a bit of a drive. Take it easy on the first drive just incase something goes wrong and you don't end up loosing all braking force. In case something does go wrong remember you can use your hand brake and engine braking to slow down. The install is fairly easy over all and as long as you are handy with a spanner give it a go. Taking your time it is only a few hour job from start to finish, so put aside an afternoon to give it a go. However if you don't feel confident doing something like this take it to a mechanic!

Ah ok cheers for clearing that up. So in reality you want to run the wideband a bit downwards of the exhaust housing; what kind of distance are we talking?

Thanks guys Looks like every one would have received theirs today which is good.

Here's mine, gives you a rough idea of what the blue would look like with the Tomei plate. I still have to get and modify a front RB26 timing cover.

Simple question but one I can't get a straight forward answer to. When hooking up a wideband onto a Vipec/Link, can you simply replace the factory narrowband with the wideband? Will the wideband do the job of a narrowband aswell? As in can you set it to trim out fuel on cruise like a factory ECU and narrowband would? Because I always see a lot of photos of people's cars with two O2 sensors on a single dump pipe of what im guessing to be the factory O2 and then a wideband.

Here is the DIY guys http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...Li-t330303.html Glad you guys are starting to receive the kits!

Hmm I was thinking that. Hopefully that is the case. Anyway all you guys might receive the kits tomorrow, so start letting me know if they arrive successfully

I found the rears a lot easier to install than the fronts. Having said that I did have a seized bolt on the front which made it a pain. Anyway they are all done on my car I just have to bleed the brakes tomorrow. I wrote up the whole DIY and uplaoded all the pictures (took me an hour and a half), posted the topic up in the DIY section and the f**king thing didn't post! So that's just bloody great. Can't you make topics in the DIY section or something? Thankfully I saved all the text into Word but I still have to upload all the photos again which is a pain in the ass. Anyway I'll try again tomorrow or something.

