PM-R33

I've seen those, never was to sure if they worked ok though?

That's what I used wasn't it? A washer and two shims?

One more bump.

True that on both points.

Well the ones advertised go from $300-$500 plus freight. So if they did make a Skyline one (they might not have access to one) then I would say a similar price.

Yeah I get ya, no idea why the manual would say that method?

Cheers will have a look

Very nice, those are huge lol. They were $1850 delivered from the group buy. Yep plently of clearance. Bleeding was the same as normal. My street tyres are the limiting factor so looking forward to getting some semi slicks next to see how they truely perform. Should go allright.

You DO NOT release the pedal. Yes air will get in. It goes: Person 1: Pump pedal few times until it goes hard and hold close to floor * Person 2: Crack open bleed nipple and close. Person 1: Release pedal. REPEAT. *You shouldn't actually go all the way to the floor as you can damage the master cylinder.

Cut the hole for the VCT and you are good to go (with a bit of a trim of the RB25 timing backing plate).

Hahaha yeah that was a pain in the ass to get central. Took me a few attempts of trial and error to get the correct amount of shim thickness. Did you use the same amount as me or did you have to use a different amount?

Well let me know if you find out if one of the other guys got two drivers sides, if not we will have to contact Daryl and see what we can do. God damnit why does shit like this always happen!

Looks great! Could you post up a picture from the inside of the bonnet?

Oh really?!

UPDATE I HAVE THE TRACKING NUMBER!! So now just gotta wait for a tracking number for the footrests from Japan. He sent them an email last night so see how that goes.

Yeah same. Doesn't effect me money security wise. Just pisses me off that some one elses choice to "get back" at Sony instead pisses millions of other people off and puts the whole company in jeporady.

Need a hell of a lot more info to answer such a vague question. But yes, you will feel a 35HP shot, mainly due to the fact it will ramp your boost on a hell of a lot earlier. Most setups a shot of nitrous will bring full boost on the instant it is hit.

If it constantly sits on zero, even on idle the gauge is not working. Could either by a faulty gauge or as simple as the vacuum line in the engine bay being broken (in which case you will most likely have a vacuum leak).

DIY is up http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362526-diy-skyline-front-big-brake-install/

One other thing that I wanted to mention was weight My factory calipers with pads (that were well worn compared to new) came in at around 4.2kg each. The Wilwoods with brand new pads that are twice the size of normal pads came in at around 3.7kg each. My RDA rotors of 296mm x 30mm that were once again worn came in at around 9.6kg each. The Wilwood 330mm x 32mm two piece rotors fully assembled came in at around 8.5kg each. The other extra weight came in at the two extra bolts, washers and shims, however due to removing some of the factory dust shield, those weights roughly cancelled out. So all up, not only is it a much larger brake kit, it also comes in at a total weight saving of around 3.2kg of unsprung mass!

Whole kit that I put together for a group buy on these forums. 6 Piston calipers 330mm rotors. I just wrote the DIY up so should be up shortly.

