PM-R33

Bahahahahaha really? Oh man i gotta try that one *runs to the tuner for 500rwkw dyno graph*

As far as im aware there isn't other than the engine service manual. I'd love to be proved wrong though

No it doesn't.

I find people are the most friendly at petrol stations. While im filling up i usually get the person next to me say something positive and engage in a bit of a quick chat about something.

Nah i believe the diff only ever came out on the R33 GTR V-Spec and as a factory option on the R33 GTST Series II's. However that's only because i've never seen/read about one elsewhere. Feel wise i can only compare it to a normal R33 GTST diff since i've never driven a R33 with a 1.5-way/2-way mechanical diff. To me it feels completely normal, only times it is annoying is when it doesn't lock the wheels properly and single spins one, usually the left one and causes the car to kick out quite badly when coming onto power. It's been doing it more often lately hence why im going to service the fluids.

High mount T04Z will fix your problem. Well it will...

I agree, check out skylineowners.com and mainly gtr.co.uk for a lot of information about twin cam 30's.

So are you selling the other sets..... Any particular ebay supplier in the states you'd recommend?

I still want to know the answer to my question as why he wants such crazy diff gear ratios. The top speed of the car would be like 170km/h....

What oil modifications have been done to the engine? I think regardless whether its a RB25, RB26 or twin cam RB30, the oil problems would be the same. Obviously the more power you're pushing (judging by your sig quite a lot) and the more revs you give it, it'll become more apparent if the oil system isn't up to it.

You think a Ford 9" is going to bolt straight in..... Am i reading this right? You want to go from 4.11 diff gears to 5.8 diff gears? What the hell are you trying to do?

The R32 GTR is lighter than the R33 GTR.

What he said^ What power is it currently making and on what boost?

Thank f**k for that.

Lol! Were you stroking yourself to that one with a mirror in one hand?

Well said man. I actually like WRX's, a few of my friends have them and are great cars. I was simplying commenting on what some one said that a WRX would "destroy" 90% of GTST's and that simply not the case, hence my comment. Suddenly i get targeted my old mate with a bit of a personal attack on my car. That comment really necessary? Couldn't have kept that one to yourself, felt the need to put it out there to make yourself feel good?

The photos for the feature was taken 12 months ago to nearly this exact day, car has a lot more done to it now, but that's irrelevant. Can you please explain what you mean by my car would start to spool when his is dying off? My car makes full boost, 1.5bar, by 3500rpm and pulls all the way to 7500rpm, so im a bit confused what you mean by that statement. What does comparing my car have to do with time attack in japan or anything like that? Starting to make this a bit personal don't you think? Of course they aren't seen much in those events, since most people in those events have deep pockets, so why start with a lower ranged car when you can buy a GTR? I'll be racing my car in hill climbs and bitumen sprints as soon as i have the cash ready and the car setup the way i want it. You are obviously impressed fairly easily if you see a WRX wagon getting some wheel spin and suddenly have the balls to target me out and start preaching to me don't you think?

Updated July 2011 Why this sticky about the A-LSD? The problem with this has been that there is little technical information on the Active-Limited Slip Differential (A-LSD) even though it is now over a decade later since they were made. There is information about however the information is scattered all over SAU over a dozen threads. The purpose of this sticky is to have all the information in one place to save people time searching all over the place for hours on end. What is an A-LSD? For people's information reading this that aren't aware of what an A-LSD is, it's a rare factory option on certain model R33 GTSTs of having a R33 GTR V-Spec diff. The diff is controlled via an ECU in the boot next to the HICAS ECU. The ECU triggers a hydraulic pump that pumps a hydraulic fluid into the diff to lock it up when required. It does this by observing the behaviour of the wheels and when it detects that one wheel has broken traction it will send power to the other wheel to compensate and keep maximum traction. So in theory it is ment to behave like an open wheeled diff all the time and behave like a locked diff when needed. In theory this is great however it doesn't always go according to plan. The problem is the response time. When a wheel starts losing traction the diff should instantly recognise it and go into action instantly without you even noticing. This would give perfect traction. The thing is this doesn't happen. The single wheel will break loose and in certain situations the diff will take ages to send power to the other wheel - sometimes not at all. This causes very unpredictable "tank slaps" when trying to go straight or when trying to slide. How do I know if I have an A-LSD? The way to spot whether a vehicle has an A-LSD is as follows: Cooling fins on the diff itself (and a large hydraulic line going to it) Hydraulic pumps and wiring underneath back rear of vehicle Hydraluic fluid resevoir in boot on right hand side Two ECU's next to battery in the boot (one is HICAS, the other ALSD) A-LSD and SLIP wording inside tacho on dash Resevoir in Boot The resevoir in the boot holds the hydraulic fluid required by the A-LSD. The original Nissan fluid is called Matic D however it is expensive and hard to get. Instead Castrol Transmax Z can be used due to it being an equivalent fluid. A-LSD Fluid The diff itself has "USE LSD OIL ONLY" stamped onto it so something like Castrol LSX90, Motul LSD oil or similar shall be fine. Some people have used non LSD oil it the diffs however I would do what Nissan says. The following thread showed the main discussions about what fluid to use. Next we shall go into the problems that arrise with the tricky A-LSD. Aftermarket ECU Problems The first problem that arrises with the A-LSD is aftermarket ECU’s are not made with it in mind. This causes the A-LSD to go into instant failure mode as soon as the factory ECU is removed and something aftermarket is put into its place. The A-LSD light on the dash will illuminate to indicate a failure. Luckily this is a fairly simple fix but took a long time to find by some of the people here on SAU. The following thread shows how to overcome this problem. Basically a TPS signal needs to be rewired to go the the A-LSD ECU in the boot. Thanks go out to T04GTR, Moanie and PaulR33 for this. Diff Lock Problems - Bleeding So now going onto the main problems with the diff, the delay. One main reason that adds to the delay is air being trapped in the lines that the hydraulic fluid flows through. This air needs to be bled - just like in brake lines. On page 3, PaulR33 wrote a bleeding method for the diff. The main thing is to use the bleed nipple on the top of the diff, which most people never knew about and the bleed nipple near the pumps. Diff Lock Problems - Full Control with Aftermarket ECU Here is my DIY write up on how to get full control of the A-LSD with an aftermarket ECU. This means that you can setup the diff to function the way you want and have it locking up when you choose. Once again, great thanks to everyone involved in those threads, especially PaulR33 for all his hard work and posts regarding the A-LSD. Hopefully this sticky can continue to be a good information source regarding the A-LSD. Cheers Phi

What a load of crap. I put redline shockproof in about 3 years ago. About 1.5 years ago we changed my clutch and took the fluid out, it looked brand new so we decided to reuse it. I've had the same lightweight shockproof in there for about 30,000km and it still feals like a new tight box.

"SHIT JUST GOT REAL!"

Any new pics?

So these are a direct fit to all the nissan pedals? ie. You buy those 6 things and they fit?

Really curious to see what caused this....