RANDY

OK ta!

Actually cancel that. Sourced elsewhere. =-]

How good is the drivers seat? Mine's got a nasty big gash on the side because I keep wanting to get back in every time I get out. =-/

If sale falls through and this direct-fits an R33 GTST, please PM me and i'll take it. (will require postage to Sydney) Cheers!

Oh.. that raises another question for me... I thought I read some posts about GTR exhaust hangers being in a slightly different position to GTST hangers... I think I need to find out definitely. =-] I'd be willing to make an offer if all is well. Thanks!

Daxter.. I know this might be a bit late, but mine was pretty stubborn too. It's possible that yours may have been removed previously perhaps? You *could* try heating up the existing sealant with a hairdryer from *inside* the boot. i.e: Heat up the rear panel, around the threads, then push with something solid on two threads (to disperse the pressure a bit.. you don't want to break anything, eh?). I'd probably suggest getting the whole area behind the taillight very warm to the touch, and if that still fails, heat it up really quite hot. The gooey sealant *should* become really soft and pliable with heat. ;o)

Indeed! While you've triggered my email notification, i'll take the time to say: My LED's are still working just fine, and haven't blown. zing! =-D

Do 4 door exhausts fit 2 door cars? And is this *definitely* pickup only?

Price?

I have stock 34 rims on my '33... I could probably slide a piece of paper inbetween the inside of the wheel and the caliper... but certainly they are *barely* not touching. =-]

Might be a couple of days.. my car is with my mechanic for a radiator overhaul atm. Mine would make that noise if it was anywhere less than pretty much FULL. In the meantime... drivers side, below where the oil filter is, there are two rubber pipes, that go into two metal pipes, which then hit the steering rack. Those are the rubber pipes i'm talking about. The smaller one is the high pressure, I think? (would make sense) I changed both regardless.... cause they were both quite oily and dirty. Other than that, i'd also change and replace the hose-clamp for the pipe that leads directly down from the bottom of the reservoir if it looks dirty at all.

Told you so ;o) Mine has been fine for 2 years now... I had the problem whenever I leaked enough fluid to bring the reservouir down from full. Then grinding. I don't think i've even topped mine up in over a year! (mechanic would have checked though)

Interesting... my USB still works just fine with any thumb-drive I use. I had another look at the Pioneer manual... it says it can use any "Mass Storage Class" equipment... USB HDD's show up as a MSD (Device) instead. It rather looks like you just cannot use a regular USB HDD due to the circuitry of the device. Realising that, I went and bought a 60Gb Ipod Photo... Which is in the "Classic" family. (4th Generation, version 1.2.1) The iPod was doing the exact same thing! "N/A USB"... so I called Pioneer and got a semi-helpful bloke. He confirmed that the iPod photo *is* a "Classic", and should work. I then asked him whether newer versions of the classic firmware would work, because 1.0.2 is very old, and the iPod came with 1.2.1. He was quite confident that the iPod *had* to be that exact firmware version to work, no newer, no older. For the life of me, I can't find the older firmware for this iPod to try and restore it back... I thought I had it, and found an old version of iTunes that supported the SHIFT-click restore mode, but it didn't want to know about the firmware I found. So i'm back to using my 8Gb USB key, and seeing as how 32Gb and 64Gb keys are fairly cheap now... i'm wondering why I even bother! I'm going to sell the iPod and buy a bigger USB key. Eventually, i'll get rid of this P.O.S Pioneer HU and go back to Kenwood or something that controls the power antenna properly. (it still bugs me.. every day)

The GUI can do all those steps... I'm creating a 32Gb or less partition so that the GUI gives me the FAT32 option. (not bupcus) Are you saying that the problem is that all these head units don't support a drive that isn't used in its entirety? Are you also suggesting that the problem is because the headunit ignores the FAT and gets confused by old data that has been quick-formatted? I will certainly do a full format if this was the problem for you. We're using 2.5" disks, not 3.5". Whether we format using CLI or GUI, it really shouldn't make a difference. (or take a millenium) For interest's sake, what kind of headunit and USB HDD are you using? So far all the suggestions have been coming from people who haven't been successful or who don't even own the necessary equipment to be able to comment.

