PM-R33

Will most likely be around 2-3 weeks from now. I can tell them to send yours out ASAP though.

Because obviously this is a serious thread and not some one taking the piss and the OP actually has a degree in engineering and is going to convert his engine to properly work on diesel.

Still not following you dude. What are you exactly halving the length of? Runners stay the same and you are swapping one plenum for another plenum which is larger. I don't see what is getting halved (or smaller for that fact).

Oh true, only QLD?! That sucks than. I believe they also don't do carbon fibre, only fibreglass.

Well that's exactly right. I'm not taking that away from them, they work.

Yep that is them. Only ones in Aus I believe.

I'm assuming you mean it is making peak boost around 1500rpm later than what it should? If there was any problem with the wastegate you would see it on the boost plot. If the wastegate is not holding shut properly your boost curve will be lazy. Something that can easily be seen during a dyno run on a graph. For the best boost response possible get the tuner to disconnect the hose from the actuator (and plug it up) and ramp the car up very carefully to see how quickly it ramps onto boost. Obviously you will have to back off as soon as your targer boost is reached as the car will have absolutely no boost control and will simply keep climbing in boost. Compare that boost plot to the one it normally runs and see if there is a large difference. There will be a slight difference but it should not be huge.

Looks really good man

Ash is right. I actually did a lot of research into these prior to doing the Wilwood group buy. I even got in contact with one of the guys in Taiwan that sends these kits out. From what I found they all pointed to a couple of factories in Taiwan that manufacture brake kits. Suppliers than sell them under their own name. There are even more brands (heaps more) that none of you guys would have heard of other than the commonly available G4/D2/K Sport that they trade under, such as Nashin, Kido, G force, JUN etc (see pic). Basically if you ordered a certain quantity as a supplier (for example 15 kits) you could get what ever colour, style of caliper and writing you wanted on them. Even some different choices in rotors. So for example white calipers with SAU written on them They could even do a 12 piston caliper kit with 400mm x 36mm rotors! If you knew the prices of some of these kits in larger quantites you wouldn't believe me. I even spoke to one of my mates about getting money together and designing our own kit to supply in Australia - but we weren't to keen to send $15,000+ to Taiwan lol. At the end of the day it wasn't something I was interested in but the proof is in the results, they work well.

Ummm do you mean a Greddy manifold? Plazmaman doesn't touch the runners. While getting to the oil filter is harder, it aint that big of a deal. The only thing that made mine harder is the extra braided lines teeing into the fuel lines for the nitrous being in the way.

Hahahahah +1

Yep that stuff above is a lot better as an insulator. As regards to aluminium I don't think it would insulate heat any better and may start to melt or burn if fairly thin (from memory aluminium has a much, much lower melting point). My setup is definetely not the best heatshield you can make, but easily noticable difference of under bonnet temps with it on or off (have had it on and off heaps of times in the past). Like I said, mine was mainly for looks and to atleast have some sort of shielding in that area.

Thanks guys. The hardest part of it was trying to do the curve by hand. Thick stainless steel doesn't like to bend lol.

^lol I will do another batch of these in two weeks time. Just want to get the first batch done and sorted.

Wrong.

Don't listen to half these idiots, they have no idea about the benefits of diesel and cooking oil. Just test it out on one of your parents cars. Put a mixture of cooking oil (I like the Coles brand, I find it gives better torque than the bigger name brands) and diesel in at the servo. You will want to get the car up to around 5000RPM and hold it there as soon as you leave the servo so the ECU can learn the new mixtures and recalibrate. The vehicle may jerk around a bit and make some funny noises but this is just the spark plugs readjusting for the new temperature of the diesel. If the jerking gets to rough you will have to give it more RPM, closer to 6000rpm. Why do you think V8 Supercars are so fast as they are, they know the secrets

I've been saying that for years now, Ash never listens to me

Don't reply to La Bomba's shit house threads.

People used to do that plenum modification years ago when there were bugger all upgrade options for the RB25DET and Neo. Nowadays there is absolutely no need to go down that route. I love my Plazmaman plenum and the only thing I would swap it for is a Hypertune plenum (but they don't do them for RB25's off the shelf).

It's basically the same deal as our Wilwood kits. They are not ADR approved (most overseas brake brands aren't - GREX, HKS etc), however can be engineered/mod plated if installed properly and legal brake lines used.

That's from last night.

I'd keep the Gias personally.

Definetely thermostat. Had the same thing happen to mine (and fair enough the thermostat was 100,000km old), replaced thermostat and good as gold.

Much better