PM-R33

Hahaha Has any one else got any air intake temperature readings/graphs to compare to mine? Possibly with a decent airbox setup? Honestly compared to a hot day and a nice cool night mine feels like two different cars. Similar to the difference with driving by yourself or three other people in the car.

Just something to add regarding heat soak and intake temperatutes to give you a more real world idea. Lately i've been keeping records of my intake temperatures during different types of driving and night/day temperatures. (temperature sensor for the microtech in the intake pipe at the pod filter). The filter is just a pod sitting in the engine bay like most of our cars. During a hot day like today in Townsville the car at 60km/h will have 38-40 degree intake temps (not too bad), at 80km/h around 35-38 degrees. However, once i pull up at a traffic light it will climb one degree nearly every second. After a few minutes sitting at a set of lights it will reach 70-80 degree intake temps. When people talk about intake temps for every 10 degrees being a few percent of power loss, you start to see why the cars run so shit on a hot day. At night time on a fairly warm night at the same conditions it will be about 30-35 degrees at 60km/h, 25-30 degrees at 80km/h and a peak of about 50-55. On winters night (not that you really call Townsville winter a proper Winter) i see about 20-25 degrees at 60km/h, 15-20 degrees at 80km/h and a maximum of about 35 in traffic. So you can see, huge differences just in intake temps at the filter. Lowest i have seen it is in the single digits on a winter night, but the car was doing a decent speed... Due to this i've now made an all right airbox from aluminium and got some heatproof matting from clark rubber to insulate the inside. Ill then once again watch the intake temps to see how it alters it. (Clark rubber said the insulation blocks out 80-90% of heat, so we'll see how true that is). Just something to think about

If those Defi gauges were the white faced ones i'd buy them straight away Good luck with the sale buddy.

Yeah it's an ALSD, easy way to tell is all the cooling ribs on the diff itself, and then the hydraulic lines running to it. Yeah there is ment to be two ECU's in the boot, one on top of each other. One of your's is missing and the other ECU is just sitting at the back of the boot there. There's a lot of wires and shit there, i got a feeling some one had an amplifier or something sitting there and took the ECU out. Personally if i was in your situation, i would rip all the ALSD shit out, buy a normal GTST diff and put a 1.5 way in there. The ALSD is more drama than it is worth. Plus you'll save a fair bit of weight by doing it aswell. Your call.

Bahaha thats awesome. Always in america, always.

Wow that sucks. Some one has ripped out all the electrics (very dodgy job by the looks of it). That would be why it aint working. Im asuming when you put your key onto ignition the ALSD light and SLIP light don't light up either?

Hahaha yeah i remember those. Surely those were just jokes though.

Bahahahahahaha! Also, some one mentioned a guy flushed his engine with water, any one got a link, i gotta see that thread lol. How some people that stupid manage to survive till adult hood is beyond me.

Very sad and freaky hearing that 911 call of the family that died, to my understanding the car had a push start ignition system no? So perhaps in the panic they were just pushing the button, not realising you have to hold it down or something? Still, if you had the time to make a phone call, surely you could do something about it. I just can't imagine being in a situation like that and not being able to stop the car. Put it into neutral, or rip the hand brake, or pull some wires out from under the dash or ram it into something from the side to try and slow it down.

Something is wrong, either extremely high spring rated coilovers, old/bald tyres or a very bad rear suspension setup (camber etc.) There is no way a KKR430 on 10psi would break traction in third in a R33 unless the suspension/tyre setup was crap.

Yeah so can't wait for it

Less than $3k?!?!? You'd hope you got all that for less than 1.5k.

Yep.

Very nice mate, love it.

Hahaha! Seriously, the whole "BOV" and "dose" and "compressor surge" thing is probably the most misunderstood and misleading bunch of shit read about on the internet. I run a BOV on mine, but it is wound up that tight it hardly ever goes off unless im on full noise, which is the way i like it.

Haha i think some one with an R34 GTR is going to be hunting kevin down after reading this

Ahh good old BOV discussions, we should just have a section on SAU dedicated to BOV's considering the same topic gets discussed on a daily basis and ends up with people arguing whether compressor surge is bad or not.

Very nice

"Compressor surge is the sound of pressure forcing to spin your turbo in the other direction". Good to see they know what they are talking about

I never said the numbers represent directly how fast the oil heats up. I said they represent the viscosity. A factor of different viscosity's is the relationship they have with heat and heat transfer coefficients. An engine wears the most when it isn't at operating temperaute. Coolant and oil has the main influences with how long the car takes to get to operating temperature (along with other things of course). A high viscosity oil will take longer to get to the same temperature as low viscosity oil assuming all other variables are the same due to this. Run a high viscosity oil in a sub-zero temperature and see how long it takes to thin out. You saying that a 20W50 and a 0W30 will both take the same time to reach 80 degrees?

Do you mean tar or do you mean tyre shine from the tyres? Either way just use some pre wax cleaner/tar remover/wax and grease remover and it'll get it off.

You gotta ask yourself, what do you find boring about it? Not usable power? Doesn't feel fast anymore? Are you over the car itself and not the power? I for one can't understand how a 340rwkw skyline could be boring unless the power delivery was shit.

Yeah that Autoglym stuff is great on dark colours, really brings the depth of the colour back. I know what you mean about the swirl marks, i've detailed a couple of mates cars before and dark colours and swirls is a pain. I find that doing a good thorough job a few times (say every couple of months or something) eventually gets rid of them.

Oh no doubt at a different pressure you could probably make water be 1000g/L. However at 1 atmosphere im pretty positive it doesn't reach it. Falls short at 999.97g/L or something. Come on, where are the chemical engineers on this forum to help us out

For a black car the best polish that i discovered was the Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine made for dark colours. Works well against swirl marks aswell. We use it on dads car. Down side is it's very expensive.