PM-R33

Had a quick search and couldn't seem to find an exact answer to this. Just took the head off from the RB25 and figured i'd clean all the carbon build up on the tops of the pistons while the heads away. What's the best thing that will dissolve/clean away all the carbon? Metho? Kero? I have no idea... Cheers

Haha fair enough man. I just finished pulling my head off, sending it down south to get ported, angled valve job, new seals, new springs etc etc. Then chuck the Poncams in, squeeze 20 pound into her and try to see whether i can finally get my car running with camshafts haha. Ill let you know how i go.

Oh man! Hahaha.

Warlord, how'd you end up going with this? Did you get the head ported?

In theory a larger intercooler or longer piping will make more lag due to it taking longer to pressurise a larger volume of air, simple physics. However in your case, the lag increase wouldn't be noticable, so if you can actually notice a difference and its not a placebo affect i would check over everything. You didn't leave a hose clamp a bit loose and its leaking a bit of boost out? Does it hold peak boost or is it fluctuating?

You have to remember how heavy all of these new commodores/falcons are. You chuck a LS1/LS2 into a lighter car like a S13 and it definetely won't feal boring. Youtube "RX7 LS1" and watch how quick those things are even in basic stock form. At the end of the day, technology means weight, simple as that. Perfect example the R35. Today's demands with 100 airbags, electronics superior to that of some home computers, zoned climate control, electric seats with 100 different motors, stereo systems with 30 speakers etc makes it very difficult to build a car targeted to a majority of people (families, work vehicles, towing etc) that is still going to be under 1400kg.

Where did i ever mention my driving? I stated FACTS about the rough times these cars run down the drags in stock form or with slight work done to them. So your comment about my driving is completely irrelevant. I said a RB25 with 188rwkw roughly runs a 13.5 and it does. Is your RB25 in a R33 or is in in a S13, however your sig says its an RB20 so which one is it? Ok so you ran a 13.1, congrats, you said you beat the VX clubby by 1.2 seconds, therefore it ran a 14.3 correct? Once again i ask, whats the rest of the story since a standard VX clubby will run that, not a 270rwkw one...... You are honestly wondering why i think your story is bullshit?

Speaking of expensive f***ing cars, you guys seen the 4 million AUD Aston Martin? The worlds new most expensive car (previous was Veyron at 3.5 million AUD to memory) Not sure if there is a thread about it allready.

Could be slight vacuum leak, could be dirty idle control valve or could just be in the tune. Hard to say.

F**k thats hot.

Ok cool in that case its an easy answer, do the RB30 bottem end and here's why: My mate just went through a RB26 conversion in his GTST and was the biggest waste of money ever. He had around 190ish kw and went to 230kw for around $10k+ (good bang for buck ay?) For a stock RB26 with labour for someone modifying the sump to get rid of the front diff, then labour to get the old engine out, labour to put the new engine in, a power FC for a 26, labour to rewire the engine, new cooler piping, tuning and a bunch of other little costs, it added up very quickly. In your case you would be stuck with an engine putting out less power then you currently have, therefore you would have to sell all of your stuff to pay for either a single turbo conversion or put another set of twins on it. However you have a stock RB26 bottem end or a questionable "rebuilt one", how long is it going to last, well the one in my mates car lasted 6 months, so there goes his $10k conversion. On the other side of the coin you go the RB30 bottem end, you can reuse everything you have for the time being, you just need someone to modify your head to fit the RB30 bottem end. You have 2 options, a standard RB30 that you buy from somewhere, a rebuilt RB30 bottem end to standard specifications (like the RIPS ones from NZ) or a forged bottem end. If your looking around the 350rwkw mark, the RIPS standard rebuilt bottem end will do the job. They go for a few grand, with labour on the head and engine removal it would set you back easily under the 10k mark (you can even sell your stock 25 bottem end) with money to still spend on whatever turbo you want, GT35R etc. Now you have a bottem end that you know will last, the turbo of your choice on it, more torque/response than the 26 from the extra displacement and still probably more money left over then the 26 conversion. I know what one i would do. Your choice though.

I've been thinking about getting one of those UAS airboxes, just not sure how well it will fit with my custom pipework, looks good though.

The steering wheel from the V35 Skylines looks nice, some one try and fit one of them

What do you want out of the car? Reliability? Big power? What's it going to be used for? What's done to the 25 at the moment? What's your budget?

HKS 2530 is the most reponsive turbo that you can chuck on their relastically speaking. It spools up as quick as the stock one, you won't be able to tell a difference response wise. Friend of mine has one pushing 220ish kw.

Your call, but it's only going to get worse and worse. Will start getting major blow-by in that cylinder and burning your oil.

Don't you mean super rich? If there is no air getting into the head due to leaking from the intake manifold it would run rich. Kind of like having a popped intercooler pipe.

Is urs the unique autosports airbox?

Oh ok that's fair enough. On a more open circuit it does open up other choices than our little tight track

Yeah that seems a bit strange to me aswell. The 300kw GTS Coupe's did around 220-230kw you'd think the new VE with more power and a better drivetrain would make more than 220kw.

Step 1. Sell series 1 Step 2. Buy series 2 Hell of a lot cheaper.

Turned out good man.

Yeah as said above, cheapest option if you don't want to rebuild it is to just buy another engine and then sell off your old one. If you can do the job yourself with mates over a weekend (it aint that hard), it will probably only end up costing you $1000 once you part of the old one. We did it to my mates a month or so back.

Did he miss multiple gears, have 185 tyres on and spun the whole track, not know how to drive, blew a clutch, have it in reverse or what? A LS1 pushing that much power would smoke a 188rwkw skyline any day of the week even with a crap launch, so obviously there is more to the story. A VX clubby does a quarter in about 14 seconds give or take with variables. A stock RB25 does it in about 14-14.5, lets say one with 188rwkw does a 13.5 for arguments sake, once again give or take. You beat a 270rwkw clubby by 1.2seconds...... So his 270rwkw clubby is slower than a stock clubby? Once again i ask, what's the rest of the story?

Metal headgaskets are more likely to hold together and not blow out when there is a bit of detonation due to the increased strength from the metal walls around the cylinder, a standard one will usually blow out but will hopefully save your engine. Think about it as the weakest link in a chain giving out first. The reason many people change to a metal one is due to the larger thicknesses available so they can lower compression. Lowering compression usually means that you can put more timing into the engine on the same boost level without it knocking, in essence usually making more power. However with lower compression you will sacrifice some bottom end power and boost response. Hence if you don't need to replace it with a thicker size, then just replace it with a standard one. There is a lot more to this and i cant be bothered writing it all, but unless you are putting through a lot of boost and timing with over 300kw, there is no great reason to swap to a metal one unless you want to lower compression or if you have a strong built engine and know the metal gasket will still probably let go before a rod.