PM-R33

If you seperate I would be interested in the cam gear cover.

So far the best inspiration with the LED's that I have had is from the Ferrari 458 Italia. Maybe something similar and simple is all we need. Say around 4 rows of LED's going around the curve of the edge of the headlight: oooooo oooo oooo oooooo

I agree, I definetely don't want these headlights standing out. I want them to be highly detailed when looked at up close, but from a distance not to look at out of place and to just look factory with an agressive dark look to them. The carbon fibre backing will give that dark aggressive look so I don't want the LED's to stand out from that when turned off at all. I don't think we should touch the glass lens at all since that would make it easier to damage something and might bump up costs if more care is needed.

Hanaldo, here it is in a nutshell. Iridiums and platinums have the benefit over coppers that the centre electrode lasts longer and therefore the plugs have a longer life. This you have understood correctly. This is why nearly all cars from factory come with iridiums/platinums and why most people in a standard car run iridiums/platinums. In a modified car pushing a lot of boost and horsepower the centre electrode and ground electrode fouls up quicker than they do in a stanadard car. Dependent on the tune they can foul up a hell of a lot quicker. Since they foul up they will start to missfire. This has nothing to do with what the electrode is made out of, it will happen regardless. Since plugs foul up quicker in a highly modified car, there is not much point using an expensive iridium/platinum spark plug. Hence people use the cheaper alternative, a copper. Now the added benefit of a copper plug is they can be gapped down when high boost levels are used. You are not ment to gap down an iridum/platinum plug because the electrode can get damaged very easily and render the plug useless. So yes your tuner is right, however I don't think you will need to go below a 0.8 gap. I have run 20psi and nitrous through mine on a 0.8 copper plug through Splitfire coilpacks and not had a missfire if the plugs were in good condition. As for the resistor plug, yes he is correct, you are ment to use a resistor spark plug on a RB ignition system. Personally I don't know what the effects are of not running one on an RB are as I have never done so. So to conclude you want the following spark plug in an RB engine: BCPR6E Obviously the heat change is dependent on mods. I use 7's because I need to for the nitrous and high boost level. Other plugs will fit such as: BPR6E BPR6ES BKR6E etc. The main differences here are the S on the end stands for "Standard", which means the spark plug doesn't have a V groove on the centre electrode which is ment to give a better burn. So if you can, get one without the S on the end. And the main difference between the BKR and the BCPR is that the BCPR is slightly longer on the end of the spark plug going into the coil pack than the BKR. Inside the coilpack there is a little spring that makes the connection between the coilpack and the spark plug. The BCPR compresses this spring more and gives a better contact (once again helps against missfires.) *I used to sell NGK plugs for years at Autobarn and had many talks with the NGK rep. On a weekly basis I would get guys in imports coming in complaining about missfires due to them running wrong plugs*

+1 what the hell are they using I'd go back there and demand to see what type of products they are using.

Yeah definetely, we just need to design something

I seriously hope you are a 13 year old kid on school holidays and are just f**king with us because if you are actually being serious and you believe the dribble you just wrote you need help. Start reading: http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm Also english grammer doesn't require you to end every single sentence with three or two full stops. PS: Beer Baron was taking the piss out of you just FIY

Yeah mainly what to actually do about the layout of the LED's. In what shape, what kind of LED's, how many etc. I keep looking at other car manufacturers LED layouts (mainly tail lights since not many do a front LED setup). I think the key thing is something simple that doesn't draw away attention from the focal point of the headlight which would be the low beam projector. In a way I think the best thing is to have them looking very inconspicous when they are turned off (barely being able to see them) but when they light up to have a nice pattern/shape. I dunno, just having a hard time thinking of what to do...

Awesome, that means the QLD boys got theirs today, the lower states probably tomorrow and WA probably on Monday. Yeah they wrap the whole way around on the outside of the oil filter. For the next group buy i'll go into a bit of detail on the Black Holes.

Nothing at the moment, still awaiting the next update from SPINTO. Currently the main thing we are trying to focus on is what to do design wise with the LED side parkers/indicators. I have been trying to do some photoshops but nothing has really hit the nail on the head yet. If some of you guys had some input on design for this, that would be great!

Lol I figured that was a given and didn't need to include the step of removing the seat I had a good think about this aswell but the way I figured it was like this: In a lot of new cars you can remove the back seats by pressing a few buttons and pulling them out. This is completely legal. You don't have to take the seat belts out. So in my situation I thought leaving the seat belts in would make it better if a police officer questioned it as in essence, it is doing the same thing. Cheers Julz

Hahahahaha yeah I played around with mine for a bit aswell Seriously, the Black Hole magnets are so much stronger!

Better boost control. Make the wastegate do most of the work and the boost controller to simply "neaten" it up.

As far as the rest of the interior goes, the next thing to get put in will be the aluminium R34 GTR V Spec II pedals from the group buy. The other things still to do are: -The roof lining and sun visors done in black and maybe remove the centre interior light and just keep the two front interior lights. -A factory airbag steering wheel from another Nissan (I want to keep the airbag instead of going to something without one). -The rear and front door cards in black (at the moment only the front are done in a carbon look vinyl that I want to get rid of). I will do progress posts/photos as I go along