This DIY write up is on how to install a front big brake kit on a Nissan Skyline. Most models are pretty much the same in terms of brake upgrades with only minor differences. The particular brake kit I will be installing is the Wilwood kit that I put together for the group buy. Most larger aftermarket brake kits for a Skyline will be very similar so this should be helpful for anyone doing an upgrade. Items required Rags Plastic container to catch old brake fluid Loctite New brake fluid WD40 Hammer Flat head screwdriver Assorted spanners and sockets (mainly imperial for the Wilwoods) Flare nut spanners Tin snips or angle grinder Black spray paint File Toque wrench Allen keys 5/6-24 tap and accesories Wilwood Kit Contents Wilwood Billet Superlite 6 Piston Calipers Wilwood Billet Caliper Adaptors Wilwood 330mm x 32mm Slotted rotors Wilwood Aluminium hats D41 20mm Brake Pads Hel Braided Brake Lines WARNING Installing a brake upgrade such as this can be dangerous if done incorrectly. I hold no responsibility for your actions. This is merely a guide and if you do not feel comfortable following it seek a professional. PREPERATION I suggest getting the calipers, rotors, pads and brackets ready first prior to ever touching the car. There are two reasons for this. The first is that your hands are clean and therefore it is safer to handle everything and the second is so you can make sure you have all the tools necessary prior to pulling your car apart. Having it all laid out on a towel inside makes for a comfortable way to get everything ready. There is nothing worse than having your car pulled apart in a million pieces and then realising you didnt buy something you needed. ROTOR PREPERATION So lets first start with getting the two piece rotors ready. The first problem with a lot of two piece rotors is the threads in the hats get filled with paint during powder coating. This makes it nearly impossible to get the bolts to go in. Do not force the bolts to try and go in. If there is a lot of resistance you will need to tap the threads. This is not as hard as it sounds. For the Wilwoods a 5/16"-24 hand tap needs to be used on each hole. Gently guide the tap into each hole until it catches. Do this from the inside as this is the direction the bolts will be going in. Do not force it in because you may end up cross threading. Once you feel it going in just use some pressure to go through. You don't need to go all the way since the bolts only go in about 3/4 of the way. You will see that the holes are no longer black inside but now silver. I also suggest having something placed underneath to catch all the aluminium shards that will get cut out. Once all the holes are done align the rotor and hat to ensure all the holes line up and that the hat sits flat on the rotor. Then begin to insert the bolts by hand in a star pattern so equal force is applied in all areas. I found the easiest way to do this is to sit the rotor on its side and hold the hat with one hand and the bolts with the other. Remember that the bolts go in from the rear. Once they are all hand tightened and everything appears to sit correctly you may begin to remove one bolt at a time, apply some Loctite to the bolt and then tighten them with an allen key. One again do this in a star pattern so equal pressure is applied to all bolts. Don't fully tighten them yet. Now get a torque wrench and tighten them to around 29Nm. Once the rotors are done we can move on to the calipers. CALIPER PREPERATION For the calipers themselves the only thing that needs to be done is to apply the shims onto the brake pads and insert them into the rotor. I would first suggest trial fitting the brake pads in to see if they sit correctly. Do this by undoing the long bolt that holds them in place on the top of the caliper. Once removed simply slide the pads in from the top. You will feel them slightly lock in around the edges. Here you can also notice what area of the brake pad comes in contact with the caliper pistons, that way you can see where abouts to apply the shims. Remove the pads out from the caliper and apply the shims. These are just stick on ones that have a plastic backing on them that is just removed. Once stuck onto the brake pad place the brake pads back into the caliper and position the long bolt back into place. For the time being do not fully tighten the bolt as we will do this once the calipers are on the car (just in case you need to remove them). Next thing is to make sure the bolts supplied go into the caliper adaptors without needing to tap them aswell. In this instance these were fine with only a slight resistance in two of the four holes; they didnt need to be tapped though. That basically covers all the preparation needed. If everything appears to be good you can begin to jack up the car! VEHICLE INSTALL Once the car is off the ground and both front wheels are off you can begin removing the factory brake setup. You can begin by either removing the brake lines or by removing the calipers. I choose to remove the calipers first to ensure everything else went on correctly without losing brake fluid. This would allow me to easily put everything back together if I had discovered that something didnt fit correctly or if I had wheel clearance issues. Before removing anything, spray the brake lines and the bolts holding the calipers on with plenty of WD40 and let it soak in for a few minutes. If you havnt had your brakes off for a long time these bolts can be pretty tight and are easily rounded. I also recommend using proper flare nut spanners to detach the brake lines. These nuts are