PM-R33

Dead set, don't you c***s ever give up with this shit.

Hmm interesting idea, never come across it before. However when its fully open, surely the side with the valve in it would be at a greater restriction than the other side causing a larger pressure build up in the runners for cylinders 4, 5 and 6. This wouldn't have a slight negative effect?

Ended up doing low 260kw with good power every where in the rev range. Very happy with it. However it should still make more power and the only red flag we have is the MAP sensor on the Microtech. The internal sensor is a 20psi one, so we can't run more than 20psi. The thing is, when we run 20psi on the boost controller, the boost gauge and the dyno, the Microtech is seeing 25psi and getting a MAP error. So we can't tune for that boost. So in reality, anything over 15psi, the Micoretch sees 20psi and no more tuning available. So i might send the ECU away and get them to swap it over to the 30psi one and go again, but for the time being i got uni and shit to concentrate on so i'm gonna leave it how it is for now.

Ok just a couple of things. The Royal Purple that you get for under $100 is a Group IV oil, so compare that to the Motul 8100 which is also Group IV. If you want to compare the 300V then you can only compare that to the Royal Purple racing oil which is around the same price as 300V, im pretty sure it is a Group V oil, but not 100% sure on that one, will have to speak to the Royal Purple rep next time i see him. Problem with Royal Purple is that it started getting a great name for it self when Street Commodores did a test on all the oils in the country and Royal Purple won it be a mile stone, all the other brands including Motul performed horribly. Suddenly they got the attention of all the oil companies and they went "Hang on a sec, wtf is going on here!", so they investigated it and a law suit became of it. The problem was Street Commodores used a machine that didn't simulate engine loads on bearings (i believe it was a gearbox load simulator from memory) and that's why all the oils performed so badly. They published a big apology but not many people saw that one, they just remembered Royal Purple dominating it, hence their great reputation began in Aus Nice history lesson for ya. Nothing wrong with Royal Purple, i sell heaps of it and it's a great oil. If i couldn't buy 300V at my work i would go the Royal Purple 10W40 because Motul don't make a 10W40 in a Group IV oil.

You can't delete them, contact admin and ask them too. Why the hell did you create so many in the first place?

Yes it is, it is a GRADE III oil, like 75% of oils you get off the shelf.

Great write up man.

Told you they weren't HKS ones Glad you got your cash back man, no knees needed to be broken after all.

Mine are 6000K HID's and are pure white. Very happy with mine

Or you could get it from these guys. Wish they made more shit for the R33 http://www.robson-design.com/english/nissan-GTR33.htm They have heaps for the R34 http://www.robson-design.com/english/nissan-GTR34.htm

Yeah seems fine to me. On cold start mine sits at about 70-80psi on normal driving, if i have to give it a bit when cold it hits up to 100psi. After a couple of minutes it goes back to normal around 50-60psi. Using Chrono 10W40.

What he said^

Get a black R34, lower it, put some nice wheels on it and you'll have a sweet P plate friendly car.

Philips Diamond Vision (5000k), most blue halogen bulb you can get to my knowledge. $145 RRP a pair, you won't be able to see anything at all with them on and the first cop that will see you will pull you up. They are mainly designed for show. Better alternative is the Philips Crystal Vision (4300K) at $99 RRP a pair but not as blue. Atleast cops won't hopefully hassel you and you will see a bit better. (They still aren't ADR approved nor do they give much light). Problem with halogen bulbs is the higher the kelvin, the less distance and light output you get, anything over 4000K is a step backwards in distance and light output. I had Crystal Visions for 2 years, now have HID's and i couldn't be happier.

Yep ABS wire. There is one on the other side aswell. Well atleast on mine that's what is it.

What car? If it's a R33 and it's the one to the right of the fuse box on the passenger side that goes inside the guard, its for the ABS (if your car has ABS).

No way!! HSV's aren't 2 stroke?!?!

I hit 100 degrees the other day giving it stick and holding, it in the middle of the day (was a bloody hot day). I'm going to look into a decent PWR radiator or something along those lines soon. This was the first time it has hit anything over 92. However i don't have an exhaust manifold heat shield on there at the moment cause i havn't had a chance to get my new one made yet, so this could be contributing to under bonnet temps. Note to self, "Townsville day heat plus giving it stick with 450BHP, bad".

Nice credentials man

This thread is awesome! Stick it to them!

True ay. My car parks in the sun a bit at work and at uni and i haven't had any dramas yet. Like you said, use something to glue it back together.

Hahahahahaha!

Townsville heat + day driving + my right foot = 86-92 degrees.

Chicks love the hektik fluterzzz yo!

Onto the bolt for the seat. I just used two zipties onto the mounting frame for the extinguisher.