PM-R33

So why not just hold off with doing it down the track? Whats the point of high mounting it now, spending a few hundred dollars trying to get it mounted (cooler piping, dump pipe, lines, gaskets, labour) losing performance, having it looking stupid and then spending more money down the track on the way you originally wanted? But to answer your original question of course you don't need a "taller" bonnet, only time you would have an issue is with a massive truck turbo, a poorly designed custom manifold or a twin cam RB30.

Can you please tell us why you are high mounting it? There is no benefit what so ever in doing it. If anything you will make it slightly laggier and im assuming you are using a cheap ebay spec stainless steel manifold which will crack.

Well the GTST ones aren't too flash for high boost and they do have a little hole in them that leaks off air a bit. People weld this up and then supposibly its fine for high boost. No idea why it is there from factory, maybe some one else can explain that. Perhaps a safety for a boost spike so it bleeds it off? I believe the GTR ones don't have this hole hence why they hold higher boost fine.

PM sent mate.

Bahahhahahahahahhahahaha

Jesus for $10 that's an absolute bargain. The GTR bov's don't leak a bit of air out through a tiny hole like the GTST ones do from what i remember, could be wrong though.

Yep definetely check the rear toe with an allignment as it will be out slightly. With the HICAS gone the car does get a lot more predictable when pushed hard.

If you got a set of GTR bovs for under $50 thats pretty damn good.

Do they make anything else? Can you get them to make other things in carbon? Personally im holding out on the PSI parts full length cooling plate. However these are a very good price so you shouldn't have drama getting 10 people.

Strangely enough the holes on the runners are slightly different between series I and II R33. I had to drill the holes slightly bigger on my chromed runners (which was a spare series 1 set) when i went to fit it to my Plazmaman plenum.

Go 6000k or 8000k. I have 6000k in the car and the bike and love them.

Mine never used to never start on cold mornings or if it was parked at work all day. You could just hear the starter motor solenoid click and then all the electrics would die. Couldn't fingure out what was causing it, jump starting it worked fine, the battery was showing fine charge on the test machine we had at work from Century and after 2 weeks of f**king around it was the earth in the boot. While trying to start it i would get a mate to push down on the earth in the boot and hey presto it would start. It isn't the best earth and over the years gets worse. I now run two earths off the battery in the boot and have never had the same problem since.

Before you fork out for another battery, check the earth on the battery where it attaches to the body of the car in the boot. Common thing on batteries is when the car is really cold they don't get a good earth if it is dodgy. When it warms up everything expands slightly and the earth gets better. Worth a shot, have had it happen to me before.

Lol that's a random post Steve.

It's all the same shit, just a basic hydraulic fluid. Only certain cars, mainly European stuff, needs specific fluid.

Personally i like the staggered look with 18's on the front and 19's on the back

'Cops like to suck fat ones.....' '20s are the only way to go on a R33.....' 'Im looking at 20's cause i get defected for my 19's....' 'We don't like our cars looking good.....' I seriously don't need to say anything more in return to this.

Well if they last a long time i suppose it is worth it. Im going to do a bit more reading about them cause i read somewhere that they are a "pre filter", so not sure if that means you shouldn't use one on it's own

Oh really? So they last forever or.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Earls-Stainless-Bra...id=p3286.c0.m14

Ahh ok fair enough. I havn't read much into those types of filters, they last just as long as a normal fuel filter, change every 5,000-10,000km or so? EDIT: Just had a quick Google search and the cheapest one i have found so far is like $60.....Hmm maybe im going to just have to deal with these Ryco ones being such a bitch to get off.

Ahh so you do have to go those styles, i was hoping Ryco or some one made something cheap with just some threads on them.

Yep bolt holes dont line up. Just get some GTR seats. Better seat and they fit.

No one?

Im trying to find a ryco (or any other brand) normal in-line fuel filter but instead of the normal barb type push on fittings, i want ones that are made for -6 AN fittings. I've had a bit of a look around on the net but can't seem to find a part number. What are you guys using? Im installing a fuel pressure gauge for the next tune and all the fuel lines are braided. The braided line is a pain in the ass to get back off when doing a filter change due to the barb style holding it in place so i would rather have an easy fitting that i can unbolt. I remember seeing them at Autobarn when i worked there but god knows what one it was. The only drama i can think of the -6 line uses a 9/16"x18 thread for the AN fittings, do they make fuel filters with that thread or will a metric equivalent work ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I might call Ryco tomorrow after work. Thanks guys.

Couple of recent pics of mine. Turned out the camera didn't like taking low light pictures