PM-R33

Yep RB25's are easy UNLESS you have Plazmaman plenum and nitrous fuel lines in the way lol. That's the only reason I want one. If I had a stock 25 I wouldn't bother.

People put them there to block off the blow of valve so they get reversion because they like the sound of it.

Little bit off topic but I didn't want to start a new thread. What target AFR do you guys normally run on closed loop idle and closed loop cruise? I'm setting my closed loop WB up at the moment for good fuel economy and was wanting to know how lean you guys go? For reference the car only ever runs 98 octane. Also for the Vipec it can run two closed loop modes. I read up on both and can't really determine what one would suit me better?

I don't think he ment NA's in general.

They say they have been shipped. But without supplying me a tracking number it doesn't make sense. Like I said, I hope to god they are here this week, but I am losing confidence in this.

Pretty sure he would be covering it and not leaving it as exposed MDF.

Well that certainly changes things a bit doesn't it.

Well than you can't get anything that you are banned from driving, regardless what you add/remove/change about it.

I had this idea a while ago and talked about it in the Empire Aero group buy thread. I'm worried because the vents have a slight curve in them near the top it won't fit properly into a flat bonnet.

No way this can be in Australia. 86?

BHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Nope lol. Gotta love dealing with overseas suppliers.

Strange. When the HICAS gets an error and the light comes on your steering usually goes heavy due to it being wired up together. The diff you won't really notice other than trying to put power down, will throw all power to one wheel (easy test to do a burnout). Try disconnecting your battery for a little while and then connecting it back up. It resets any error codes that may be stored (like from shorting out a wire) and can sometimes return everything to normal.

Dude grow up for fucks sake. It's the internet. If this site is so useless why would you come back?

There would be no point what so ever.

Righteo if HICAS light and A-LSD light came on it means it's an electrical problem. Given that you said you played around with some wires I dare say you either shorted something out without realising it or accidentelly cut a wire. When the HICAS light came on you lost power steering aswell? Sounds like you may have damaged the speed signal wire or the TPS wire or something like that.

Not this shit again. For fucks sake!

+1 You can now get them for under $500 delivered if you look right.

Don't know what the Stagea one is like to install, but obviously it would be different. Just as the Silvia one is different. The Walbro is a lot easier to install than the Bosch that is for sure. Definetely not as easy as the Tomei/Nismo one given that you literally pull the entire old fuel pump assembely out of the fuel tank and put the new unit in and plug it back in and you are done. The Walbros are a lot more sensitive to flow rates vs voltage and therefore some cars require rewiring to ensure they get 14V. As I said, if you are confident in what you are doing get the cheaper fuel pump. I am just saying the Tomei/Nismo is worth the money given how reliable and easy the install is. Your choice.

Yeah you would have bought a RB20 inlet cam in those specs. Basically the cams are exactly the same other than the end where the VCT gear bolts on. So really you could have just kept the VCT and bought the exact same camshaft you have but made for a RB25 VCT inlet.

Sweet

Completely wrong. They are "top shelf" because they directly replace the factory fuel pump in the exact location and are a direct plug and play. Walbro and Bosch are not and require a lot of dicking around to get right. Especially for some one that has never done one. You will most likely install it to high and get fuel surge every time you turn a corner with less than a 1/4 of a tank as so many people on the forums do. If you know how to install one perfectly, then fine go for it. I have installed all three. In Skylines and in Silvias. The Tomei/Nismo is well worth the money.

Yep they are the same.

First up it is Active not Auto. Have a quick read of this first so you know a bit about the diff: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268134-r33-gtst-active-lsd-information/ Now for the A-LSD light to be constantly on, it means it is not working. Therefore the diff is open wheeling all the time. What have you done to the car recently? Any mods? Is your HICAS light on aswell? First thing check that the resevoir in the boot has fluid in it. Second check that something hasn't snagged on the wiring for the diff pumps and unplugged them (it is directly underneath the resevoir behind the drivers side rear wheel). Go from there.

Who is installing the pump? Go the Nismo/Tomei, it's worth the extra money.