PM-R33

Does any one else wish they didn't bother with the B-Spec events and just made the A-Spec events bigger or just added more events to the game? I mean, I buy the game to play it, not to have half the game played for me. While I enjoying watching the videos of the car driving, I feel that's what the "Playback" is for, not to have half the game devoted to it...

The entire universe according to certain theories However if you follow M Theory and Superstring theories the universe was here all along prior to The Big Bang....

Ah ok fair enough

What custom body work did you get done? Pics?

From when I looked into doing it, you supposibly had to make your own tool to do it. Every one I spoke to that had done it said was a pain in the ass. Hence I just ripped the head off.

Link don't work. Have to log in.

You get the braided clutch line from me on Friday?

Aftermarket ones, yes. Factory ones, no.

Not sure about Melbourne sorry, but just give Trent a call at Status (Think it is Checkered Tuning now?) and see what he says. At the end of the day, if some one told me I had to build a NA RB to make power it obviously is possible, but not cheap at all. Making power out of a NA RB is the same as making power out of any NA engine. I would try to chase power through high compression, higher displacement, high revs and high air velocity. RB30 block with a NA RB25 head. Custom high compression light weight pistons, light weight balanced rods and crank to bring compression up to something high like 12.1 and run E85 fuel only. Build the head with large duration and lift cams. Open up the valves with oversized valves. Heavily port the head and build it and the engine for high RPM depending on where the power band would be. Individual throttle bodies. Tuned length extractors. Light weight pulleys. Lightened flywheel. Shot of nitrous oxide. etc. As you can see it aint an easy or cheap job and really only doing a part of it aint going to give you much gains without doing the whole lot. The most I have seen on here from the NA section from a RB25DE is around 130-140rwkw. Which is dick all really.

Tell me about it...

Exactly. If your coilpacks are rooted, the HKS DLI won't help much. New coilpacks first, then new loom, then HKS DLI.

Here is a picture of a Neo without the big plastic Neo cover on it: As you can see the main differences are the throttle body, the timing belt cover, oil cap is recessed, plastic crank angle sensor etc.

I used to have HKS 256/264 cams but sold them becuase my tuner said they were f**ked and couldn't get the car to make power. Then went Poncams and still my tuner said they were f**ked. Then found out I had a collapsed cat! So should have just kept the HKS cams

Best looking 20" wheels i've seen on a 33 by far lol.

Sure do Long time over due in my opinion.

Not sure if this is the reason for the OP's car being yellow, but the bumper goes yellow from not running a cat. Nothing a bit of pre wax cleaner won't remove.

You won't find much info because building a proper head (especially a N/A one) is a black art. The people that know what they are doing charge huge amounts of money for their talent. No one will be willing to simply give away their secrets for free. Obviously you could get larger custom ground camshafts, open up the ports and upgrade the valve train, but really at the end of the day, it aint going to bring you much power for the amount of money it will cost you; and it will cost you a LOT. Even with a tuned length exhaust manifold and individual throttle bodies your power increases are still relatively small. You are on your P's. Have fun with the car as it is, once you get off your P's buy something else if you want power. N/A Skylines are simply not made to make power, end of story. They are far to heavy for the size N/A engines they have.

Use mineral terps or wax and grease remover. It aint easy but let it soak in a bit and just go to town on it. About 6 months ago I took all my wheels off and cleaned the shit out of them on the inside (including doing what you are trying to do), mainly used mineral terps. Goodluck.

I think maybe the OP doesn't fully understand how a true twin scroll setup works?

Well if it is a 1998 it would be a Neo correct? So it is most likely from a R34 GTT or from a C34 Stagea. Pretty sure if you find the serial number on the block and do a search for it in Nissan FAST or something it would tell you.

Honestly man, chuck them up on LS1.com.au and I reckon they will sell straight away. Good price for them and they are quite popular on most commodore models.

I just got a migrane.

The clutch lines are unknown.

You magnificent bastard! Thanks for that

UPDATE The pedals are arriving to the US some time in the next two weeks. Once they arrive they are getting sent here. So as I said, looks like it will not be until after Christmas