RANDY

Still for sale.. Probably go on eBay next week!

After my panel got damaged I bought a set of Nismo side indicators to replace the standard winker in the replacement panel. I have both of these lying around as spares, but I don't see this kind of thing happening again anytime soon, so they're up for sale! $20 for just one Nismo indicator is about a FIFTH of the price of a pair! (*you* do the math, go on!) Regardless, i'll take $20 for the lot or else i'll continue holding them as spares. I put the Nismo item on the drivers side, so the standard blinker in the picture should be the drivers side, and the Nismo item should be the passenger side, and is brand new and unused. There is also one amber/orange bulb. Express posted for $8.40 or pickup from Forestville NSW. Please reply here, (to get your place in line) and then PM me so that I get an email notification. Cheers! -Steve

As discussed in PM, I will take these. =-]

I replaced mine with a used item many years ago, and now i'm looking for a replacement for a GTR wing i'm going to whack on. I just happened to find this post, and then this ad on Gumtree: Brand new, direct replacement (aftermarket) for $50 plus post. Can't be much more than whatever else you find. http://perth.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicle...QAdIdZ225233664

I replied in your other thread too, but to further this comment... The timer will only keep the car running when the ignition is turned off if you have had the ignition on for 2 minutes or more. So... driving for more than 2 minutes, or if you just go to "ignition" and not start the car, leave it for over 2 minutes, then turn the key to "off", it SHOULD keep all the ignition lights on the dash until you force it off, or the system reaches the pre-defined countdown to automatically shut it off. If the system has the function (which I know it does) the installer should have hooked it up. I'd do the test, and if it's not working, insist that they finish the job. Why would you pay them for a system with a built-in feature if they're not going to set it up? =-] (see my other reply in your other post too)

I had the same system hooked up a few years ago, and from what I remember, the TT function is programmable at the time of installation for 30, 60 or 90 seconds. I have mine on 90 seconds, and you can force it off when you've turned the car off but it's still running by double-pressing "2". I usually do this, and it's no effort. You can force the shutdown whenever you like.. doors open, doors locked, immobilised etc, as long as the ignition is off and it's running from the alarm system. The whole thing was Insurance approved, and I received a certificate for insurance purposes too. I wouldn't think that there is an issue with a timer built into an alarm/immobiliser, as it can't be overridden like the piggy-back types. While we're on the topic of this system, (which I rate VERY highly)... I had "unlock" once programmed to unlock both doors, and a second press to pop the boot via a solanoid installed next to the boot release latch (in the boot). This is SO DAMN HANDY. I swear the only key barrel i've used in the last 5 years is the ignition. Double-pressing "1" will turn all your indicators on. Handy for walking to the car in the dark, or finding it in a parking-lot. 1 and lock will silent-lock 2 and unlock will silent-unlock

Sounds a lot like my theory! =-p

Nice one. =-]

I thought the purpose of that flap/vent (which is in every car i've ever seen) is so that air can escape when you close your boot... so the boot doesn't just bounce off the air trying to escape.

If it's anything like the R33's, there is an actuator that moves a flap between recirc and fresh... these often die or go noisy and there is a thread on how to get to and replace the actuator. I changed mine because it was clicking on a broken tooth inside the actuator, and it's been perfect since. I would assume that there is a seperate actuator for foot/face/demist, but i'm not sure in a Stag. I wouldn't think the climate control unit is broken, unless it's not lighting up the position the air should be blowing in?

To further my last post.. I have splitfire coilpacks and NGK iridium (heatrange 6, 1.1mm gap, never falters under any rpm) I do like the idea of the sticking pin in the injectors as a theory, and I was going to suggest this to the topic starter.... I will be getting mine overhauled in the next month or two.

