PM-R33

Motul Turbolight 4100 or if you can afford it Motul Chrono 300V.

Shouldn't be more than 4k with a built engine with tomei internals including parts and labour.......i really doubt that Unless you mean labour will be 4k.

Fark me!! That's a good price for the kit. If these are still for sale after the new year some time ill get back to you.

So you agree that it's all in the ECU and that once the Microtech is in it should fix it all? This is the only thing that i can pinpoint it too. When you say im playing with fire, can it do much damage running it like that on the stock ECU? Like other than it running rich and retarding the timing, it doesn't seem to be knocking and aslong as i dont keep it above 6grand it doesnt overboost, so should it be allright for a little while longer? I'm looking at the microtech within the next month or two.

Tried that, tuner said he couldn't tune it because of the amount of the boost skyrocketing. Looks like ill just have to get the Microtech ASAP.

Hmmm well i dont actually have the stock boost solenoid, it should be somewhere around the house though so i can try to find it. You reckon that will help it?

Woops i ment veteran, where the hell did i get elite from lol. Half the game, thats pretty impressive!! I'm starting to do a few levels now, but some are just impossible to do.

It is worth it, the car line up and the graphics make it worth it alone. Game play is really nice and realistic aswell and i like the way how you have to build different cars for different events instead of having just one car doing it all. Definetely go buy it

Hey guys, Been having this problem for the last few months now and it's seriously giving me the shits. I'm running a stock ECU (for the time being until i get some money together for a Microtech) and a HKS GT-RS turbo (list of other mods down below). Now the problem is with boost. Boost comes on nicely up to 0.5bar at about 2500rpm or so, then it very slowly goes up to 1.0bar at 6000rpm. From 6000rpm to 7000rpm it starts skyrocketing up to about 1.5bar. Im pretty sure if i didnt have a revlimiter it would keep climbing in boost. Now i've read hundreds of threads on boostproblems/boost creep and a lot of people have problems with this so i've tried all the logical things that it could be: 1. Actuator: It's HKS one set to its longest point which should be 14psi, however when disconnected and the flap is wired all the way open it still makes boost, at about 4000rpm it kicks is and once again nearly up to 1-1.5bar, it goes so quick i cant tell the exact boost it reaches. So it's not actuator related. 2. Dump pipe: Boost control is sometimes altered by the setup of the dump pipe, either it sucking the flap open, or keeping it shut. Now i used to have a split BOS importing dump pipe and it used to do it, now i've changed into an all in one bellmouth X-Force dump pipe and it is still doing it. So it can't be the dump. So everything points to the standard ECU either retarding the timing that much that it is somehow affecting boost, no idea how this could work but it's the only thing i have to go on. Has any one had any experience running a bigger turbo on a stock ECU. Is the change of plenum and turbo too much for a stock ECU to handle?? I really hope the Microtech will solve it, but if it doesn't im still going to have this problem. Why won't it hold 14psi!!!! And why does it take so long for it to reach 14psi?? It's like it's doing 2 opposite things, taking ages to make boost, then suddenly making heaps of boost. Any help or input would be great. Thanks

Absolutely love this game!! Best game out on PS3 i reckon. Has anyone finished any levels on Elite yet? F**k me dead it's hard on elite!! I'm so happy there are some good games finally out on the PS3 The last year that it's been out there has barely been anything worth buying on it.

Yeah i know, how awesome is that. First time i've ever seen a Series II in a video game. I don't think even Gran Turismo ever had a series II. But yeah played the game for ages last night and finally got some nice cars. I'm loving this, can't stop playing it!!

Got mine today Heaps of nice cars and it handles pretty well, lot more realistic than the older NFS's. What is with the drift though?? I can barely control it, it's so different than Carbon. Maybe i just need more practice. I still think Juiced 2 has the best drifting so far.

Yeah definetely have to agree with that. Being sold through a dealership here in Aus makes it a lot better for the GTR's image instead of it being another "Import" that people always look so negative towards. The type of people that actually have that kind of money usually want something with a warranty that they can buy brand new.

Yeah that's what im trying to find out. I know the lt-12 is the older model of the lt-12s, but im not really sure whats different about it. Either way im pretty interested. Is it in good condition, as in its not f***ed? lol

I dont even get what this thread is about.....

Just wondering, would it be safe to do that in his case, like i mean without having a wideband O2 sensor, you really have no idea how much you need to correct it by. Let us know if you end up putting those settings in and what kind of difference it feals like it made.

Out of curiousity, why would you want to keep the variable cam timing? Doesn't it cause a bit of problems trying to tune with it for high horsepower applications? Like i hear about a lot of cars that push around 250-300 at the wheels and don't bother retaining the cam timing by either not tuning with it, or replacing the cam gear or cam. Can some one shed some light on this? Cheers.

With the Dec-Air settings i remember reading some where in the FAQ/Tutorial section a post of someones settings to fix a car with an atmo BOV from stalling. I tried it on mine but just made the car drive like a bitch when slipping the clutch, kept jerking the car. F**king SAFC's, i want my microtech

Thanks man

Glad i bought the GT-RS.....

Nope ECU's are the same. Well maybe there are slight differences, maybe a slightly different map or something, but a series 1 ECU will run a series 2 and vice versa.

Nope, it's all good mate. ECU's are the same for series 1's and series 2's. It will still run it, pretty much the ignitors are controlled by the ECU and are built into the coilpacks, hence why series 1's and 2's take different coilpacks.

Hahahahahahhhahahah! F**k you make me laugh dude! Can we like give you some sort of Skylines Australia Funniest C**t Award or something? Every single time i read one of your posts i piss myself laughing, keep up the good work

This thread has turned into some pretty funny crap lol