PM-R33

Ok i can't believe these topics still get brought up when it has been covered so many times before. The popping/stuttering is called missfire. It is when the spark plug is literally blown out and cannot fire to make a clean burn. Therefore it is a spark issue, ie spark plug or coilpacks. The stronger the ignition system in the car, the larger the spark plug gap can be because the system can create a larger voltage and ionize the air (gap between the spark plug tips). If the ignition system is weak than it can't ionize the air properly and will not fire, if the gap is too large same thing happens. (Think of a static electricity shock when you get zapped, the potential of the object zapping you is a lot higher then your body and the object tries to reach the same potential between you and it so it ionizes the air and causes a bridge and you get a zap. The larger the potential difference, the greater the zap and the greater the distance between you and the object can be.) So there are three fixes: a) if the ignition system is fine, lower the gap between the spark plug tips until it stops missfiring b) upgrade the ignition system so the spark can fire across the gap properly as yours is obviosly not up to scratch c) do both To me if it is still missfiring at 0.8 on such low boost it will most likely be the coilpacks, but you can gap them down furthur to .7 or .6 to solve the problem for the time being, however i'd borrow some coil packs from someone and test them. As to the iridium plugs, easy fix, don't use them! Iridium/platinum plugs main advantage is that they last a long time compared to coppers. However it is better having a fresh set of plugs in the car all the time than it is to have some sitting in there for years, even if they still work ok. In most modified cars, plugs foul up quickly, so having a set of fresh plugs in the car every 5000-10000km is usually the best option. Also, most iridiums/platinums run a 1.1mm gap which is fine for most stock cars, but with most of us running more boost and airflow over stock, 1.1mm is usually too big and causes issues unless your ignition system is in very great condition. Gapping iridium/platinum plugs is not recommended as it damages the tip of iridium/platinum a lot more than it does to copper. Just use BCPR6E plugs (or the heat range that you need) that are pre gapped to .8 and change them every 5000-10000km and i can gaurantee the car will run fine (if your ignition system is in good working order) and you'll still have money left over in your pocket with paying $4 a plug compared to $30-$40 a plug.

What error codes is the microtech flashing on the side of the unit?

Just cause another car has a steering wheel with an airbag in it doesn't mean it will fit your car. The momo R33 40th anniversary airbag steering wheel is the only one im aware that will fit without modification. Never seen any other airbag steering wheels fitted.

Never had dramas with mine, filled it twice now to around 3.5L. Something must be wrong...

^+1

A lot of guys get headlight protectors for cars and then tint them black, so that might be what some ppl are seeing. As for the pic of the GTR posted on this page, the main reason those lights don't look good tinted is cause the front of that car looks like shit. R34GT-T, if you get it done post up pics.

I tried taking pics of them at night time but i realised my photography skills aren't that flash! It's a lot harder to take decent photos at night with the HID's shining. Ill try to get my mate who has a good camera to take some photos, see how those turn out....

R34 GTR any day of the week. Still not a fan of the 370Z from the photos, need to see one in real life.

What price are the ATI ones compared to the Ross ones? I've seen most Ross ones around $600.

Yep correct, you can buy them in just timing and alternator, or you can add on power steering and aircon. Out of curiousty, what's the best price you guys buying the balancers for? Been thinking about chucking one on mine as the standard one looks like it's seen better days.

Mmmmmm anti-lag....

lol. You do now realise the original poster is going to believe all of that and the next question he is going to ask is where can i get a polariser...

Only thing that affects tunes in a few months is climate change. Going for a tune in winter to summer will change how the car behaves. Cold start is usually the most affected thing. However if the tune is done well, it shouldn't be something that needs retuning in different seasons unless your pushing your car harder in winter, ie more timing.

Out of curiousty, when you say you want more torque, do you want to make the car drive off of boost better or want to make the car faster or what exactly for? Because honestly without increasing displacement, nothing you can really do in your setup is going to do a noticible increase without changing parts.

Too harsh man, come on, there's kids on this forum.

Holy sh*t!!! $2200 to fix that problem and tune the car to 168kw!?!?! That is f**ked!

*Insert mum joke here*

True that.

Thanks!

Not sure what model it is but my old man runs a Walbro in the Monaro, 370rwkw+ and it holds up fine. Just run a Nismo/Tomei fuel pump in tank and then if you need more, run an external 044 with the nismo running as a pick up

Dude your kidding me right? A car sitting without movement doesn't destroy itself magically like some of you may think. Full tank of fuel to stop condensation and disconnect the battery. The car can sit there for ages, dont worry about it. When you go to start it, crank it over a couple of times to build oil pressure before you start it, that's about it.

Ummm no there isn't... There is coolant lines running through the intake runners but not the plenum. The only coolant that is near the plenum is the two lines that run through the throttle body to stop it from freezing shut.

Yeah what is the update with all of this?

Yeah the coolant temp sensor wont be causing this. It can make the vehicle have problems starting or running rough (or not start at all) but it wouldnt be causing such a huge drop in power.

+1 for bumping up the compression ratio since your allready rebuilding it. Only real way to get better power down low without changing that turbo setup (or going bigger displacement). Some poncams (or something with small duration but a bigger increase in lift) will help down low a bit.