very easy to round. You have been warned. Once everything is soaked remove the caliper and brake lines from the car (as said I left my brake lines on till the last minute). I wont go into to much detail on the brake line removal due to my other DIY. So just have a look here for more information regarding the brake lines. Braided Brake Line Install DIY Once your calipers are free from the car slide the rotor off. It can be slightly rusted on so just give it a bit of a forceful pull and it will come off. Here is a comparison of the RDA rotors I had on there and the Wilwood ones. This reveals the dust cover for the rotors. Unfortunately due to the larger rotors, this will get in the way. There are three options. The first option is to trim the edge of it back with some tin snips, the second is to trim the whole thing off and the third is to remove the hub and take the whole thing off. This third step can cause more dramas than it is worth so I choose not to go that route. Instead I decided to leave the dust cover in place and simply trim the edges with some tin snips. It is surprisingly easy to cut. Once it is cut off, place your new rotor on to ensure there is proper clearance. Use some of your lug nuts to hold the rotor in place as it can move around quite a bit. Once it is cut I filed back the edges so it wasnt sharp and sprayed it with some black paint to avoid it rusting. This isnt really required but it just neatens it up a bit and avoids possibly rusting. I would also suggest cleaning up the hub a bit. You can hit it with a steel wire drill bit or some sand paper if you are keen. I just cleaned it up with some wax and grease remover and it seemed to be allright. If it feels a bit rough then do a proper tidy up of it. Now it is time to move onto the caliper adaptors. In the wildwood kit they supply you with metric black bolts to go into your hub and imperial gold bolts to go into the caliper. For the time being just hand tighten them into place (dont worry about washers and shims for the time being) so you can bolt the caliper on. This step is to ensure that your wheels do not foul on the brakes. Last thing you want is putting it all together, thinking you have finished and discovering that the wheel hits the caliper. Hand tighten the bolts going into the hub, place the rotor back into position if you have removed it and now begin by sliding the caliper on top of the rotor. It will be a very tight fit so a bit of force might be necessary. Once in place align the caliper bracket at the rear of the caliper and hand tighten the remaining two bolts. Place your wheel into position and check for any clearance issues. Mine had plenty of room. If everything is good you can begin getting everything correct for proper installation. You will notice that without using the shims, the rotor will be impossible to rotate by hand. This is because the caliper is not correctly aligned due to the caliper adapator. Every car will be a little bit different but for mine I found that the three shims were just slightly not enough. So instead I used one of the supplied washers and two shims. This gave a perfect amount. I reused the factory spring washer as a replacement for the washer that I just used. These shims will go between the caliper adaptor and the hub only, you will see straight away how it moves caliper into position. Once fitted test correct alignment by rotating the rotor by hand. It should be fairly smooth to rotate. There may be some resistance from the brake pads but it should be possible to rotate it as many times as you want. If not and there is a large resistance, then you may need to use slightly less or slightly more shims. Have a look at the caliper adaptor and see if it is straight. A larger amount of shims will push the caliper angle towards the drivers side and less shims will push it at an angle towards the passenger side. If everything is aligned properly remove each bolt individually and apply some loctite to the area where is sits in the threads. Have a look where that is by looking at the remaining bolt. Then tighten up to around 60Nm. Now tighten up the long bolt that holds the brake pads in place with an allen key and a spanner that I mentioned to leave undone at the start. The last thing to do is to install the brake lines. Once again refer to the other DIY for more information. And thats it! Have a breather for a while and do the other side. The other side will take half the time now that you know exactly what to do. Then fill the brake fluid back up and bleed the brakes. Remember that there is bleed points on each side of these calipers for better bleeding. Here is a nice before and after shot for comparison. WARNING Before driving the car triple check that every bolt is tightened! For the first drive go around the block very slowly testing the brakes to make sure they work! If at any point in time you lose braking use the hand brake to slow you down. If everything is fine then go out somewhere to bed the brakes in. There are a few different methods so I wont go into that, just do whatever you have normally been taught. Phil

Yep 6000k really is about the limit without risking getting pulled up.

AND IM DONE! Just waiting on the missus to come home from uni so she can help me bleed the brakes lol. In the mean time I'll start writing the DIY up. Went fairly smoothly. Also was very impressed with the weight! Will reveal all in the write up

Just finished installing my babies Will test drive them tonight but I dare say my shitty front tyres will not like them. Definetely gotta get some KU36's on the bitch asap.