PM-R33

Ok sent. What size?

She hot? If so perfectly understandable.

WTF? I'll email him to see how he sent them out. Maybe he used seperate boxes for everything due to weight. Any one else get their brake kit parts?

Ok I think I will update the first post with who is going and more details. There have been a few people that said they might go but havn't replied in the thread for a while. So will wait for them to let us know to see if anything has changed and then I will update the first page

Basically I similar idea that I had and posted about in here. Do it!

Let's use the "kind of know what's happening" very loosely lol.

Lol WHAT?! Just one brake caliper and one hat and that's all?! WTF!

So how many confirmed people do we have going? Any body been keeping score lol

Sexellent.

Hahaha I know the fealing man.

These pedals better help me get laid or make my car faster because if they don't it wasn't worth the wait!

Has to be the longest I have waited for a part full stop lol.

That's what I kept saying to him. I told him there was no way in hell it is still in transit and therefore he lied to me about it getting sent.

He replied saying he will go to the post office and find out what is happening. Not very reassuring.

Keep the purge kit. Basically purges out the old nitrous that has been sitting in the lines to get a newer shot ready. You don't have to have it venting in the air for every one to see. I have mine venting on the back of the intercooler so it atleast is beneficial. Also the venting on FF2 wasn't nitrous, it was a CO2 kit hence the huge clouds. Don't have it anywhere near your rev limiter. If you hit rev limiter and there is still nitrous injecting you will kill the motor. It is important to watch the pressure but it isn't the end of the world. What he said is true, however you will never have the pressure at a dangerous level unless you have the bottle sitting out in the sun. As the bottle empties, the pressure will get lower. Hence why people use bottle warmers to bring the pressure back up. Simply means the hit from the nitrous won't be as big when the pressure starts getting low. I don't run a bottle warmer for the time being. Might get one in the future. A gauge simply mounted on the bottle is more than adequate. If you want an electric one mounted inside the car those are available, however you can't convert your mechanical one into an electric one.

Cheers for that! Yeah looks way different to mine at the moment lol. Gives me a rough idea at least.

If the light is on, you have no LSD action. Simple as that. Under normal operation when one wheel loses traction the diff locks up to send power to the other wheel to gain traction. That's how it works in a nutshell (it is a bit more complicated than that). So if the light is on it means there is an error and the diff will not activate. Meaning once one wheel loses traction all power will go to that wheel (referred to as a single spinner). Has nothing to do with being able to get the car sideways or not. If anything it will allow it to get sideways easier as it will kick to one side (usually the back left will break lose). If you disconnected the battery and the light still comes on afterwards it means the error is still there and wasn't simply something that could be wiped. Did you check that there was fluid in the resevoir in the boot and did you check that the pumps underneath the car havn't had the plugs come out of them like I said in my first post?

Your power will fall off before 7000RPM regardless of bolt on mods on a NA RB25. If you want a decent increase in power on a RB25DE run nitrous, other wise I wouldn't even bother modding one past an exhaust/intake. Absolute waste of money for the tiny power increases.

That's very interesting, never thought about it like that! Yeah I set the ignition timing values fairly lowish to make sure it didn't ping. Definetely is doughy compared to back in the day on the Microtech tune haha. Will have to borrow a mates Kmon to do the timing properly. Atleast now I have a better idea of what kind of values to use. Wasn't really sure on what people use and I couldn't find a timing map that some one had tuned searching through the forums to get a better idea.

You can get a generic NACA carbon vent which is similar to the R34 GTR one. However the R35 GTR ones definetely look the nicest.

Done. First post has been updated with payments that have cleared into my account. Will update it as I receive payments.

Yep that's high. I did a full throttle log in third gear in the day today up to 7000rpm and it went from 82 to 83 degrees.

Shit. I got plenty of head room then. I havn't done much with ignition timing as it is still a bit of a grey area for me in terms of tuning by myself and I don't want to blow it up.

F*ck you lol. I sent a long email to Adam regarding these pedals taking far to long and I am not simply going to wait for them to rock up if I don't even have any proof that they sent them. The footrest was $80.84 when I priced them all up at Nissan.

Ok cool. Well at the moment mine is set to that first one. I have mine at around 14:1 at idle and it seems to like it. So 15:1 is allright for light load cruising? I started setting it up for around 15 for better economy but wasn't sure if that was a bit much. Basically finishing off the tuning on my car and want it running nicely. Have learnt a lot about using the Vipec and loving it more that I use it. The datalogging is a lot of help when doing it by yourself. At the moment going through all my logs to see how the tune is. Also in terms of ignition timing at light loads, 20-25 degrees is about what you guys run? I wish we had like a tuning section on the forums to learn as much as you can. There is bits here and there through Forced Induction but would be good to have it all in one place.