PM-R33

Nope, its a 20kw loss still. Before the head and the cams the car used to make nearly 260kw on around 17-18psi. Now with the headwork, poncams and 20psi it only makes 240kw.

You ever end up getting this sorted man? What was the issue?

Yep was the stupid f**king cat afterall! Power went straight away from 170kw to 240kw....however now it won't make more and we don't know why. God it never ends!!

Personally, i drove around for a few months with my GT-RS before i could afford the microtech. As long as you run low boost it'll be fine.

Hmmm im nearly convinced that it's the cat to blame on my car now. Cheers for the replys guys, ill let you know if it was the cat.

When it collapsed, what did the car actually do? Did it just lose all power and not make any more? What made you know it was the cat?

Yeah man got the head back finally, was so looking forward to the tune and i get told its lost 200HP and is making standard skyline power God i hope it's just the cat.

Bringing up a bit of an old thread. What are the symptoms for a collapsed cat? Will it still drive fine, but make f**k all power? Reason i ask, my car is at the shop at the momemt and we just can't get it to make power. It's like it's hit a brick wall and no matter how much boost we put in (anywhere from 14-22psi) it doesn't change the power at all. I'm going to go there tomorrow and unbolt the cat and run it with no exhaust to see what happens but i kind of want to know what to expect since it's been pissing me off all day. It's a Magic cat by the way, which i thought was ment to be a decent cat!

I'd also do seals and guides for peace of mind if i was you.

Lol at pinking. Not in the UK bud, no one calls it pinking here.

A lot more expensive, 3 or 4 times the amount depending what gears you were looking at.

Most people can't hear detonation, easiest way to describe the sound is the sound that is made on a geiger counter that detects radiation. This is what you are hearing? Very rare for the stock ECU (with only such minor mods) to allow such audible detonation at only 4000rpm, hence why im thinking it might be something else that you think is detonation.

Now that gloss black looks nice! Really not a fan of all these coloured dashes people do, makes the car look cheap IMO.

Quick lesson about the hiclones. Guy in Cairns invented them, hence why you only see the ads in QLD, most people from down south have never heard of them. The theory behind them stands true. Pretty much, when a liquid is introduced with a circular motion it increases it's velocity. Easy way to see this is getting two bottles of water. Spin one around a few times and then pour them both upside down. The one with the circular motion will empty faster. This is how the hiclone works, introduces a circular motion into the airflow into the engine, thus increasing its velocity. All well in theory so far, however here is where it starts to fall apart in real world situations. The problem with this thoery is it only holds if you dont disrupt the flow of the liquid. We all have something in our cars that disrupts this flow, yep you guessed it, the throttle body. With constant adjustments of the throttle, the air is stalled and actually slows down. Once again this can be seen with our two bottle theory, place your hand underneath one a couple of times to stop the flow and it will actually slow compared to the one that is untouched. Therefore yes a hiclone works in theory, problem is in real world situations driving around town they are shit, simple as that. Best application for them, and one that most people say does in fact work well, is highway driving on cruise control, therefore no throttle body adjustments are made. So in other words, save your money and buy something else Isn't physics fun!

An engine is an engine, regardless what it is. Build quality, lubrication used, how the engine is driven, what power it is pushing out, how often it is serviced, climate, etc. You get my point. A car can last 1,000,000km if it is treated correctly. However certain things might fail and need replacing. Most parts will have to be replaced during the life of the car, so what particular part are we talking about. There really is no answer to this thread and therefore is entirely pointless. Kind of like asking what age shall i live to.

Ok a few things don't make sense for me, please clarify. After you purchased the car, how much driving did you do? For a car to have no engine oil, it would nearly immediately start failing after you started it. You would hear some awful noises, other than just "clicking". I am amazed you could even drive it down the road. For the previous owner to not have any oil in it is highly unlikely. So was it just a bit low on oil? If it in fact had no oil in it, how did you not have an engine oil light come on, or the fact the oil pressure gauge would have sat on zero? In other word's what im trying to say is there in no way in hell that the engine had no oil in it, it would fail almost instantly, let alone drive around with just a clicking noise. Also, the entire engine would be f**ked: Bearings, cams, turbos, rings etc. Not just "a piston". Have you taken the sump plug off to see what is actually in it?

100% DO NOT BLOCK THE OTHER HOLE. Set the gains to its lowest of 5%. Set the start boost to 0. Set the Limiter to a couple of psi above what the max is you want to run. Set the limiter boost percentage to whatever you want, i have it set to like 30%. Now adjust the boost pressure by 10% and see what it does, if it increases you know it is working. Keep increasing it to the max pressure you want to run. Once that is done start playing with the gains and start boost settings. EDIT: Just saw the date of this thread

Yep sure is, the 135i is a great car. With an exhaust upgrade and a slight ECU remap, 250rwkw is a piece of piss to achieve out of them. A M3 killer for half the money.

Have you guys done anything electrical recently? If so, disconnect your battery to reset the ECU and it should fix it. If not, you know something is not connected properly.

Put some bigger injectors into it and get some one to retune it and leave it as that.

Got mine after the dump, no way in hell im risking a long piece of metal snapping and going through the turbo. Most likely will never happen, but i personally didn't want to take the risk. Temps seem to still be fairly accurate.

Kind of like a female

Autobarn can get them. Can't remember the part number at the moment. If i remember tomorrow ill get you the part number. They are like $199 or something off of memory. Or get the Trust one, but it has precut 60mm holes.

So.....regretting not just putting a set of replacement Splitfires in?

Yeah but is that because you have done 14,000 of them? I'm sure if i did one again now, it would take me half the time. However if this is his first attempt (like mine was), im pretty sure there will be some swearing involved. However maybe you are right and R32 GTR's are easy, never done one of them personally.