RANDY

I've been wondering about that noise for some time now... I think it's just normal air sounds wooshing through the plenum or something? I have no car issues, no lag, no surging or anything... just that feint hissing noise. Once, I didn't seal my catch-can properly after emptying it, and there was a VERY LOUD hissing noise afterwards (and the car barely idled, but that is too obvious).

JustJap have their own brand of coilpacks, which are supposedly just as good. Otherwise, slidewise or kudos or someone registered on SAU was doing Splitfires for a reasonable price. $500 I think? or $525. You won't save more than $50 importing them from overseas websites.

Jah... since 2 years and 2 months ago when I posted this, i'm running a Kenwood mp3 headunit, with one set of RCA's under the carpet by the drivers side into a 130wrms Jaycar amp (bridged) into my old Sony sub. There was no way I could get sufficient low-end frequencies out of 6.5"s in the parcel shelf. From the headunit, you can go round the passenger footwell, under the ECU in the kickpanel... from there, you can unclip the door-sill (plastic steppy thing that I never step on) and then unclip the carpet. Run them over the raised part that the seat rails bolt to, and then go to the back. Undo the two bolts holding the front seatbelt to the floor, and continue running it towards the rear seat. Remove rear seats (see tutorials on this, but it's easy).. from there, they can run under the seat and through an access hole that comes out on the left of your battery in the boot. I bought my amp because it would fit nicely behind the false wall and sit next to the battery... my RCA's end there. ;o)

Well I mean.. I should be there, but i'm a shift-worker and I get roped into doing a lot of random overtime shifts. 90% sure i'll be able to make it and celebrate the day with you! =-]

hehe! Perhaps? Try dumping fuel in your street infront of the law and see what happens ;o) Thinking about it... the last comment or so about the pizza-box brings up a good point. Same thing will happen with your (parents expensive) coffee table.. pizza box or a hot cup of coffee will turn the laquer white. Perhaps a cheap respray with a crappy clear coat is a little too sensitive? I can picture someone using an angle grinder in a garage where the car once sat.. hot metal sparks fly and land on the boot, boot goes blotchy white, owner buffs it out, car gets washed and then the blotches show up again. That's a long-shot though. Laser Wash have signs up advising all red cars before a certain year to use the wash at their own risk. Older red paints (for some reason unknown to me) fade like buggery in the sun, with heat, or with a certain detergent.

My gf's old, old old car has the same kind of thing... it's actually eaten the paint away though. Someone once told me that it can be the residue after a plane dumps its fuel to land. (although i'd think that it would become a very fine mist from that far up)

Well... if an auto skyline is like an auto Commodore, the radiator cools the oil also. In which case, an oil cooler could very well help depending whether you hook it up to the in or out side of the radiator. Ignore this if you're a manual though, hey? I would guess also, that if the oil is cooler, the water won't get as hot trying to cool the block? So it might be valid anyway? I guess your last few things to try would be to have a mechanic inspect your waterpump, and check the flow of the radiator. You might be able to self-test the radiator flow... if you touch (quickly) the upper and lower radiator hoses, and they're the same temp (hot), then it's probably fair to say that the coolant is making it through the whole system, and that the waterpump is doing its job. (and that the thermostat *is* actually opening) If one side is much much cooler to the touch, then it could be one of those three things: stuck thermostat, faulty waterpump, or a blockage in the core of the radiator. Well.. it's a free test, might be worth a quick check? (Check after some normal driving, and the temps are up to what you don't like. Then engine off, if you're sticking your arm down the inside of the radiator!)

yeah, put me down. It's not going to kill you if I suddenly can't make it, right? =-]

Do you need/want more than the 30 that you've posted? I can be available on the 21st <- Car -Steve

Umm.. take one out of your water reservoir, and try hand-threading that into the threaded holes for the airbox. I'm pretty sure it's the same bolt (length-wise too). I *think* it's 8mm? M8x30 or something like that. (it's quite loong) In any case, if it fits and screws in by hand (not forcefully) just take that bolt to your hardware store and ask for more of those.

