PM-R33

Nah all the GTST's have 4.11's in the rear.

Shit! lol that's what happens when I type quicker than I think Fixed haha.

You have to think about how a car works. Hopefully with this explanation you can understand: PHIL'S RPM EXPLANATION Say an engine spins at 1000rpm. This means the flywheel is spinning at 1000rpm. This is the RPM that you are seeing on your tacho. Now say you are in 4th gear with a gear ratio of 1:1. This means that the driveshaft coming out of the gearbox is spinning at 1000rpm. Say your final drive ratio in your diff is 4:1. This means that the wheels are turning at 250rpm. So as you can see, if you simply increase the engine rpm to 2000rpm and keep everything the same, the wheels would now be spinning at 500rpm. Increase the engine rpm to 4000rpm and now the wheels are spinning at 1000rpm. See how there is a constant relationship? It doesn't matter how much power the car has, the speed always remains at a constant relationship since it is simply being multiplied by gearing. The thing that power alters is how quickly - acceleration - it gets to the higher RPM. So if a 100HP car does 100km/h at 3000rpm and 130 km/h at 4000rpm. That same car with a power increase to 400HP will still do 100km/h at 3000rpm and 130 km/h at 4000rpm. This is a very rough and basic explanation but it is ment to show you the relationship of engine RPM and wheel RPM. It is a fixed relationship that always has to stay the same. So to answer your question, no. The end of a gear from 5400rpm to 6500rpm will still be giving the same constant linear increase in speed.

As Callan has said. If you are increasing RPM but not increasing speed you are getting clutch slip.

Hahaha slacker Nah still waiting on the Wilwoods. Maybe another 2 or so weeks. I'm looking forward to getting some money to put semi slicks on the car to really get the benefit of the bigger brakes.

I think a key question has been overlooked. What kind of intercooler in on there? 90% of the time overheating issues are caused by cheap intercoolers that don't allow enough airflow into the radiator. Not saying it is definetely the problem in this situation, but it is definetely something that should be asked.

That's exactly right. A good set of rotors and pads do wonders. However for the best stopping upgrade the key factor is tyres. It is the tyres that stop the car, not the brakes.

Yeah it is all just clips. Just feel around where it is being held down and pop each one out.

Around the 330mm mark seems to be a safe bet with 17" wheels. Really depends on the wheel design whether it will clear the brakes as the caliper is now being moved closer to the edge which is where certain wheels will start to "curve in" so to speak. This all comes down to brake bias. The front usually has a lot more bias since it does most of the work hence why rear brake calipers are a lot smaller. Obviously there is a lot more to this but I won't cover it here. Research how brakes actually function on the net to get a good understanding of it all. So as long as you don't upset this brake bias to much you can easily upgrade just the fronts and have the factory rears work in harmony. If you do change the brake bias this can also be ok if you know what you are doing and set it up accordingly. These brands are all the same. They are manufactured in China and can go under a lot of different names. Basically I could put 100 kits into manufacturing and call them G SPOT and bring them out. There have been a lot of positive things said about these kits and are probably the most affordable aftermarket options. I looked into these myself but at the end of the day just didn't feel all that comfortable with them. I know exactly how you feel. The GTR Brembos are great brakes. Perfect bolt on, 100% legal with no mod plates etc needed. However the money people ask for them given their age is a joke. If they were realistic money this would have been my upgrade. Sometimes you can get a bargain, but I was never lucky enough. Well basically after everything was looked into I chose to go with the Wilwood kits that I put together for our group buy. They were everything I wanted in a brake package and were a decent price. For $1850 delivered I really don't think there was anything that could match them My 2 cents.

Damn you! Way to make us wait Really looking forward to seeing how it looks man.

Yeah fair enough. I will probably book my accomodation in the coming weeks.

Never said the rotors weren't good. Talking about the calipers. Also if you are going to qoute me, how about actally taking it in context. I was talking about the specifications of the calipers. What piston area do they use? Will it shift your brake bias forward or rear? Will the master cylinder need changing to better suit the new ratio? What is the area of the brake pad used in the caliper? Is half the face of the rotor actually not going to be used because the pads are small? These are the specifications and more that I was referring to. Not just listing the size of the rotors and therefore judging a kit on that. They are the bottom of the range Wilwood calipers and are about 1/4 of the price of the billet superlite calipers that I did for the group buy. Plenty of info about them on the net and why they are cheap, please do your own research before trying to defend them just because you think you found a great deal. They are in no way better or as good as the Nissan used Brembo's on the R34 GTR/350Z/V35's. Also your V35 use a single piston sliding caliper. Just because you hear "single piston" doesn't mean it is the same as a single piston Skyline rear caliper. Completely different. At the end of the day, yes they will outperform your factory front brakes. Never said they wouldn't. However this is mainly due to the larger diameter and more importantly thicker rotor. If you know anything about braking it is all about heat transfer. The calipers are crap however, simple as that. Also yes you will need an Engineer to check over them (mod plate/ safety cert etc). The brake lines supplied will not pass Australian specifications however if you are worried about that. So you will need custom ones made up (like I did for our group buy). Not trying to put you off them at all, they are an OK buy. I just wanted to lay all the cards on the table. I spent quite a lot of time researching Wilwood brakes so know quite a bit about them hence my comment. Here is a thread on basically the same kit but for a Skyline. Pay particular attention to Roy's comment: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/312532-wilwood-brake-kit/page__hl__wilwood Cheers Phil

Just so you know the reason those are cheap is because they are the bottom of the range 4 piston Wilwood calipers. Has been covered a few times in the past and I also went into detail regarding it in the Wilwood group buy thread.

Damnit so that is pretty big. Definetely not engine bay fitment size. Let me know what you end up deciding on because i'll get the same. You have no idea how much swearing goes on in the garage every time I try and take off the braided lines on a Ryco barb fitting.

Hmm interesting. They cost quite a bit, but I suppose in the long run it wouldn't be to bad just replacing the inside filter. How big are those damn things? In the photo they make it look as big as a damn muffler!

Ummm dude RB's are all cast iron blocks.

Hence why you should take the hard line all the way out and have it venting at the rear of the car.

love it.

Hahaha I love Ash's template. Cracks me up everytime he uses it

+1 brah

Wow impressive!

From everything I have read on E90POST there is no issues with the transmission handling larger amounts of power. They are basically the same type of gearbox as what the R35 GTR uses and as we all know, the only reason they have broken in the R35 is due to AWD launches in a heavy, powerfull car. Obviously the M3 doesn't have this problem.

Who still has a white fridge? Get with the times man Certain cars look gorgeous in white. E92 M3's are DEFINETELY one of those due to the factory optioned carbon/black parts which contrast very nicely.

Righteo all got sent today, done!