PM-R33

I havn't used mine for about a year and now ts just pushing hot air aswell. Had my dash off a few times this year so ill check that air temp sensor and see if it solves it. *Runs to garage*

Seriously man read the thread. Motul 300V Chrono 10W40, if money is not a problem ($99 for 4L in most places). 300V is the only oil in the world (which im aware of) that uses double Ester's and Motul was the first oil company to use Ester based technology. Seriously the fact that this oil thread is up to 49 pages is a bit of a joke. If you are on a modest budget use something like Motul's 4100 Range, Castrol Edge, Royal Purple etc. If you dont care how much you spend on oil, use 300V. Simple as that. Thread closed

Lol no worries man, i kind of thought u were kidding with the $2000 part, but thought i would make sure

In all seriousness Trent, have you driven this car or been for a drive in this car on the street? When it hits boost and makes that 800+hp in 1000rpm, do you actually see into the future? That thing would have to chirp 5th!!

Wow this thread got extremely heated over the last day! The % loss drivetrain issue over a fixed amount has been debated to death! Keep it on topic, i don't want to see this thread locked

Hmm doubt it but you never know. Most likely the cradel bushes are worn and causing the diff to move slightly. Most skylines have worn cradle bushes after so many years of use. However yeah it could be the diff itself.

Yeah definetely should be making more power on that boost. Have you got a boost vs rpm graph to chuck up? Just wondering wether it's not holding boost properly.

GT35R full boost by 3000-3500RPM......umm no, where the hell did you read that?

Thats insane Trent, congratulations on the tune, keep hearing great things from your work

Your kidding right? They are 100% the same. If you dont believe me have a look here: http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-controller

ECU is the same on series 1 and series 2 100%.

Or G-Reddy!!! Its GReddy!! One word!!! So annoying!!

Boobs........boobs.......two girls......boobs...... Huh? Oh sorry yeah umm what were we talking about, i was too distracted by your display pic

Have you definetely put the vacuum hoses into the correct ports on the solenoid (internal wastegate one)? Also have you removed the plastic plug on the extra port on the solenoid?

On the stock turbo i think you can bring it onto a little bit of boost, 1-2psi, but most cars with a larger turbo you can't bring it onto boost without putting it under load.

So therefore a big turbo should be highmounted, because a big penis should be showed off?

I got pretty drunk off corona's the other night, good beer.

*Sits back and waits for thread to turn into fast and furious qoutes*

He only made 220kw on a hks turbo with cams on a rebuilt Neo...... I'd be taking it back regardless how fast it feels, that aint right.

Hahahaha nice.

Lol, please don't.

Because i am drunk and bored....... Say current price of BP ultimate $1.60, therefore 2 cents gets you 0.032Litres Say fuel tank takes 65L, therefore need to do the 2 cents thing 2031.25 times. Say one time takes you 30 seconds to fill up, walk in, talk to attendent and walk out again to start again, therefore it takes 60937.5 seconds. Which is equal to 16.927 hours. There is your answer. You just wasted 5 minutes of my life. Thanks.

Haha so true. Get ppl in work all the time with stock commodores or something saying yeah just got the car tuned, runs so much better now....

Lol fair enough. I have 2 sets of the foglight/indicator assembelies and have always wanted to do this.

Does the car idle fine? Or does it hunt around a bit? Get some one to rev the car in neutral and stick your head near the SMIC and listen if you can hear a leak. If the intercooler is the only thing you have touched, then your problem lies there.