PM-R33

As said, it might just must feel more progressive on the street than more of a rush if the old setup was like that....

Yep ok fair enough i see where you are coming from. Like i said, i made the graph for me and then thought "what the hell ill post it up". I thought by me quickly explaining why that run stopped at 190kw was enough for every one to get the picture as it started coughing and spluttering on the dyno so they backed off.

Is it mainly just 1st and 2nd or is 3rd a bit of an issue with that power aswell?

Head got pulled off because i did the valve springs after putting the cams in. Your incorrect of your assumptions about my car. We ran the car on 20psi last time and it didn't get much better results hence we ran it on 17psi. A car that is ramping up on boost is not going to make more power down low because its peak boost has changed from 17psi to 20psi. The wastegate is shut below 3500 odd rpm, so the power increase down low is clearly not due to running more peak boost. Surely you know this and no i'm not dissapointed, it has a lot better over all power on the street, exactly what i wanted. Can we PLEASE not turn this into a shit fight like every other thread turns into. I did the graph for my amusement, thought ppl might think its interesting. It's not an Engineering report into the air flow characterstics of a GTRS, it was my dyno graphs put onto one graph, that is all. Take from it what you want.

I'm not going to keep arguing with you dude. I made the graph for me of my car's dyno runs and how it reacted each time. Thats what it made on the dyno on the stock ECU with no tuning. The 190rwkw was at about 5000rpm or so judging by the graph. That's pretty much what it would make on some one elses car aswell running the turbo on a stock ECU. So it was relavent to me and maybe it will be relevant to other people thinking a similar setup will get good results, which clearly it didn't until it got the aftermarket ECU put into it. Can you please just get over such a small thing, this wasn't the point of the thread.

Oh ok fair enough. I just put the graph up there since that was a graph i had lying around and it gives a rough idea of what the GTRS runs like on a stock ECU up to the point where mine stopped making power due to the coilpacks. Obviously if i had some good coilpacks on that run it looks like it would have gone to low 200's before the ECU started holding it back.

Good results man, loving how much gain your getting with this fuel!

Nah they are just standard size Nissan valves. I was thinking of going the 1mm oversize on the exhaust side, but couldn't justify the money at the time and wasn't sure what kind of gains it would have.

Hmm not sure what you are getting at. The dyno run that goes to 190rwkw was two years ago with the stock ecu and stock coilpacks. We were going to tune a SAFC before and after however up top it kept breaking down in spark. The reason i only plotted it to 190rwkw is afterwards it just jolted around the place, don't really see the point in plotting a bunch of random up and down spikes. Hope that kind of answers what you ment?

Thanks guys, i gotta head to work now, but ill post up the excel document later on tonight

Haha this should be interesting, one of my mates has a Xtrail that we always used to rape. The thing used to chirp third so easily lol.

That iphone application is pretty close!

Got a bit bored tonight and thought i'd get all the dyno graphs out and compare them. After looking at them all it was a bit difficult to actually see what kind of power increases there have been over the last three years as you obviously just get used to the power every time. I decided i would chuck all the values into excel and chuck them all on the same graph and was fairly suprised by it all. Here's the graph for a bit of a reference in case people are going down similar routes and want to compare what kind of power differences there will be (Obviously each dyno and car is different but at least it gives you a rough idea). Stock turbo Stock Turbo @ 10psi Full 3" Exhaust Pod Filter HKS GTRS Stock ECU GTRS @ 14psi (started breaking down spark at 190kw, hence the stop in power) FMIC Plazmaman plenum GTRS Microtech GTRS @ 17psi LT12S Microtech Splitfire Coilpacks Injectors Fuel Pump GTRS + Headwork GTRS @ 20psi Cams Springs Ported Polished Head I'm going to fiddle with it a bit more and try to get it to make a nice figure of 270kw

Got a bit bored tonight and thought i'd get all the dyno graphs out and compare them. After looking at them all it was a bit difficult to actually see what kind of power increases there have been over the last three years as you obviously just get used to the power every time. I decided i would chuck all the values into excel and chuck them all on the same graph and was fairly suprised by it all. Here's the graph for a bit of a reference in case people are going down similar routes and want to compare what kind of power differences there will be. (obviously each dyno and car is different but atleast it gives you a rough idea. Stock turbo Full 3" Exhaust Pod filter 12psi boost HKS GTRS

Just heard about this now RIP

Looks pretty good. What do you mean by "dipped"? Isn't it just a stuck on sticker/vinyl?

The CAS isn't slightly out of position is it? If it is out, the car won't start. EDIT: Just noticed you said you've checked the timing.

You and Marty sort it all out?

Well there you go. Might have to give him a try one day. Cheers.

So this streeter guy is decent on prices hey? I've never heard of him before, he new?

Very nice.

You will be fine, don't freak out. Both are great gearbox oils, much better than most off the shelf. I hardly doubt you would notice any difference between the two. The engine oil is also fine, coming up to winter now aswell, the lighter oil will be ok. To my customers up here i recommend a thicker oil if we are in summer and a thinner one when in winter. The 5W30 will be good, don't worry.

Damn, that's not good. No offence, but why did you post this in the Cosmetic and Styling section....

It can do, but it also might not. For that size turbo, you don't need to worry about trying to make it spool up earlier as it will be responsive to begin with and any gains you get in response will be minimum.

Don't worry about the head for the time being. Big money once you start playing with that, especially if you can't do the work yourself.