Ahhh... Nicely done! So the square tubing (of which I have plenty!) is screwed to the MDF.... but stops before the edge? That overlap would sit on the raised sections of the amp and floor mounts, then get screwed in? No.. not screwed in? You couldn't get to your tyre if that was the case. Thanks for the explanation! (and good luck pulling those hard disk magnets off the spare!!!) =-D

What if you just gently cruise up to 2500+ ?

Ditto to the bracing! =-o So, a question for you... What supports the MDF in the middle (over the spare tyre)? I did a VERY similar setup but over time the floor started to sag horribly. Laptop, shopping... nothing majorly heavy went in there. Also, how did you mount the MDF to the floor? Cheers!

Glad to hear that the "phase" suggestion helped a bit. To be honest, my front speakers sound great in the doors... but to the point where the bass was rattling the window and other things (I went round and padded things, cable-tied, tightened bolts.. etc etc) So in the end, running the door speakers on mid-neutral and using a sub in the boot seemed like the best solution. I'm quite happy with my setup this way (which is the same way i've done in previous cars... I started out not wanting a sub when I got the Skyline) Tweeter, mid, sub. Each do a specific job ;o)

So... I want one of these, but unmodified. This one has no middle muffler? =-[ Where on ebay are you seeing it for $650???

So... the boot lining inbetween the taillights rattled on mine. I put some Dynamat against the metal before the carpet clips back on. Now... the other one. Jesus it took ages to find! The keybarrel in the boot rattles like a bastard! And it's not the keybarrel being loose or anything, it's the mechanism INSIDE the keybarrel that rattles. The only way to quieten it is to try and wrap it in foam and an elastic band to muffle the sound. Try it anyway. I could get mine rattling by thumping the inside of the bootlid with my hand. (no carpet on bootlid)

Might be silly, but unplug one speaker while playing bassy music. If the bass increases, you may need to swap a positive and negative around on one of the speakers. They *may* be running out of phase with each other, thus cancelling each other out. A very long shot, but i've seen this happen before.

I was about to suggest that the noise would come back. It did after I got my car back... a few days and the rears started... then a few weeks and the fronts are going mental!

Phill: yeah man! There are quite a few Skylines in Frenchs Forest. I'll see one or two per day (not always the same ones). Cept Stan when he drives through, the black R33 next door at work, and a yellow R34GTR that seems to head up to Monavale or Terry Hills via forest way road, and my mate Geoff in his Silver s2. Those are the regulars. I'm up for a quiet cruise sometime!

Geoff! That's crazy dude! I'll look up FAST for ya.. if the part number is the same, I guess you can whack a series 1 antenna in? I bought something recently from "slighten" in the FS section. He's parting out an entire R33 and was quite helpful (and reasonably priced!) Hit him up, perhaps?

Mine arrived like that too.. big Kenwood boxes with lightup bits on it. The mid and bass drivers were just completely missing, and the unit only had tweeters in it! Anyway, if there are any passive crossover type magic going on, they could even be just a resistor and/or inductor soldered inline with the speaker wire (usually on the back of the speaker itself, or inside a box.. if it's boxed)

The green one! Nah... anything decent-brand with corrosion inhibitor. You probably don't need anything with antifreeze, which narrows it down a bit. Castrol, Nulon etc... If you're doing a complete flush, you shouldn't need to worry about mixing different brands, and you can start with almost anything you like. (and you'll know what you can top it up with after that)

And Nissan FAST seems to confirm this. (ECR33) A little bag of shim grease. ooer!

Fair enough... but he's never steered me wrong before, and you should HEAR what he says about mechanics that smear brake goo on the back of pads! =-o (my word!) I might persist with it a bit longer and look into those shims. I know I have the four little corner ones, and the solid faced bits... but I don't recall seeing the vented ones. =-/

Update: So my squeal has come back loud and proud. =-[ My mechanic still refuses to smear any kind of compound on the shims and wants to have another look soon. Interestingly... someone mentioned that the standard kit comes with some silver grease or whatever... and went on to talk about vented shims and solid shims etc. I'm pretty keen to see if I have all the required parts, and found this image: