RANDY

lolers! I hope you're not trying to hijack my thread! I need to know the answers to my questions before tuesday, as i'll be taking my dash apart to put these airbags in. =-[

Ta. I'm worried that some sensor somewhere might trigger the new ones to go off when I plug them in.

As above, mine works perfectly but gives the noise on startup only. I just pulled a unit out of a half-cut (my car is in bad shape atm) and it looked almost impossible without the dash off (which I have to do anyway to change my airbags) I'm going to try giving it power externally to see if it's any good, otherwise i'll try the above mentioned trick! =-]

Hi guys. My car was involved in an accident recently, which fired off the airbags. I have replacements that I have pulled out of a half-cut, but I have a few questions: 1) Are they safe to handle when disconnected? (i.e: is there ANY chance of them going off?) 2) Are they likely to go off when I put them into my car (which is still being repaired) 3) Do I have to do any fancy ECU trickery afterwards? 4) Do I need to replace any sensors or anything other than the airbags themselves? Thanks in advance, i'm really keen to get my car back on the road! -Steve

Thanks guys, I bought it because it was relatively cheap, and had the carbon bits and end-caps. I'm having it repainted black to suit my car and i'll keep those offers in mind. The Nismo bits are indeed some kind of plastic that is stuck to standard-looking end-caps, and my painter will stick them back on after it's all painted. If i'm strapped for cash, I might pull them off to sell (since there's so much interest in them) What are they worth though? -Steve

Oh right!? The Nismo is on the sides where the GTR logo usually is, and the carbon "lip" for the lack of a better word is on the edge of the blade. Pics soon!

Hey all! I have an R33 GTR wing, which appears to be genuine, and has Nismo carbon side inserts, and a carbon fibre lip on the end of the wing. Is this a Nismo item? Or some Nismo bits stuck onto a Nissan wing, or possibly an aftermarket lip and Nismo covers?j If it's not clear, i'll try to get a picture of it. Thanks in advance! -Steve

I had a thought along these lines a few days ago actually. I wanted to do this for some time, but I don't want to modify the crossover pipe with a fitting... which is probably the best place to monitor the temps from. What I *might* try, is to stick the thermocouple probe into the short bit of rubber pipe I have where a boost line was removed when I installed a manual boost controller. Hopefully i'll be able to clamp the hose onto the thermocouple rod without any leaks, and the probe is long enough to have the tip in the airstream. I'll keep you posted actually... Thursday or Friday i'll have a go at it. (after I replace my dead tacho) =-] -Steve

This is the path i've been looking into going down. I've priced it all up, and i'm about to order one. Pity there isn't some common fault that is easy to fix with some solder. Thanks for the info! -Steve

My searches are not going too well. Mine decided to flip past 9K after some spirited driving last week. It came back alive, then died.. then fluttered all over the place. Since then, I was able to get it working perfectly by pressing on the top-right section of the cluster while driving.. until I hit a bump and it went haywire again. So on the weekend I pulled it out and did pretty much what is described here. I filed the plug (all contacts) so that they were shiny, then got contact cleaner and went over all the tracks in the sockets on the back. Initially I had it loose and started the car, fiddled with the wires and couldn't make it play up. After the cleaning, I put it back in (not screwed in) and turned the car on and off about 5 times. I revved it past 5K (the point at which it used to fall down to 9+) and it was fine. Put it back in, put the dash all back together, tested in the driveway while pushing all over the cluster and banging the dash... it was fine. Went for a drive, and it failed. =-/ I'm at a loss, and I can't find any guide on how to replace the tacho with another from a used cluster, but I assume it's possible? Help on the topic would be appreciated!

Oops. Deleted offer.

Factory boost guage is rated in mmHg (as it's printed on the dash) That's millimeters of Mercury, I believe? Anyway, it's not Pounds per Square Inch which we generally use in Australia. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pressure...rter-d_569.html I bought one of these about... 3 years ago? I bought a cheap boost guage and tapped off the same line that the factory guage uses... ran that pipe into the cabin through the firewall and then started setting the boost. Once I found 10psi exactly, I disconnected the pipe and boost guage and put it in the shed. This controller has been flawless ever since. I haven't once touched it since I set it! So on the dash... 10psi is about 500mm Hg... which is +5 (x100) on the dash. Occasionally I look at the boost when i'm going uphill, and it sits on +5 and never spikes. Best controller you can buy for $30+shipping. (It was $22 delivered when I bought it!)

Heads up to all: I haven't had any response from Trent via PM or SMS for over a week now. I'm not sure what happened, but I haven't received the cooler either. =-[

No longer required. =-D

Like many R33 owners with this problem, my issue was the coilpacks. I replaced mine with other used (but good) packs that lasted for about 6 months then started doing the same thing. I bought Splitfires ($550 or less if you look hard enough) and it's been 100% for the last year and a half. Either way, i'd replace them just for the superior spark splitfires put out. I'd only stuff around with tape and glue if you *really* can't afford new coilpacks.

Pics of cat-back please? I've heard that these should fit a GTST? Also, do you have the wing in good condition? PM please? Cheers!

As the topic says, i'm after a Fujitsubo stainless catback system for my R33 GTST. A friend of mine bought one from someone here for $350 not long ago, and i'm willing to pay the same money. I really want the muffler type (one mid, one rear), and completely unmodified. (quiet) Please reply with any offers you have! (i'd pay double for titanium, but I doubt anyone has one) Cheers! -Steve

What is wrong with the turbo? Has it been opened? Please PM with details?

I'd take the heat-shields for $60 delivered to Sydney. Please PM if you accept my offer. Cheers!

Is the Greddy intercooler a "spec" LS? I'd like to make an offer for it (pending some pics please?) Please PM! =-] Cheers!

lolers! nice work digging up a really, really old thread! ;o) I assume this must be sold by now, so here is the same thing on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nismo-MFD-LCD-Dash-...id=p3286.c0.m14 $760 with 6 days to go. These are bloody expensive!

brand of exhaust please? PM? ta!

Are the seats series 1 or 2? Please PM me. =-]