Here is a step by step DIY install for the Hel braided brake lines for a R33 GTST Skyline. The other models are very similar. Items required Rags Plastic container to catch old brake fluid Liquid thread paste/sealant New brake fluid WD40 Hammer Flat head screwdriver 10mm spanner 14mm spanner 17mm spanner 12mm socket and shifter Here are the braided brake lines as they come in the kit and opened up. As you will see you have two long lines for the front and two short lines for the rear. The fronts also have a movable mount along the line. The kit comes with four copper washers however for the R33 GTST I found there was no need for them as none of the fittings tighten up all the way to the end of the thread. Brake fluid will also be needed as you will lose all of your current brake fluid. FRONT After you have raised the car and taken the wheels off we can begin the install. I started with the drivers side front. As you can see this is what the standard rubber brake line looks like on the front of the vehicle. Spray all the fittings with WD40 and let is soak a bit to loosen up all the mounts. Start by removing the mounting block half way along the lines with a 10mm spanner. Next remove the rubber brake line from the hard line on the inside of the wheel arch with a 10mm spanner. NOTE: Brake fluid will go everywhere so make sure you have a rag handy and possibly a container to catch all the fluid. You can now slip out the rubber line from the bracket holding it on the wheel arch and place a container to capture all the fluid that will come out. The bracket itself can now be removed with a 12mm socket on the two bolts. Next we can see the rest of the brake line as it comes into the brake calliper. Notice the rubber line finishes at a mounting bracket and then joins into a hard line that goes into the calliper itself. Once again spray everything with WD40. Use a 10mm spanner to remove the hard line from the calliper and also to remove the hard line from the rubber line. Next you can remove the bracket with a 12mm socket. Here you can see the entire rubber hard line and brackets removed from the vehicle. The next step is to take off the brackets. This can be done with a hammer and flat head screwdriver and gently tapping the clip off the bracket as seen in the photo. Do this to both brackets. Now everything is removed. NOTE: One of my bolts was seized in the calliper and extremely difficult to remove and I ended up rounding the nut off as seen in the photo, do not do this. I suggest using a special spanner as seen below instead of a normal open ended spanner to get a bit more grip on bolts and not do what i did... I eventually got the bolt out though. Here we can see the difference between the factory brake line and the Hel braided item. The next step is to put the bracket that goes onto the brake calliper on first. Simply use the hammer to tap the clip back onto the bracket on the rubber mount. There is a bit of a grove where the clip will go into. Only do one at this stage so you can move the line around easier. We can now start to install the brake line onto the car. Apply some sealant onto the end of the thread (I used a liquid/gel thread sealant, don’t use a heavy duty Loctite or something) and begin to rotate the line into the calliper and tighten it with a 14mm spanner. This side must be done first as the fitting on this line does not rotate like the other side does. Next mount the bracket back onto the calliper and run the rest of the line underneath everything back up towards where the other bracket goes. Slip the remaining bracket back onto the line and once again gently tap the clip in with a hammer to lock it all together. Apply some thread sealant onto the thread and mount it back onto the hard line. Use the 10mm spanner to rotate the top of the bolt and a 17mm spanner to hold the top of the braided brake line to stop it from spinning. Now remount the bracket onto the inside of the wheel arch. As you can see even with the washer in place, the thread doesn’t tighten all the way to the end, so the washer isn’t really needed on either side. This was the case on my car, perhaps others will be different. You will notice the line is not mounted onto the middle stud and does hang loose a bit. I tested it out by rotating the front wheels and it doesn’t really come close to touching anything. If in doubt you can ziptie or mount it onto the protruding stud, I will do some driving around and check it but it should be fine the way it is. That is all for the front, the finished product will look like this. Now simply repeat the same steps on the other side and then move to the rear. REAR The rear is a bit easier than the front I found. Once again spray all the fittings with WD40 and let it soak in for a couple of minutes. This is what the rear lines will look like. Now use a 10mm spanner to remove the hard line from the factory brake line on the inside of the wheel arch as you did on the front. Once again get some rags ready to clean up all the brake fluid. As you can see the rear is a bit different as the bracket that holds the brake line onto the inside of the wheel arch can not be removed. Instead use a screwdriver to remove the clip as demonstrated in the picture. It is a bit trickier with it still on the car (hence why on the front I choose to remove it from the vehicle) but with a bit of force it will come off (watch your knuckles here!). Now simply repeat the process as on the front by removing the hard line from the calliper and the middle mounting block. Here is the factory rear line next to the Hel braided line. Note: This next choice is up to you. The bracket that mounts the middle mounting block on is not needed for the Hel braided brake line. You can leave it on or remove the two bolts and the bracket, I choose to remove it (weight saving!). Here you can see bracket and the line. Now you can begin to install the Hel braided brake line. Once again apply some sealant onto the thread that goes into the calliper and mount it in place. You can see in the photo that once again the copper washer is not needed. Now apply some sealant to the other end of the line and begin installing it back on the hard line on the wheel arch the same way as you did the front. Simply tap the clip back onto the bracket and you are done! Here is everything factory that was removed from the vehicle. As you can see there were a lot of bolts and brackets no longer needed. All up there is a probably a weight saving of maybe a bit over half a kilo So there you go, fairly simple and straight forward as long as you take your time and don’t have seized bolts. Now refill your brake fluid and have the crappy job of bleeding all the air out of your brakes. Cheers Phil

Whether engine torque is related to cylinder CC. Ie. would a 2L 4 cylinder have the same torque as a 2L 6 cylinder given that everything else remained the same. It is a very interesting subject and something I have quite often thought about in the past. We must think about this purely from a mechanical point of view and think about how much energy is released and transferred per cylinder, whether a fewer amount of larger volumes (2L 4 cylinder) creates more/same/less energy than a greater amount of smaller volumes (2L 6 cylinder). I think the fewer amount of larger volumes would create more energy due to not as much being transferred/lost. The more cylinders you have, the more energy would be lost in heat, noise, friction etc. So if you had a 2L 10 cylinder there would be a lot more energy lost throughout the cylinders than a 2L 2 cylinder. I will have a better think about this over night and see whether we can get some calculations happening with the knowledge of air density/volume, estimated energy release from petrol, compression ratio etc.