PM-R33

As far as i am aware it is, god i hope so, i allready have plans for the money haha

On the RB26's they are a good investment on stock cams, only downside its a lot of dyno time and mucking around.

Get some adjustable cam gears, Bosch fuel pump and retune it with more boost. Simple as that.

My god, what a read! I feel so sorry for you guys and especially you Andrew, your a good bloke for keeping your head up, most people would have just given up. Hopefully this all gets sorted out, but damn, what a bunch of f***ing c***s is the US for pulling this shit. Fully agree that they are lucky they are not in Aus......

Bringing up a really old thread i know, but i want to see pics of Skylinecoupes (or some one elses) "under car aero aids". Anybody else mucked around with some sheetmetal or carbon under the car to make it more flat? I've been thinking about doing something like this for a while now as it can be done relitively cheap by yourself (with sheets of metal) and since i do Engineering at uni, i figured this would be a nice start for Fluid Dynamics This is probably the best thread i could find on this topic http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hl=aerodynamics

Only RB26's have them standard, RB25's don't and im pretty sure neither do RB20's. I installed a universal one just after the filter, that way i have exact intake temps into the turbo, not after what the intercooler has cooled.

Very well said Paul.

Hahaha! An old one, but still great.

For the love of god don't use degreaser, use a clear coat friendly mag/wheel cleaner if you must. Something from Mothers, Meguiars, Autoglym, not some cheap ass crap you buy for $3.49. Once they are nice and clean, you can use a wax or polish on them to protect them from UV and stop the brake dust from imbedding into them as quickly. Then just wash them normally when you wash the car to get rid of the brake dust, however make sure you use a pH neutral shampoo that doesn't take off wax (eg. Meguiars soft wash, Mothers gold class etc). Make sure you clean your wheels last if using a sponge, cloth etc, so you don't scratch your paintwork from the build up of dirt on the wheels. With this method, you won't need to use wheel cleaners.

550kw with more to come, you are insane.....and i love it! Good work mate

LOL!! On what fuel pressure are you basing that on? Just because the car "seems" fine, doesn't mean it necessarily is, AFR's and knock count will tell the truth.

GTR's have 6 individual throttle bodies just before the intake on the head. Leave the standard setup alone and spend the money elsewherem, the standard GTR plenum and 6 throttle setup is very good.

As far as im aware, no.

My head's with him at the moment, should have it back soon. Seems like a decent bloke.

No offence, but your an idiot and have no idea what your talking about. It won't make the car run lean, it actually richens up the fuel mixtures with a blocked off valve on the stock ecu, so will run rich for that split second. What the hell does a BOV and screamer pipe have to do with one another? They are completely different things. Do you even know what a screamer pipe is? Mate do a search on "flutter", its been covered a million times. Thread lock?

Yep that simple, just make sure you reconnect the AFM. Are you running larger injectors? If so, then the car won't run on the stock ECU and injectors.

You got any pics of that radiator air cooling panel? Is it the one from the group buy?

Depends if it is their race oil or there normal oil that you find on shelves for $90. The $90 one is a group IV and i believe their race oils are group 5 but not 100% sure.

Won't be a direct bolt on, will need to weld a flange on.

Wow 270rwkw with on 13psi, now im really interested to see how she goes!

Well obviously the 300V would be the best over the 4100, it also comes with a price tag. Yes, Motul 8100 is a group IV

My good mate had a black 300C on 22's and i loved it to death, was one of the first ones in north queensland, the attention the car got was unbelievable. However i think this new model has "softened" it's looks a bit too much, making it to round. Maybe in real life it will look good, we'll see...

Looks fantastic mate, good luck with the sale.

For a century DIN53L fully sealed battery (you legally have to have a sealed one since it is in the boot) your looking at around $130-$160.