I have had my car for about 5 years now from stock standard and one area I never really did much on was the interior. It was an area of the car I could never really decide on what I wanted and I never had the money to do a full retrim or something similar. I didn't want something to out there but at the same time wanted to retain some comfort/luxury but still with a bit of a track/sports feel. I looked towards what a lot of Euro sports cars were doing and wanted to style it on something along those lines. My interior has pretty much remained the same since the HPI photo shoot and consisted of some white Blitz gauges in a Greddy pillar to go along with the white faced 300km/h speedo, a Greddy Profec boost controller and turbo timer in a custom enclosure of where the ash tray went and a Nismo leather gear knob with a custom leather gear boot. As you can see I wanted to keep it as neat looking while looking semi factory. I didn't really want gauges all over the dash with wires running everywhere and a stripped interior like some cars have. While I don't mind the look of it, for a street driven car it would annoy me. So about a month ago after my girlfriend mentioned I spend so much money on parts of the car I can't see when I'm sitting inside of it, I decide the grandpa-spec interior was due for a change. The first obvious thing that needed to be done was the seats. I have thought about this so many times and finally bit the bullet on my choice. I loved the look and feal of R34 GTR seats but they had to be black. Knowing what black ones go for there was no way in hell I was paying that much for second hand seats. So I ended up getting some new East Bear Sigma R34 GTR seats for a good price with bolt in rails and put them in. They looked fantastic and hugged really well (also saved around 6-7kg over the stock seats) however the factory back seat pissed me off a lot. It just looked to strange with the contrasting of colours and I needed to do something about it. The problem was I hardly ever have back seat passengers and the car isn't a daily any more so to spend a few hundred dollars on a retrim just seemed like a waste. My only cheap option was to get a custom made black seat cover but it was still going to cost $150+ and I have never been a big fan of seat covers. I decided that I was going to simply remove the back seat and try and put something in its place. It also would act as a bit of sound deadening compared to having nothing there. REAR SEAT DELETE DIY I ended up buying some thick black carpet from a store we used to get stock through while working at Autobarn and it was fairly cheap (even got a trade discount so ended up costing next to nothing!). I got a lot more than I needed - around 2x2m and retail it would have only been about $60. I test fitted it into the car and found out I obviously had a lot more than I needed. I cut it down to 160cm wide and 130cm long. While this is still more than what is needed, I cut it longer due to the way I was going to install it to make it neat. You don't have to cut it that straight as you won't see any of the cuts - as I will show soon. I decided to use a strip of velcro along the full length of the parcel shelf to attach the carpet to. I have a custom MDF black carpeted parcel shelf so I simply used some small nails to hold the velcro in place. For the top of the material I folded it over about 3cm to get a very nice edge and so you couldn't notice where it joined onto the parcel shelf (hence not needing to cut it perfectly straight). I did the same thing of folding the material down the bottom however here I didn't attach any velcro as it held in place perfectly. For the edges I tucked everything in behind the plastic interior trimming. This is why I left the material so much bigger as the extra size ment I could really pack it underneath to stretch out the material and get it nice and flat without any crinkles in it (I swear I have a mild form of OCD because little shit like that really pisses me off). I left the seat belts in the car (obviously you could remove them) so for the actual belts I cut a slit along the edge to allow the seat belt to be in its normal position and when everything is tucked in you can't even see the slit. Now as far as legalities go, in QLD you don't need to register it as a 2 seater since you havn't done anything permanent to the car which would stop you from putting the seats in easily. (I'm not sure what the other states are like). Never the less, I simply printed this out: http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/a1143ca0...torvehicles.pdf And keep in under the rear seat delete material just in case I had a police officer question it. So there you go, a very simple/cheap rear seat delete option that looks great and can easily be taken out if you need to put the back seats back in. If you really had an emergency and needed to take some one, you could still have some one sitting in the back, it just wouldn't obviously be that comfortable for them

Yeah I was trying to work out what he meant aswell. Maybe he is reffering to Gain?

Get him to test drive the M Sport 7 speed DCT 335i coupe and see what he thinks. My old man was in a similar situation after selling the Monaro and had a good look at what was around for around the 100k mark. Fell in love with the handling/comfort and speed of the 335i (and this was coming from a nearly 400rwkw Monaro!) and ended up getting an 09 M Sport. Now the modding begins

Here we go.... I wasn't "giving shit". My comment to you was based on the fact that you "claim" to have fitted larger turbos and a larger fuel system onto your vehicle. First of all I know straight away that you personally didn't fit them yourself but would have had to pay some one to do so. My reasoning for this claim is due to the fact if you had the ability to do such a large job as fit aftermarket turbochargers onto a RB26 engine you wouldn't be stupid enough to think it may be safe to drive a vehicle hard on a stock ECU with larger injectors and turbos designed for x amount of airflow and y amount of fuel. Also you have chosen to get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator fitted. Clearly if you had picked the right sized injectors in the first place you wouldn't need to be trying to bump up the rail pressure to squeeze more power out of the smaller injectors. Once again strengthening my claim and opinion on you. This summed up my comment of you not deserving a nice car such as an R34 GTR, perhaps something along the lines of a Daewoo Lanos would be more up your ally. Please reply back to me with some thing unintelligent like "f**k you" or something similar to once again strenghthen my claim and to get this thread locked. Ask a stupid question; get treated line an idiot.

What the f**k is with all these knobs using the word "Hater"?! I see it from every new member. "Stop being a hater" "Your just a hater" Dead set, you aint gangsta because you say the word hater, you just sound like a 16 year old pimple faced white kid.

N1GTR, your Dimple plug should be arriving today going off of the tracking number online

Give me your R34 GTR, you don't deserve it.

Every states law is different on it. But as a general rule, any sort of wheel spacer (unless factory fitted) is deemed not legal (some exceptions do apply).

Any way, less chat, more figures and specs

Ohh I didn't mean it to sound like it was a huge amount or something, I know you can get a lot more It's a street car and the porting was only done since the head was off to get the valve springs put in. Figured while it was off to give it a bit of a port.

Yeah we got very good results out of it Normally he ports them out to around 250cfm but my head was with him for a long time so he spent a bit more time on it and went a bit beyond to what he normally goes for the price I was charged.