PM-R33

Yeah i was wondering about the factory clutch switch, i think your right and it is on when the medal is up and off when down. Hmmm.

kg/cm2 to psi is multiply by 14.21 So 2 on idle is 28.4psi

Ok so im going to try and set up this launch control function that the microtech can do, but im just wondering what the best way to do it would be. Now bear in mind that it's a street car, so the launch control has to be able to be disengaged/engaged fairly easily. Now the launch control needs a 12V source to turn it on/off so a switch mechanism is needed. After doing a bit of research most people either have it hooked up to a hand brake, clutch switch, or a push button switch. The way i look at it, i'd rather be holding onto the wheel with both hands when launching, so i was thinking a missile switch to "arm" the launch control and then a clutch switch to actually engage it (R33's have a standard clutch switch don't they?) So here is my diagram of what im thinking, running a missile switch in series with the clutch switch so it is only activated when the missile switch is on and the clutch is in. Is this the best method to do it? What are others doing? Also with the microtech you can add fuel and retard timing for a proper launch, however i run a magic cat which i dont exactly want to destroy, is it possible to set it up slightly so it still makes a small amount of boost on launch without blowing the cat out and shooting flames? They say on the microtech forums to take about 30 degrees of timing out and add 50% fuel, ( http://www.microtechefi.com/forum/viewtopi...t=launc+control ) say i did a third of that, would it still make some boost without destroying the cat? Thanks guys.

http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_GasketNissan.html That's them there man. They stop heat transfer from the head to the intake manifold.

It will have something to do with the AFM wire that you have to use for the SAFC. Probably a dry solder join or it's come loose. EDIT: Or you changed the settings on the SAFC accidentally where you have to program what type of AFM you are using.

I thought they only made an intake manifold one to insulate the runners from the head? Do they do a plenum one aswell?

Bahahaha that is f***ing awesome!!

STAGE 5: $10,000!!!! HOLY SHIT!!! Do 10 virgins make love to your car for 2-4 weeks?!?!?!

*Dude, 4 years ago.....*

The sand sound is the shaft broken into two pieces and grinding away on itself Had it happen to my old one.

True that.

Hmm that's fair enough i suppose.

I was thinking about the rocket switch, however wouldn't it be a bit awkward flicking a switch back to "off" as soon as you drop the clutch to disengage the rev limiter.

Looking good dave! How far off are you from getting her back together?

Why is it that motul dont make any of the 300V in 5L's? I asked the link rep last time he was up in our store and he didn't really know. Is there a reason for it? Always wondered about this.

Yeah arp make exhaust studs, but just go nissan ones or go to an exhaust shop and get some.

If it's an external gate, it's a HKS 3037S, not a 3037ProS. Small difference i know, but it's the difference between internal and external gate. A stock headgasket will usually only blow from detonation and will protect your engine (in theory). A built engine that won't let go from small detonation doesn't want the headgasket popping every second hard thrashing, hence most people go metal headgaskets which are stronger and usually won't blow. Stock headgaskets are only the standard thickness so if your head/block has been heavily decked or you want to run a different CR, aftermarket headgaskets with different thicknesses are your only option. Just keep the stock one, she will be fine. I've got the head off of my car and will be pushing similar power and have another standard gasket ready to go back in.

Hmm ok i had a look in the manual and there is an Aux Input function that sets a rev limiter when the (12V) Aux input is activated. Explains it furthur saying "You can hook up a 12V switch to the AUX input and set a limit figure in the InpRPMlim screen and use the InpTiming screen to retard timing slightly. When the button is presed, the engine will be limited to this rpm figure, and the timing retarded. Releasing the button will deactivate the rev limiter and return the timing to its normal value, allowing the engine to instantly produce full power. This way you can very easily use the Aux Input to set up a basic two-step." So in other words, you could somehow hook it up to the handbrake and have the rev limiter set until you release the handbrake? Might look into this furthur and play around with it a bit.

I'm guessing he wants to weld the gate shut and run an external gate??

No need.

Yeah see i'd rather not do that (even though it would be fun shooting huge flames and launching on boost). Would rather just a normal rev limiter (fuel cut) on stand still so i can dial in the exact rpm to launch from. Similar to what the new FG falcon's have, hold in the clutch and flloor it and it limits revs to like 4000rpm or whatever.

So whats the cheapest option for a 0km/h (stationary) rev limiter? Have always thought about one of these, i don't really care about the ignition cut as i don't want to destroy the cat so i don't wanna spend $300 on a BeeR. I'm guessing you can't do something with the LT12S to do it?

Hmmm 600-700 really isn't that bad of a price.

The wiring going to that coilpack. Check with a multimeter on the pins in the plug if there is a voltage.

Pretty much there are lights on the side of the ecu, pretty sure the red one flashes when there is a problem. If it flashes, check your hand controllers error log screens (screen 33 off of memory) and it will show what error options there are. ErrorChk1 is for air temp, crank angle, home and ref ErorrChk2 is for MAP, RPM, TPS and DC volts See what it says from them and start from there.