RANDY

That's a great price on the cooler. I'm half-tempted to make an offer! I've got one on order from Japan for a few dollars less, and it's going to take 2 months to get here by sea. =-[ I *think* it's too late to cancel it anyway (already paid and told them i'd wait). =-/

Price on the R33 GTST wheels? Are you in Sydney? If so, where?

If you want to know what model CD's you have in your pack, in one of the menu's you can click on "models on CD" (I think there is a CD icon next to the accident recommendation button). It should show all the models. I've kept my FAST pretty up to date, and it does all skylines, some silvia's, left hand-drive models.... lots of other nissans too. This is across: a1 a2 a3 b1 b2 el1 el2 er gl gr I think there is a thread that has been running for years somewhere on SAU with a whole bunch of people who were willing to look things up for others using FAST. You might want to post your offering in there too? =-]

How much for both washer bottle motors posted to 2087?

Ah roger that. I got a NS a little while ago. Better upgrade it eh!?

haha! Sorry mate! I didn't realise your answer was in response to my question. =-] Cheers!

I also have one for sale (or possibly hire if you have a ratchet for the front seat bolts) that I will bring on the day.

Right. I've resent it today. I could be mistaken, but I think I heard a voice on the other end (very noisy printer room) yesterday and today when I resent it. Still.. fax transmission log says two pages went through OK. So... L2NS is acceptable? Anyone?

I have (possibly) faxed my form through. Sorry to whoever is on the receiving end... the work fax decided to eat the page, forcing me to abort and play tug of war instead. I then resent it and it decided that my daily maximum page quota should be the grand total of "one", and it just sent the page without feeding the second one through. I had to fax the second page seperately... so... enjoy? =-] Also... it's unclear to me from the above posts... is an L2NS CAMS licence sufficient for this event?

So this is not a mechanical Nismo/Kaaz 1.5 or 2 way diff? =-[

Pretty keen on the rubber pending price. I was in the process of painting and restoring a spare cowl for just this purpose, but so far have been unable to find a replacement rubber strip.

If the rubbers are good on the swaybars, and you can do $300 posted to Forestville NSW, i'll take them!

Add me please! I've done the DD, should clear in a day or so. Paperwork being faxed next week. Thanks! Name: Steve Rand

If you want to ship them to Forestville 2087 using e-go.com.au for $80 posted, i'll have them. (e-go estimates $42 for shipping, they just need to be wrapped up a bit) This is assuming they're not bent or have chips out of them or anything major like that.

Thankyou, I was going to ask! Google also has no idea where "Nirimba Airfield" is.

Please PM me if the wing sale falls though. Thanks!

Still for sale!

I had this aftermarket GTR-replica wing professionally repainted from white to black. The paint is great with the exception of a chip next to the brake-LED (while I was removing the broken LED)(pic 2 and 3, tiny chip on the right of the LED hole) and where the "professionals" masked a bit too much next to the carbon fibre lip on the wing blade. (pic 5) I think they left the carbon lip on when they were repainting, because it was going to be difficult to remove. The clear on the lip is already cracked, so we left it untouched. (pic 4 and 5) The Nismo carbon end-caps look to be a stick-on resin/clear plastic with a carbon print. (when viewed up close) (pic 7) I scraped off the old body-mounting tape and glue, which reveals the bondo-like base. Overall it's pretty smooth and should work well with some rubber backing or body tape.(pic 8) The mounting holes... there are four, and they line up with the four found on a GTST boot. I imagine you would need bolts or threaded rod. The holes are very rusty, and I couldn't find which size thread it would need. It was a little too tight for 6mm, and 1/4" didn't feel right. I didn't force anything but I think 6mm would be the go. (pic 8, 9, 10 and 11) Oh, I bought a brand new LED light for it too, before I gave up on the whole thing. I'll throw that in too. I'd suggest inspecting before buying, and i've tried to be as clear as possible. Please ask me questions if you need to know more. Pickup would be preferred. Forestville NSW. But I could probably meet anywhere on the North Shore. Shipping is likely to damage something, so i'll pass on that for now. Price: $300 or best offer.

As per SMS conversation, I will take the thermo fan pending delivery costs to Forestville NSW. -Steve

High res images will be in my gallery soon for anyone who wants them: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/gallery/album/3573/4039-2010-12-12-sau-dinner-with-jim-richards/

Prices please? (rules) Also, which Link ECU? (i.e version) Lastly, where are you located? Ta

$300 R33 S2 GTST front calipers (including whatever pads are in them) Sold for $150. $200 R33 S2 GTST front discs (appear to be plenty of wear left) Sold for $25 $100 R33 S2 GTST castor rods/tension rods (rubbers look perfect!) Sold for $25 $50 R33 S2 GTST front swaybar - currently on eBay for $20 $50 R33 S2 GTST steering rack (one bent tie-rod, but rack came out of my car and was perfect before the tie-rod got hit) $50 R33 S2 GTST Passenger seatbelt (pre-tensioner and seat buckle included) $50 R33 S2 GTST Passenger side front quarter-panel in white, with indicator. $50 R33 S2 GTST Braided oil and water lines for standard fittings. New and unused. Sold for $60 $25 R33 S2 GTST Radiator (auto). Reasonable condition, no leaks. (with cap) $25 R33 S2 GTST Standard condenser. Reasonable condition, no leaks. $5ea R33 S2 GTST random interior trim pieces... both kick-panels, some windscreen vents etc. Binned some, kept others for myself. Any offer considered!

Pics pls?

Probably easiest to post your VIN so someone can look it up in Nissan FAST. Failing that, find a car that has the RB30E (VL, right?) engine, and use this: http://nissan4u.com/

The shock sensor might do it. The short alarm is supposed to be a "warning". Mine went off once or twice when some little 4cyl with a huge exhaust pulled up next to my car parked on the road. If this is why yours is going off, it's due to the shock/impact sensor. The impact sensor should be cabletied to the steering column. You *should* be able to see/access it by crawling on the drivers footwell floor on your back. There is two adjusters from memory... I can't remember why there are two, but i'm sure it's a fine-tuning thing. Unless you can consult a pro, i'd just lock/arm your car then kick your front tyre really hard until it goes off.... Wind one of the adjusters up a little, then retest and see if it's more or less sensitive. Go the other way if it's too sensitive. Failing that, get an alarm installer to readjust it for you. =-]