PM-R33

You could give it a go. The GTT lines use a 90 degree fitting and different mounts, other than that they are the same. Why's that?

Awesome, thanks for letting me know guys. It's fairly easy to do yourself, most annoying thing is bleeding it. Just once again, let me know if they fit.

Shit, that's not a bad price for the oil analysis, I would have thought it would be more. I wouldn't mind doing one with the new Dimple sump plug. Also, where can I get my hands on your engine: RB2BPETT lol

Fucking lol at the smiley face. Out of curiousity, what did the oil analysis set you back?

Hence why I didn't go some stupidly large cams. I got a power increase at every single RPM point after doing the headwork/cams. (One of my old threads is kicking around somewhere in FI where I posted my results). I swear most people have no understanding of what "Duration" actually means and just open a catalogue and go "F**k yeah, 280 degrees sounds tuff!".

Any of you guys receive your lines today?

Smart descision. The RB25 coversion into the S15 would have blown out in costs to do properly.

Yeah twin GT-RS's are quite large, good for 800 odd HP. Not much noise before 4000-5000rpm. Given that the engine hasn't been built yet, 100% make sure the comp is good.

Lol the RB25 idea didn't last long

80% power....what?

You can buy lowered springs such as King Springs that come in different heights (Lows, Super Lows etc). You will need to buy a front and rear pair and than also buy new shocks that will work with the lowered springs. While some people will tell you to run lowered springs on the factory shocks, the truth of the matter is the factory shocks are old and will blow the seals after a short time with lowered springs. Which means you will be paying twice for labour installing the new shocks if you can't do it yourself. Also don't cut your springs if some one suggests that.

Yeah I don't know why they aint going through. I just sent an email to them aswell so see i'll let you guys know if they reply with any updates

Having two vehicles (a reliable one and than a Skyline or such) is probably the best way to enjoy each. I have the Skyline as a fun car and than the motorbike and the gf's Mazda 3 to go to work, shops etc. There is nothing better than working on the car knowing you don't need to rush to put it back together for work the next day. I used to only have the Skyline and it was a pain in the ass trying to modify it and use it every single day. If you can afford it, definetely go for it. You will love the car so much more and enjoy the practicallity of a daily. Once i'm settled in my new Engineering job next year, i'm definetely buying another car to add to the list; most likely a Euro.

The only reason to "upgrade" the factory FPR is really in three instances: 1. When your injectors are starting to max out, but you don't want to upgrade them, so you bump up the rail pressure with the aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator to push them a little but furthur. Obviously this isn't ideal and most people don't recommend it. Just buy the correct injectors to start with. 2. When you are running huge amounts of boost and the factory fuel pressure regulator can not keep up the 1:1 fuel pressure ratio. Therefore you will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that can handle this high amount of boost pressure and keep up the 1:1 ratio. 3. The factory fuel pressure regulator has failed so you may choose to buy an aftermarket one however still run it at factory fuel pressure. So as you can see, not many people fall into the second category because a lot of people don't run 2+bar of boost through their car. A few do fall into the first category because they may be on a budget and don't want to upgrade the stock injectors so they choose to bump the rail pressure up instead and obviously a few will fall into the third category. However there is a fourth category that you will find 90% of people with aftermarket fuel pressure regulators fall into: 4. They have no idea what an adjustable fuel pressure regulator does, but they got told to buy one by a mate or read about one somewhere. For your situation assuming that you are not running E85, your 700cc injectors should be fine for between 400-500HP therefore you do not need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.

I didn't really notice any difference.

You didn't happen to buy that car in Townsville North QLD from a guy called Scott about 6 years ago did you? I swear that is his old car lol. Same interior, same wheels.

Exactly. I picked up next to no gains in peak horsepower because my turbo is all ready at it's limit. However that is not what larger cams do. The fact I gained so much power at so low RPM means the car comes onto boost faster and harder, revs out quicker and is faster overall on the street. It would be like me engaging my nitrous at 2000rpm and turning it off at 4500rpm. On a dyno printout my peak horsepower would be bugger all bigger. Does that mean the nitrous did nothing? Hardly.

It aint about peak horsepower though. It is about gaining more power in the midrange which is extremely hard to do on a setup allready pushed to its limit.

What car is this 600rwkw going to go into and what are you going to be using it for?

Oh right. I read it as "Jay Z gets Beyone a Veyron for his bday."

Mine is kind of hard to judge because I did the headwork at the same time. But my biggest gains were from around 2000rpm to 5000rpm at around an average of 20-30rwkw.

Sold

So Jay Z got the Veyron? Your thread title says the opposite.

Fair enough. It just bounced back so I just assumed your inbox was full. How did the prototype go?

He hasn't really stated what mods he has, has he?