PM-R33

Hahaha good old google

Thanks for that. I thought the RB (non GTR AWD extras) weighed about the 250kg mark without trans.

You can drop it down a bit. Just replace the rear hanger with something that sits lower. My rear muffler ended up touching the rear bar when i did the whiteline pineapples and melted a bit of it. Can't really see it though. Honestly as long as it aint "touching" i wouldn't worry about it to much and if it does melt a bit just do what Hamish said and cut it.

5.5L Pretty sure it is like 4.5L - 5.0L depending how you drain it (warm, cold, vacuum drain, gravity drain etc).

Lol you and your sound bad thing. Why do they sound bad? When they are open they are just a straight 3" pipe. I admit i have only heard one rear muffler on my mates skyline and it is pretty quite even when fully open so i dont get why they sound bad. With mine fully open it just sounds like every other loud/lumpy RB with cams and no "real" mufflers. EDIT: Here, this is a video my mate quickly made one afternoon about 6 months ago and 2 minutes into it you can hear my car.

Yeah i was a bit confused by this after having read it a few times now. Is it going on a VG30 or on a RB25 because the post and the thread title contradict each other.

There is a few threads about them, just search "Varex". When it is closed it runs like dogs balls but it does its job and makes the car silent when your in "sticky situations". With it open its pretty fine. Maybe a slight loss of power but nothing you can notice too much. Havnt dynoed mine with the Varex. Mine is just a removable universal muffler under the car, not a rear cannon/muffler.

Sell the turbo and get something more suited. That turbo is WAY to large for a RB25 no matter what any one says. Not to mention your current setup isn't suited for it what so ever. Surely this has to be a joke.

Paul is right, the car has to be in gear when giving it throttle if you want to use the multimeter on it (hold clutch in, give it revs). This is probably why you aint seeing anything on the multimeter, because you are revving it in neutral.

I'm glad the radiator turned out ok Georgie, looks good

The main thing is it didn't make it legal, so he might aswell had been driving it with a turbo on it, would have been the same outcome if a switched on cop dealt with it.

Different engine and setup i know, but my car with poncams has a lot less idle vacuum than it did without the cams. Sits at about -40kpa to -45kpa on idle.

Wow very unfortunate man. What filters were on there?

Yes a proper tune compared to running it on the stock ECU will definetely make the turbo make more power throughout the rev range and in turn make it more responsive and better to drive.

Ah ok my bad, forgot about the new EVC-S. You just wrote EVS-S, so i thought you mucked up the last two letters. All good.

Are you sure? Thats a pretty huge looking exhaust housing/compressor housing for 500HP...

You mean the EVC-5.

Why would you? It would run like crap, laggy as hell and the stock ECU wouldn't know what is going on so it would run rich and pull timing. Not to mention you run the risk if something goes wrong and boost spikes to a proper amount for it that it can run efficiently (18+psi) you risk maxing out the injectors, maxing out the fuel pump, hitting airflow cut etc. Not saying it's going to kill something instantly but all in all its just not a good combination. Obviously you can run it like that if you choose, hell you could run a T51R on the stock setup on 4psi, but is it going to be well setup and safe, no it is not. I ran my plenum and turbo upgrade on the stock ECU and it ran ok, did it run nicely and make power, no it did not and it's a fairly small turbo compared to a GT35, which the OP's number aint, it looks to be much larger atleast housing wise.

You can buy the little Mr Funnels (i actually saw them on the shelf today, was thinking about buying one). Could keep it in the boot and use it at the servos. I might buy one and give it a go just to see if it picks up anything.

Get one of these. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=300&page=1 I looked around for a while to see what radiator to get. I wanted something that fitted perfectly retaining the factory shroud, something that looked good and was larger than factory. It came down to a couple of Jap Brand ones which were all around the $1000+ mark, a PWR one which was similar price range or the Just Jap one which obviously wasn't as good quality but substantially cheaper. At the end of the day i got the Just Jap one and am glad i made the descision. Fits perfectly, looks great, keeps temps at bay at came with a warranty. The money i saved over the $1000 ones was better spent elsewhere. Obviously if money aint an issue the PWR/Jap brands would be choice. Out of all the cheap ones i believe the Cooling Pro ones are the better ones and a lot better quality than the $200 ebay ones.

Hmm that LS1 block is a lot heavier than i thought considering an entire LS1 is around 50kg lighter than an RB25.

Harder power? Do you even understand the advantages of the VCT? It is to make good low down power for a street car that 99% of its time is starting and stopping and therefore in a rev range of 1000-4000rpm. Most setups aren't making peak boost up until the high point of this rev range if not even furthur past this point, which is where the VCT switches off anyway. Therefore you can't add more boost. If i told you to make more power at 2500rpm on your car could you simply "add more boost and fuel" if your car isn't even on boost yet? No you couldn't.

Nowadays you can pick up a brand new N1 block for under $3000 so the price difference is still quite substantial. But like you have said, the weight difference is the main advantage, how much the weight difference is, is still unclear. With the light weight block, light weight crank and light internals you could definetely get a lot of the weight from out the front. As i said earlier 20-30kg would be great but if a RB block is 54kg, than that 30kg might be pushing it. Whether this is all worth the coin i suppose is up to the companies running these cars.

You can buy items such as these that seperate the water from the fuel due to as others have said, water being heavier than fuel. http://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Home.html Always wanted to try one up here. We get a lot of rain up here in the summer seaon (half the town is flooded at the moment) and im sure a lot of water would get into the underground tanks in some of the servos.

Do we have evidence that they are $11,000 or is this guy just pulling our leg?