PM-R33

Hahahaha they aint that bad The only bad thing is there isn't much adjustment with only changing one bush Did you just change the one set (upper from memory)?

I think you mean the castor rod, not the swaybar. (the swaybar is the silver one in the picture). On full lock mine doesn't touch, I checked that when installing. I know in that picture from that angle it kind of looks close but there is actually a bit of room. If yours does touch that leads me to think that perhaps it is due to your car being slightly lower than my car? Perhaps if it was slightly raised it wouldn't? Not sure but I suppose it does make sense given that the suspension geometry tucks inwards (negative camber) and would bring the caliper closer to the castor rod.

PM sent.

Hahahahaha.

I just have a missile switch to engage rotational idle/anti lag. Does some hard core bangs and flames lol.

Or a photo of both of our cars next to each other both shooting flames

Rob no! You gotta bring the 180!

Oh nice! Now hurry up and fit them so we can see pics

GTST, GTR, GTS, Silvia etc. They basically all run the same.

Screen shot of the PM with users details and yours or it never happened.

BAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA! Even though I know he is trolling again it is still funny because there may be a slight chance that he is serious.

Crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, same shit lol.

Ah ok fair enough, that makes sense.

Looking good man, subscribed. Quick question regarding the handbrake, you mentioned you can't use it while in motion, so you do have one though? How did you make that work?

The accelerator pedal from the R34 GTR V-spec 2 was also fitted to the Nissan 380RS (Nismo 350Z). Since he mainly deals with the 350Z community that's what they refer to the pedal as.

Well that doesn't really make sense. A boost controller stops air from going to the actuator by bleeding it to atmosphere. This in turn allows the wastegate to be shut for longer and therefore make more boost. With the boost controller set to doing nothing (off/0%) it will not bleed any air, and therefore it basically acts as though it wasn't even there, ie. running actuator spring pressure. Hence why you can't run less boost pressure than what the actuator spring can take, there is no way for it to do it.

Cheers for that So going off that 58%, say a R33 GTST weighed 1400kg, it would take moving around 112kg from the front to the rear of the vehicle to get close to a 50/50 weight distribution. Or removing 224kg from the front to get close to a 50/50 weight distribution. Or obviously a mixture of moving and removing. Crazy. Makes you really see how front heavy they are.

Well a boost controller can only run more boost than the wastegate/actuator allows. So disconnecting it will result in only running less boost.

Also make sure the crank angle sensor hasn't moved. If the timing is way out it will be rough.

Ahh very nice. Looks very aggressive!

Yeah my tune isn't complete either but doesn't matter.

Step 1. Pop bonnet Step 2. Find boost controller solenoid Step 3. Locate line going from actuator into boost controller solenoid and line going from boost controller solenoid into intercooler piping. Step 4. Disconnect lines and connect line directly from actuator into intercooler piping (essentially by passing the solenoid). Step 5. Remove boost controller solenoid - will have wiring going from it into the cabin of the car. Step 6. Remove all evidence of boost controller inside cabin.

Damn good amps the P400.4s, used to sell shitloads of them at my old work.

Only reason police would let you off is because they have no idea about the law. Hence why most people with aftermarket HID's get away with it - including me *knock on wood* Fact is the headlight is not designed to focus a xenon bulb, it is a reflector designed to focus a halogen bulb. So washers or not, doesn't change a thing, the light still scatters. The only way to make it PROPERLY legal is to fit xenon designed projectors (not projectors for halogen bulbs) and then see an optics engineer (or similar) to get the head lights tested. They will check the alignment, cut off pattern, installation and any other safety factors (including auto levelling and washers) and approve them. Every state would be different, might be a certificate, maybe a mod plate, I don't know, i'm not that type of engineer. At the end of the day a hell of a lot of work (and money for the approval) for something that 99% of people (not just police) would know about. So just run the HID's as they are and just hope you don't get done.