PM-R33

As in one of these in carbon? Didn't think you could get them in carbon. You can't really see it on the car though. Or do you mainly want one because it was extended so it covered the gap for the extra height of the RB30?

Lol So where abouts should we all meet on Saturday at about lunch time?

Righto heard back from Daryl, he's sending me the tracking numbers tonight. As I said they got shipped last week. They are however missing the caliper adaptors because they were on backorder with my kit, however they should arrive in the next 2-3 days so he will send those out with express post. So they might even arrive at the same time.

Or prior to doing any of that, check how much oil is in it. Also, I know you aint that stupid but I got to ask. You weren't looking at the oil light and oil pressure gauge after the car had stalled right? Because you know the light will be on and the oil pressure will be zero when the car is simply on ignition and not started.

Or just have it say RB While on this topic. How have people painted in the "RB26" to be a different colour than the rest of the timing cover? Very steady hand and a paint brush? Also mine is a R34 GTR cover which was plastic, while the R32/R33 GTR ones are metal. With the plastic one, the lettering is actually pressed outwards and is hollow, therefore when you shave it you have to use a filler to cover the hole left behind. Do the metal ones have the same thing?

Sweet as Rob, looks good. Cal can get first 4 hours night watch of the cars in the car park

God half the crap I don't even know any more. I'll go through it all and see what I want to keep and what I want to get rid of. I started going through some of it the other day (hence the N1 water pump up for sale) but I'll do it properly soon.

I think I'm going to clean out my cupboard of car parts and bring them in a box in the boot So every one bring some extra cash for some parts haha.

Yeah i'll just stop it at 15 or the closing date. I will try to organise the filter rolcation kits.

Yeah 19 row will be fine. Most Japanese oil cooler cores are a lot smaller than these things and a lot of cars run them. Addded to the list. There really is no maximum numbers for the group buy since they are all getting sent out individually, but I think I might cap it at 15 at this stage so we can get the ball rolling.

We are talking about a replacement sender for the stock gauge.

Yep relocater is just for convenience only. Lines will be 2m. Passenger side duct is probably the only place that 2m might not be enough so if you want more lines let me know and I can see if your kit can get a bit more (possibly at a small cost, maybe $10-$20). Yeah stock cooler plate also warms the oil up a bit when completely cold by using coolant. This is because coolant warms up at a quicker rate than the oil. I suppose this is one of those things every one can personally decide on if they want to get rid of it. Since I live in a hot climate for me it isn't a concern and hence I will be removing the whole thing.

WhiteR33GTS-T said on the first page that he wanted everything but the core. Perhaps chat with him and organise something with you two getting one kit and splitting it between you two. No idea about some Mocal parts being Chinese manufactured. Wouldn't suprise me though, what isn't made in China? There is a difference with a company getting something manufactured in China (like 99% of companies) and a Chinese company manufacturing parts. EDIT: Just did a quick Google search and found that in house engineering, design and manufacturing gets done at Mocal's premises at Isleworth UK. So no idea about the China reference. Perhaps only some parts are made there.

19 row or a 25 row? Yeah I think I might go one aswell. The stock position really is a pain in the ass, especially with a big Plazmaman plenum in the way.

Damn that sucks, was really looking forward to seeing your car. But yeah if you can still just come for a drink to meet up with every one would still be good. The more the merrier.

They got sent out, just awaiting a tracking number. I will email him now to see if he has every ones.

N1 oil pump part number is 15010-24U01

I got told my rebuilt head was safe for 8000rpm and it isn't really anything special. Don't see why 9000rpm would be impossible if everything was put together right. But as others have said NEO head would be the best. Hell it's better than a 26 head; VCT + Solid lifters, win win.

a) Shit tyres. b) Old tyres. c) Shit tyres that are old.

Do a decent rotor and pad upgrade with braided lines and new fluid and it should do the job. No need to spend huge money there. Do a search on DBA and RDA rotors. Brake pad opinions will vary a lot but there are plenty of good threads about them. Get a set of aftermarket coilovers in something like Bilstein, Tein, GReddy etc. MOST importantly, get a GOOD set of tyres on it as this is the basis for handling and braking performance. Also look into a camber adjustment kit, castor adjustment kit, swaybars, HICAS lock kit, diff pineapples etc. Search all the keywords I have written and spend a good solid few hours reading and researching. All the info is here. Also, if he has a lot of money to spend, why on earth did he buy a GTT for $5500? I once looked at a cheap GTT that my mate was looking at for $15,000 a couple of years ago and the car had that much rust on it we didn't even bother taking it for a test drive.

God I would love to just buy two for the rear of mine! Good luck with the sale man.

Yep me and Rob will share some place to make things a bit cheaper. Any one else booked yet? I feel like we will rock up and it will be like 4 people there Hahaha I hope all the people that said they wanted to come do rock up!

Ok regarding the relocater. They have looked into getting a Mocal relocater as part of the kit a little while ago and never heard back from Mocal. So they will suss it out again and get back to me. Might be an option for a seperate group buy later if it will be a while off. Anyway i'll update on this as I find out more. Ah yeah didn't really think about using an adaptor of some sorts. Good idea. (Not that I currently need the extra sensors, but others do). Added to the list man. Yeah I was quite happy at the 80 degrees. Exactly like you said, the ones around that 60 degre mark aren't really best suited for a street car. Also added to the list. I'll see what I can do. Perhaps if the relocater kits get done seperately, we can do like a mix and match parts list aswell or something. I'll update on this aswell.

Jesus it seems to be getting completely out of hand over there. Feel sorry for you guys

a) How can you spell suspension wrong when it is written above your post as the section title? b) What do you mean "the whole thing is shocking"? Stock GTT brakes are damn good and stock suspension for street use is hardly bad. c) Best of the best brakes? Do you mean simply a brake pad and rotor upgrade? Because best of the best brakes is implying a $10,000+ brake setup. I used to get people coming into Autobarn back in the day saying the same thing. "I want the best of the best, no matter what!". These are the types of people that know absolutely nothing about cars and have no idea about pricing. Seriously, do your own reasearch. All of your questions are answered on these forums and this is why no one has bothered to answer you. Not to mention your questions are EXTREMELY vague. See photos of rims? How about Google images, there's a start. Don't mean to come of rude, but with a topic like this, it is hard not to.