PM-R33

Simple two answers. Dont move the AFM, no idea why you are considering that. And no atmo bov will be quite.

Woops double post.

+1, thats absolutely amazing what he did. I can't beleive he stuck with it for 12 years. Such a shame he will never really get the credit he deserves for something like that. Such a huge amount of his life used and unfortunately most people will be like "hmmm cool" and continue on. I wonder how much he is trying to sell it for.

Ok this is a little bit tricky, i dont remember all the information regarding the original density defined by the metric system and why it was classed as such, but this is what i remember. Since water is such a special substance with it not following the same rules as other liquids it's density changes so much due to temperature. I beleive water never actually reaches 1000g/L. At room temparture (around 20-25 degrees) water's density is close to 998g/L. This is what is always used in physics calculations and what i have always used throughout uni. At around 4 degrees water is closest to 1000g/L at 999.9g/L, however since it is rare to have water at 4 degrees for certain calculations, it is always classed at room temperature. Obviously for calculations that don't need to be exact, people use 1000g/L. I beleive nowadays with the metric system water is classed as 1000g/L @ 4degrees celsius. Like i said there is a lot to water since it is so special and im sure there are a lot of other people that know more about this than me. The metric system is very interesting with how every single unit of measurement is based on something. The one that i find the most strange is the gram. It's the measurement of 1/1000 of a specific object which is kept in a sealed vault in France lol. I beleive it is the one of the only ones that isn't currently related to maths or the earth, however they are trying to change that so it is (like 1m was originally defined as 1/10mil of the distance between the north pole and the equator through Paris haha. They later changed that though).

There is a lot to it and if you have a look at the first handful of pages in the oil thread in general maintenance it covers most of it. In lamans terms which i used to explain to customers that didn't know much about oils, the first number is the viscosity of the oil when cold and the second number represents the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature. An oil thins as it gets hotter, obviously the thinner it gets the less it protects to a certain degree. Therefore you want an oil that is quick to warm up, represented by a low first number, and then an oil which won't thin out too much as it gets hotter, represented by the second number. So comparing a 5W-30 to a 20W50: The 5W-30 will be a lot quicker to warm up than the 20W50. The 20W50 will take a lot more heat to thin out than the 5W30. Obviously different climates and different driving conditions require different oils. You wouldnt run a 20W50 on a car that runs in extremely cold climates as it would never warm up. There is a lot more to it as far as SAE ratings go and what temperature certain oils are tested at depending on their group and other things. Hope that helps you out some what.

I used to sell car care products at Autobarn so i used a wide variety of products until i found the ones i liked best. Every one has different preferences, budgets and how long they want to spend on the car so it changes from each individual. I also used slightly different products on my white car then what we used on the old mans black Monaro, however this was mainly with waxes and polishes. For getting rid of wax and contaminents in the paint, wash the car first with something like Meguiars Soft Wash/Gold Class (the shampoo you use isn't really important for this stage due to you trying to get rid of everything on the paint first instead of keeping the wax on there and giving it a shine again). Once the car is washed well use a pre-wax cleaner. I find the Mothers pre-wax cleaner to be very good due to its easy application and fairly good price. http://www.mothers.com/02_products/07100.html This will get rid of most of the contaminents in the paint, if however you want to do a more thorough job than use a clay bar afterwards paying a lot of attention to the roof and bonnet since this sees the most crap built up on it. Personally i use the Mothers clay bar or the Bowdens one due to them being a light colour so you can tell when they start to get dirty and need replacement. Then your ready for the wax of your choice. Use a synthetic wax if you want a good shine/depth to the colour (mainly for darker cars, mine being white means its hard to get a depth in the paint compared to dads black) or use a natural Carnauba wax if you want long lasting protection. Personally i like the natural Carnauba waxes due to the harsh sun we have up here, even though they are a little harder to apply then a synthetic wax such as the Meguiars Tech Wax. With all this done the car's paint should feel like glass and a cloth should slide off of it when dropped on the car's surface. Goodluck

I think its 5 sprints per day over 2 days and its about 7.5km up the hill.

Good stuff, impressive time. I saw you drive past me on university road the morning of the hill climb on my way to work. I so wanted to come see you race but couldn't get the day off. Never seen a R35 in real life and saw you coming and was like "WTF is that?" haha. You going to be back next year?

Under certain conditions they will spike, just the lag it takes to open the wastegate and for the exhaust gases to redirect, not much you can do about it. Say im in second gear half throttle at 4000rpm and then put my foot down mine spikes to about 22-23psi and then settles back to a bit under 20. As long as it doesnt spike a ridicolous amount for too long i wouldnt worry about it. Its heat generated from high boost that will kill your stock turbo(s), a little spike hear and there won't kill anything.

Very nice

Damnit, good price man, wish i had seen this earlier

You mean carbon door inserts (if so from where, i've never seen them), or do you mean carbon door skins? I think comparing a few bucks worth of vinyl to cover the factory carpet door inserts to $1000+ for full door skins is a bit of a stretch...

Funny thing is i worked at one part time during uni while doing Engineering and i think i know a thing or two about cars Two sides to every story, for every idiot that you think works at one, there are 10 other idiots that own skylines that come into Autobarn that don't know the difference between a wastegate and a blow off valve. So where does that put you?

Carbon intake i hear ay.....keep us posted

I didnt see nothing

Yeah i was right, voltage stabilizer. This is the one i have on my car, got it dirt cheap and needed to fix an earting problem so got it. http://www.nengun.com/pivot/raizin-volt-stabilizer-blue

Show a pic of where all the wiring is going. Looks like an earthing kit with a voltage stabilizer, i have a similar Pivot one on mine.

+1 Subscribed, let us know what happens, even if you have to PM us to keep it off the forums

On 14psi i would think anywhere from 170-180rwkw depending on the condition of the engine and depending how the SAFC is setup.

The fact you have a picture of a naked dragon on a stripper pole scares me some what...

We did my interior door insert with that. Looks allright.

Change the coolant and bleed it well.

If some one says they want a certain amount of power, i think we need to assume it is on 98 octane. It is a bit pointless telling some one they can make the power on "x" turbo, they go an buy it, try to make the power and can't. Then when they come back you say "oh sorry, i ment it would make that power on C16, E85, Nitrous..." etc. I also wouldn't classify E85 as pump gas in Oz.

Lol good luck.

Yeah im pretty certain in QLD for registration cages have to be bolted in only and not welded. I'm looking into this for next year aswell as i want a registrable half cage that is cams approved.