PM-R33

It's Phil Hahaha glad i could help. The badge i actually put together myself by just getting all the letters and numbers seperately through Autobarn. Can't remember the supplier, they are like $2 per badge. Looks allright, fills up the area where the standard old looking RB25 sticker is.

Personally i like the normal GTST pods over the GTR ones. From the back the little bit that wraps around sticks out too much and looks weird.

Mine from a while back, in the process of changing a lot of things so should look a lot different soon

Hahaha yeah our one was about 1.5m deep off of memory. Had planks of wood covering the whole thing so was fairly safe.

You've never heard of 1+1=window? lol.

Yeah we had one in Czech in the basement, previous owner was a mechanic. Havn't really seen it in any houses in Aus.

I kept looking at that picture trying to think of what looks weird, then it hit me, you did the fuel cap on the wrong side

What kind of semi slicks? Full slicks are ment to be an issue, but i wouldnt have thought semi slicks would be.

Got one on mine no problems.

Exactly what i was gonig to say.

Hmm makes sense. Maybe ill check over mine, problem is there's no way my car will get up ramps. Will have to do it another way.

To stroke out a RB30 to over 3.1L requires a bit of dough aswell doesn't it? I remember reading RIPS doing the 3.4L (thick it was a 3.4L) and it didn't sound cheap.

You have to tighten the castor arms with the car at ride height? Shit i didn't do that, why's that? Just to make sure you get it tight?

Well considering he said 500-600kw i would be thinking 400-500rwkw which is "achievable" more so than 600rwkw. If you wanted something "fairly responsive" (hell i dont call anything with that kind of power on a RB responsive but whatever) with that kind of power i'd be looking at something along the lines of a 30/26 with twin GT-RS's. But as has been said, why so much power? I'd be looking at lower power levels but be concentrating on response.

Lol dude i think you missed the sarcasm in that post...

Pretty sure he means 500-600kw @ flywheel.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mo...ay-t289195.html

Sweet as, now that every one has paid we should get our parts soon

The money spent on the dyno trying to muck around with it on such a stock setup is better spent trying to get the car to the next stage.

Well turns out it aint damaging it in anyway with slightly touching on the exhaust

Yeah i've got a full earth kit through mine. The factory engine earths are fairly average.

Wohoo Ill make sure i dont miss this, looking forward to seeing Bakes' car. Saw it in the current issue in the wheels section, looked fantastic.

Hmmm fair enough, its just after reading that atricle it seems that isn't exactly the problem, not having the radiator earthed. I havnt had mine earthed and it's fine. Its the electrics around it, headlights etc which cause the problems of stray currents. So shouldn't the solution be make sure they are all well earthed? I dunno, this is just my understanding from that article.

According to NS anything about 50mV, so seems you are ok. So is it just saying that if you have dodgy earths in the car that electrolysis can happen in the cooling system? So just make sure all your main earths near the radiator are fine. Doesnt actually mention earthing the radiator does anything, says other earths near it cause it. So not sure why some of you have earthed your radiators.

Honestly the best example is the turbo one. 1.3L spooling up 700+HP turbos better than piston engines of double the displacement. That alone has to make you think what the hell is going on.