PM-R33

I'm pretty sure they are the FG rails. Here is a photo of it when it was mounted in my car. Hope it gives you a ruff idea of the seating position, but yeah it is a lot lower, it's just a really tight seat and i could just fit into it and im reasonably thin, so yeah just make sure you can fit in one.

BAHAHHAAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAH that is one of the funniest posts i have ever read in my life!

Finally got some pics of mine with the rims on the other day.

LOL! Weight saving, gold! But seriously, it has actually been done before, pretty sure GT N1K (Wise sports wide body kit Autosalon isuue 30 something i believe) had it done, didn't look to bad. I love that car so much

My mate has one in his car, we chucked it in my car for a bit, you sit a lot lower, probably about 5-10cm i would say. Very nice seat to drive in, however it is really tight..... i mean really tight! Getting in and out of it is also pretty embarrasing because it's a fixed back and you have to dislocate half your joints to get out lol. But yeah its a nice seat, i just hope your really thin lol

Cutting wire 53 removes the speed limit and no it doesn't get rid of your Hicas, whoever told you that is an idiot, its the speed signal wire and the Hicas diagnostic wire. From your gearbox you have a speed signal wire into your dash, then from your dash to the Hicas computer in the boot and to the ECU in the kickpanel. With it cut your car will do about 230-240 with basic mods. The reason people say that you get rid of the 180 speed limit with aftermarket computers is because aftermarket computers don't have this feature built into them. Another reason why people say that the SAFC or RSM removes the speed limiter is because they use the speed signal wire......which most people cut and wire to the SAFC or RSM, see the pattern here? It's all to do with that one wire.

Off of nengun they vary in price from about $5500-$6500 depending on what size bore you want (86.5mm-87.5mm) and wether you want cooling channels. This includes forged pistons, rods, counter crank and oil jet spacers. Good price for this kit if you ask me and not many people do it on the RB25's, so it's something a bit different then going the RB30 route. I wouldn't mind doing it one day

LOL why is it every thread ends up with fast and the furious qoutes?? Come on people get with the times, Fast and Furious Tokyo Drift qoutes are sooo better. "You know what DK stands for?" "Donkey Kong?"

No idea what mechanics normally charge for that, but i reckon that's a rip off mate. Go get another qoute from someone else. New coolant change is bugger all. Thermostat wouldn't be more than $50, unless it's like a Nismo item or something. Now for the hose im not sure, but hell a braided line with fittings would only be like $150-$200. So all up i would say around $400 max with labor, depending how they go about changing the turbo coolant line, assuming they take the turbo off it may be a bit more. But yeah, i still reckon $900 is a rip off, atleast i wouldn't be paying that much. Hope that helps

You'd be suprised, a lot of people do think it does actually help though. Only way i can see it helping is in a high horsepower application where people want to halve the amount of airflow through each filter..... no idea why though, maybe because the filter doesn't flow that much..... dont know? But yeah, i get a few people through work asking about dual pod filter set ups.

Think of it this way, if you have no piping or filter or anything on ur turbo, just the turbo intake (like drag cars run), then ur turbo sucks in as much air as it needs. If you have a pipe coming off of this turbo(providing its the same size pipe as the turbo inlet), it still sucks the same amount of air, just at the end of the pipe. Now regardless what you put on the end of this pipe, single filter, two filters, or whatever, it is still sucking the same amount of air. If that doesn't make sense think of it as a human sucking through a straw, single big straw, u suck up as much as you can and it's your lung capacity (ie the turbo) that limits how much you can suck, sucking through two straws, doesn't magically allow you to suck double the amount of air, just means half is going through each straw. So yeah, two pods will not help

Hmmmm thats very interesting indeed maybe that's got something to do with it then.

Don't flare the guards, it will look crap unless it's done really well by someone that knows what they are doing. But yeah the rims will look really good man

Yeah i've never heard of it either Pedro, doesn't really make sense how a car running on a rich and retarded map would somehow cause the exhaust gases to go through the turbine instead of going through the wastegate. At the end of the day exhaust gases are just basic fluid mechanics, go through the path of least resistance, usually being the wastegate when it's open. So to me, any major overboost problem is caused by the wastegate pipe no longer being the path of least resistance, wether it's caused by turbulance or something else? Has anyone had a major overboost problem, not talking about 1-2psi and found a way to fix it??

Well said mate

Could it make it overboost that high from just the standard map

Hmmm well i guess in your situation the dump pipe isn't the cause of it. I reckon in my case its the turbulance in the split dump in the place where it joins is that its not flowing into it and causing back pressure through the wastegate. This means that the exhaust gases go the path of least resistance through the turbine housing. I might try to get an all in one dump pipe with no split, or just make mine into a screamer, which i dont really want to do....

Actually scratch what i just said above! My car is still doing it!!! Went for a spin then with the actuator disconnected and still hits around 20psi!! I had the dump pipe fixed the other day and the wastegate doesn't hit on it anymore so i thought it was sweet but after going for a test then its still doing it. Looks like im still in the same boat as you buddy. So does anyone know what F***ing causes this?? Is it that the split dump pipe can't flow enough gases through the 1.5" wastegate pipe or what?

I had the same problem as you man, turned out the dump pipe i had on my stock turbo wasn't the right size for the new turbo and the wastegate flap would hit the inside of the dump pipe when it opened and blocked it off. This ment that it would overboost something crazy just like you said. I ended up getting the wastegate pipe enlarged so the flap could fully open. Disconnect your actuator and then open the flap and listen if it hits the dump pipe before it is all the way open.

Yeah that's ment to be the cup holder. Maybe the Japs hold their noodles in a square cup

Yeah it's pretty amazing how cheap they are getting these days. As soon as uni finishes in a few years.......

I've still got my stock clutch.......not saying its good though lol

Does any one else notice that little kids that can barely count, some how know what a skyline is and yell out "Skyline!" Or is it just me? I love my car because she is sexy and sounds like a Jet

You want to jump from an integra that probably had barely enough power to spin the wheels, to something with 300kw @ the wheels.......are you suicidal man? 13 11 14 24 National Suicide Crisis Hotline