PM-R33

YOU DROVE A Z TUNE????

Hmmm, the reason i asked about the RB20 ECU on a series II is because one of my mates is a tuner and has a spare RB20 ECU that he could put an RB25 map on and tune it for me. At the moment my car is hitting boost cut/ airflow cut (whatever the hell you want to call it) at 4000rpm on 1 bar of boost on my HKS turbo. I have 2 options that are possible to do at the moment: 1) Modify a standard actuator to fit the HKS turbo instead of the HKS adjustable actuator and run less boost to avoid the boost cut. 2) Remapped RB20 ECU to get rid of the boost cut and be able to tune it. Now i know that a full ECU replacement is the best choice, and i will be doing that in the future, just dont have the funds at the moment so im looking at only the 2 above solutions. So yeah thats my problem at the moment, if i can get the RB20 ECU to run on the series II its going to solve the boost cut problem, because at the moment its giving me the sh*ts.

Pretty much what i remember reading a little while ago is because series 1 has an external ignitor for the coil packs and series 2 doesn't, a remapped RB20 ECU wont run on a series 2 unless you run an external ignitor. Hmmm i guess i might just do some searching.

While on the topic just a quick question because i can't be bothered searching through 100 posts. You can't run an RB20 remapped ECU on an RB25 Series 2 because of the internal ignitor, correct???

Well the car went in for a tune the other day, and at about 4000-4500rpm on full throttle, it hits full boost which for some reason is around 16psi? (i thought the HKS actuators were about 0.9BAR) and hits airflow cut really badly. It is pretty much like a rev limiter at 4000-4500rpm. So no tune was actually done on the SAFC, so it was a complete waste of money So now im going to do what i should have done in the first place and go a full ECU replacement, which im still not 100% sure on what to get.

Hmmm i totally agree with this statement. I've witnessed a couple of cop chases on streets and they are a hell of a lot more dangerous than a drag race which as said, is usually a straight road. Not saying that this justifies anything, but you have to think about it. If some one knew that if they pull over their car that they may have spent 10s of thousands of dollars on, is going to be 100% confiscated and crushed but have a small chance of getting away if they simply put their foot down, most people will try to run.

+1 For Plazmaman! I love mine, and the craftsmanship is amazing

I wonder how they actually found that guy though? Makes you think, who in their right mind would go on national television and say they went 290km/h!! Then again he did seem like an imbred of some sort, maybe he should stop sleeping with his sister....

Just disconnect the negative terminal and it will be fine. Wont affect anything other than resetting your clock

FIXED IT!! Thanks for all the replies guys lol After a few days of reading threads and checking everything in the car, i somehow fixed it. Still not too sure how, but i pretty much trailed back the road speed signal wire back to the HICAS ecu in the boot and made sure there were no shorts. Pulled on the wires and stuff like that. Disconnected the battery, did a ECU reset by pumping the brakes, took out the ECU and pulled on all the wires and taped them all up really tight, then put it all back together and hey presto, no more HICAS failure and the turbo timer was displaying speed again. Well im happy, hope this maybe helps some one in the future.

We went over the car last night and checked over all the wiring and everything and still couldn't find what's causing it. This is really starting to give me the sh*ts! The only thing we found that didn't make sense is that the road speed signal wire, when tested on the multimeter, was receiving a strong earth :S How could this wire be earthing out somewhere? Does anyone know where the road speed signal wire goes from the ECU? Is it onto the speedo in the gauge cluster? F**king Hicas!

Hey guys, Need some urgent help! Yes, another HICAS problem. Yesterday i installed my SAFC into my R33 and then went for a drive. Everything on the SAFC worked fine but then after a couple of minutes of driving, heavy steering and HICAS light came on. Dammit!! Now i know what hicas is and everything and that the reason the light comes on is it doesn't get a road speed signal from the ecu or something like that. Now my speedo in my dash still works fine, however the speedo on my Greddy turbo timer no longer works. This gives me the idea it has something to do with WIRE 53 on the ecu which is the 180 speed limit/hicas diagnostics wire etc because this is the wire hooked up onto the Greddy turbo timer giving the speed read out. Now during installation all the wires used for the SAFC have nothing to do with HICAS or anything like that so what the hell is going on? Why has this happened now? What is causing my HICAS to malfunction? I checked all fluids for power steering, checked the fuse in the boot for HICAS, checked all the wires on the ecu etc, all seem fine and iv'e never had any problems with the HICAS light before so it has to be something electrical that happened during installation. I did a search for hicas and everything but they are all for R32s and usually a snapped speedo wire, but i couldn't really find something that answered my particular situation. Any help would be greatly appreciated as i've asked a lot of people and read about 30 threads and still no answer. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=ecu++hicas This is the closest thread i could find, however was a R32 and had a snapped speedo wire. Any one got some ideas? Thanks.

Hey Abu, Thanks a lot for your reply, greatly appreciated! If i get 220-230 ill be a very happy man At the moment ive got the GT-RS running on its stock boost pressure, which is about 0.9 bar but ill tell my tuner to give it more boost if he thinks it can handle it. Modifications are exactly what you listed plus a Plazmaman intake plenum. It's booked in for next wednesday morning so we will see how it goes. Did they adjust your timing at all when it got tuned? Thanks man Phil

Ok well i got my SAFC today, and ill install it tomorrow. Next week the car is going in for a tune. Was just wondering what kind of settings or "set ups" with timing etc were people using to get around 220-230+ at the wheels? Any litttle tricks or something would be good to know, ie what a/f ratios did people find to work best at certain rpm with what timing advance or retard etc. Im sure my tuner will know what to do, but i thought if i happened to pick something up on here that i could tell him, may end up helping. Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially from abu, darkon and sweetr33 as they got some awesome results from stock injectors Cheers.

Good choice mate

LOL @ thread not being closed yet. We should make a new section in this forum called "Do you want a supercar that costs the amount of a small country at the age of 15? Then please post here so we can bring you back to reality because the crack you are on must be really good."

I hate c**ts that egg cars! Deserve to be beaten to death. On a more lighter note, try Meguiars Scratch X, it's the best stuff i have used to get deep scratches out unless it is completely down to the metal, which in that case only new paint can fix.

Quick some one lend me $1500!!!!!! I really need one *looks at stuff around room he could sell.....* Thats not a bad price these days considering it's brand new.

Well ill be damned, i never knew i had a skyline GTR vspec diff! I always wondered why no one i knew had the A-LSD and SLIP lights on the dash.

What top speed do you reckon he would have hit with his current mods? 230km/h-240km/h? What are our cars actually capable of top speed wise with the speed limiter removed? (If any one comes on here and starts getting up me for talking about high speed because it can hurt the whales or some sh*t im gonna kick them in the balls lol)

Yeah, ill run the SAFC as far as i can go on the stock injectors until they start maxing out. After that ill have to save up for some bigger injectors and probably a power FC if i can even get my hands on one (dam apexi ). Ill probably get the car tuned some time next week and see how i go. Ill post up with how i go, should be interesting.

Hahahahaha cheers mate

How did this go? What top speed you hit?

Hahah that is awesome! Bloody tree hugging hippies got owned

Legaly you have to have a sealed battery because it is in the boot which isnt well ventilated. A sealed century DIN53L for about $140 will do the job nicely, but you will have to change your terminals for larger ones which isn't really a big deal.