Did you take out the instrument cluster while doing the stereo? It does sound like the sender is working, but the wire that lights up the fuel light is all integrated into a harness off the back of the cluster. If somehow you've managed to feed power to it, that would explain why it's on.

hmmmm..... it sounds like the globe is telling the car that the headlights/taillights are on. (as you say with the dash-dimming) Perhaps check that the LED globes have the same contacts... because the tail lights are all high/low (unless compliancing fiddled with the wires), each globe socket should have TWO metal contacts, and the globes will have two seperate contacts also. I would think, if your LED's have ONE contact, it would be bridging the two contacts in the socket... .so when the brakes are on (brightly), it is feeding power to the LOW contact, so the electrical system thinks your normal lights are on, therefore dimming your display. I would think that your parkers would come on at the same time, and your instrument cluster? In any case, check the contacts of the LED's and sockets. =-] Let us know!

While we're mentioning spoilers and foglights... series 1 has a clear "skyline" garnish, s2 are colour-coded. (not sure about s1.5 though) s2 has different seat trim.... and no coin-slot on the dashboard.

Probably a loose wire... pretty unlikely both bulbs blew at the same time. I have a guide to changing the globes, if it comes to that. =-]

I get the same thing on very cold mornings... It'll come alive immediately if I give it a tiny bit of pedal. Bit annoying sometimes... I can leave it for 20 seconds, and it will turn over on its own about once a second and eventually burst alive.

Also make sure you're running the right wattage globes? R33 are 55w, but i've seen 100w globes available... which would get very hot, and potentially blow more quickly.

I don't think there is any calibration as such? The sensor senses how far open it is and feeds the signal to the ECU as far as I know. Adjusting your cable is another story. Take out the slack, and you could use a consult cable and software to confirm WOT. (with the car ignition on, but not running)

Yer, the ECU will control the solanoid so that it allows the wastegate to open at 5psi up to 4500rpm, and then 7psi over that. The grounding mod mentioned way earlier basically tricks the solanoid into bleeding more air off all the time, so 7psi can be achieved <4500rpm

$300 R33 S2 GTST front calipers (including whatever pads are in them) Sold for $150. $200 R33 S2 GTST front discs (appear to be plenty of wear left) $100 R33 S2 GTST castor rods/tension rods (rubbers look perfect!) $50 R33 S2 GTST front swaybar $50 R33 S2 GTST steering rack (one bent tie-rod, but rack came out of my car and was perfect before the tie-rod got hit) $50 R33 S2 GTST Passenger seatbelt (pre-tensioner and seat buckle included) $50 R33 S2 GTST Passenger side front quarter-panel in white, with indicator. $50 R33 S2 GTST Braided oil and water lines for standard fittings. New and unused. $25 R33 S2 GTST Radiator (auto). Reasonable condition, no leaks. (with cap) $25 R33 S2 GTST Standard condenser. Reasonable condition, no leaks. $5ea R33 S2 GTST random interior trim pieces... both kick-panels, some windscreen vents etc.

Agreed to coilpacks as a suspect. Mine did very much the same thing, but since I put splitfires in it's been perfect. 1.1mm gapping on iridiums for the last 3 years and it doesn't miss a beat. Possibly even the knockoff red and yellow "jacket" coilpacks would be fine too?

Oh jesus! that's really not a good way of resolving the problem unless someone tooled around with the CAS in the first place. Your timing belt may have skipped and stripped teeth... which is a timebomb waiting to bend some valves. I'd hook up a laptop and consult software to check the base timing for a start.

Saw a black one on ebay for $189, postage not included. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...=item335dcc76da That's a steal, if you ask me. Reo for $5, with huge postage http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-...=item3cadf5b37d I may have a freshly and professionally repainted black one FS in a month or so. I'd be after more than those on ebay though. ;o)

I have a used radiator for sale. It's from an auto, so it has the trans cooler inlet and outlet, but otherwise they're identical. Comes with radiator cap. It's a bit dirty, and has a few bent fins, but it doesn't appear to have any cracks or dents. Could post Tuesday (public holiday on Monday), for $50 plus post. PM if interested.

I was in a similar situation recently. Wreckers such as JustJap had them for $250 usually in stock (mine was M) I ended up getting one from Tyres And More in Brookvale NSW for $120 brand new. It apparently was an aftermarket item, but new. It works, and my airbag light works properly now. (This was all for a GTST, but I was told an R33 Series 2 was the rarest of the lot to get parts for) -Steve