Interesting... but this appears to be the command-line way of doing what we've already tried, doesn't it? The interesting part is the active partition idea. By default, Windows doesn't make a formatted primary partition active. I don't think my USB keys are active partitions either, but they work in my headunit. Oh well, it's a 5 minute thing to try... i'll report back!

I'm not considering buying anything new... especially when i'm not convinced that it is a power issue. While the drive linked above can have additional power plugged in, it won't guarantee that the problem is not the USB/IDE controller being incompatible with the head unit or some kind of filesystem issue. I have read that 1.8" HDD's work in some brands of head unit, but again... i'm going to use what I have, or nothing at all. =-]

The only flaw I can find is that the additional power connector on USB HDD's is purely for power, and carries no data. The drive doesn't detect on a PC through that port. If they both carried data, I suspect a computer would get highly confused about the same device being connected twice. Using the cigarrette lighter and my laptop should rule out the power issue... the drive spins up and seems to be working just fine as soon as the power is connected. Good guesses though!

So this has worked for you? Because: 1) I don't, as mentioned above. 2) That is the exact item I used, plus my laptop USB as another test, as mentioned above. 3) That's what i've been doing, as mentioned above. 4) The drive must be FAT32... there are no security permissions with that format... as mentioned above. 5) It most certainly isn't... for ANYONE... as they've all mentioned above. What kind of hard drive do you have in your USB case? I'm keen to at least try what you have!

Another update: I've tried with a cigarette adapter to USB power. It's rated for 1amp draw... which is what the HDD requires according to the label on it. AFAIK, exFAT is an extended partition instead of a primary partition. In theory, it should be a primary partition. I'm not formatting the HDD any differently to the way I format a USB key. I will try an extended partition anyway and let everyone know.

External *desktop* drives do... yes. We're all talking about 2.5" laptop hard drives in USB cases. Whether the physical USB cable has only one or two connections is generally a moot question though, as the additional USB cable is purely there incase your system is unable to power it from one. I have never *ever* needed to use the secondary (power-only) USB end of any of my USB hard drives... and it doesn't seem to make any difference with this headunit either. I suppose if a manufacturer put out a branded USB hard drive (like Maxtor and LaCie) with only one USB connection, then i'd assume that the manufacturer designed the device to work from very little power to the point where a secondary connection would never need to be used. As for me, i'm using a Seagate 5400rpm notebook disk in a very generic case that works just fine from every machine i've ever plugged it into with only one USB connection used. It could very well be a power issue still, but it's odd that my laptop and the headunit together wouldn't get it recognised.

Another update: Just found a 60Gb IBM HDD in a spare laptop. It's 4200RPM, but according to the label it still requires 1amp at 5 volts. It didn't work formatted as a 30Gb FAT32 disk. Tried with laptop power also (which spins the disk up, but no reading of mp3 files)

If you like mate.. but as i've said above, it made no difference for me =-[ Some googling last night showed up a few posts from U.S sites where users hard-wired extra power in. Also, it seems that 1.8" HDD's and some very low-power USB HDD's worked for some people.

I suspect you have some kind of "carpc" dvd headunit right? I had one of those and the USB HDD worked just fine, but in essence the headunit is actually a PC running a custom front-end. It's worth a thought/try if anyone has spare money... i'm going to have to stick with trying to make my old/spare USB HDD work first. =-[ And to all: I'm not entirely convinced that it's a power issue either, as i've already tried powering the disk with a secondary source (laptop), and in any situation the disk seems to power up and spin up correctly, with the headunit detecting a USB input at the same time. Reading the disk/filestructure seems to be a more likely issue at this stage.

Update: 8Gb FAT32 partition, without the stock USB extension cable = fail again. =-/

Oh, and also I will be trying without the stock extension cable... incase there is some kind of loss over distance. After that, i'll see if I can "borrow" a 4200rpm hard disk from one of my laptops. (but I think they're all 5400rpm) =-/