RANDY

I'll give you a fairly un-educated answer to tie you over till the pro's arrive. ;o) My guess is: probably not.

Yer... I probably wouldn't trust the brackets to be well grounded actually. Failing the rubber boot surround bit, perhaps go for something around your handbrake? Removing the entire centre console at the point you are now is just a few extra screws.

Times three! I sanded the metal ring part (after removal. Easy), stuck a bolt and washer over one hole, then sprayed the whole thing black gloss. Remove the bolt and washer, and you have a perfectly clean grounding point. Attach ground wire after re-installing it all and then spray or rub with some kind of lubricant (WD40, etc), which will stop the bare metal from rusting.

I have something similar... my passenger seatbelt rattles. The solution is to push it slightly down so that it wedges against the padding of the seat. (if driving alone) Perhaps have a look at that while you're at it?

I'd put my money on Chris's answer ;o)

Is it powered via that red cable? I guess the other option is an antenna BOOSTER, rather than a range expander. Someone may have run a TV screen kinda HU seperately and needed better tv reception. My reception (radio) is pretty aweful most of the time. =-[

You can unscrew the LED part from the wing without removing the wing from the boot. You can then unplug and pull the LED part out and test 12v directly to it. No light = dead LED array. From there, the plastic didn't look like it was designed to be serviceable inside. You could seperate it all and then have an electronics guy try to fix the PCB.... or you can do what I did and look for a broken standard wing with a working LED strip in it. (or just the strip if anyone will sell it to you)

If he's talking about the o-rings that seal between the injector and where it seats... then yes. If you can remove them with the fuel rail intact, then you probably don't need to depressurize the system either. I did it on my last car (commodore) after leaving it overnight... so when I did pull them out, they didn't squirt fuel everywhere.

Any offers considered!

Umm.. no idea. I was just saying that if you *DO* use an RCA splitter to your 4-channel amp, you shouldn't have any problems with voltage over RCA. If your setup wasn't working from the outset, it's worth trying this method. It'll only cost you $20-30 for the splitters and maybe an hour of your time.

You know... I wouldn't be entirely surprised if it's the same one as a Nissan Pulsar uses. Last time I drove one I recall the stalks being pretty identical (aprt from not having the foglight switch?) Still. By far your best bet is to hit up the "for sale" area and look for people wrecking entire cars. They'll usually be more than happy to answer a question, and will probably have one for you. (of course, it's used and it might happen again, but then again... the replacement may never fail, and it will probably cost you 10% of a new one)

heh... see the rather long thread in the braking and suspension area ;o)

As per topic title... I have 6 coilpacks. One or more of them might be fine, and you might be able to mix-n-match to get rid of your misfire? If anyone can direct me to the resistance test for coilpacks, i'm happy to post results. $50 neg Shipping is probably $20 to anywhere via express post. Cheers!

I work next door to where Lexmark used to be. (cept i'm a 2-door) And there is a black series 2 also parked where Lexmark used to be... I dunno what company is there now though... something to do with ATM's.

As above.. if you have a speaker-to-RCA type of converter to get a 2nd pair of RCA outputs.... don't bother =-] My last setup (previous car) was easily done by buying two RCA splitters (10cm long) and splitting the RCA right at the amp. I didn't have any problems with interference or loss of voltage over the RCA's. It was just as if I had two sets of pre-outs. (except for having to balance front/rear via the amp)

So your switch is fine, right? Maybe tell us what they actually checked? That box looks like a window motor regularor or something. ? I can't remember what your car and mine has exactly, but on my last car I could unscrew the button on the B-pillar, and clean the metal contact. I would imaging that the Skylines are similar? If so, I don't see why you'd need a special electrical board to short a wire? The button should un-short when the door is closed, and when you open, a spring pushes the button out, which is also attached to a metal spade-bit... which touches the inside of the b-pillar and creates a circuit.

I guess the next step is to eliminate either the sub or amp from the problem. Hook up an ordinary car speaker or something to the amp instead of the sub. Don't turn it up super-loud, but if it works, the sub is dead. (possibly burnt voice-coil or something?)

Found the new springs, or found the old coilpacks to swipe springs from?

if it's a "Bleed" bleed valve, and not the ball-and-spring that some people call a "bleed valve", then changing it would certainly help, I would think. It's bleeding off some boost, whereas the ball-and-spring type holds it until the desired pressure is reached before it releases anything. I guess you could check your blowoff valve too? Take it off, clean it, press the spring in by hand and make sure it's fairly tight. (or test it with an aircompressor if you can) And.... maybe also check the wastegate actuator? If it's coming open, or it's stuck semi-open, it'll be bypassing some of your exhaust gasses. I wouldn't think a highflow turbo would delay boost by *that* much, so i'd check the above things first. (and even intercooler pipe leaks, but you'd be running rough if they were leaking... generally)

searchie McSearch =-] I've seen this asked quite a few times, and there is a lot of stuff you need to do/change/remove. Oil and water lines, different ECU (stock will be VERY rich with no turbo, i've read?) new exhaust parts etc etc. I think the simplest solution offered each time was to sell the car.

So you now have 12v out of the remote wire? And the amp doesn't turn on still? Is this where you're at? Or are you saying that the amp is on, but no sound from the sub?

If not, i'm sure they've gotta be the same material and size as the normal coils? If so, i've got a set of mis-firing stock coils... depending on where you are. Not sure if it's worth posting them interstate. Did you keep your old ones?

Nice work, Josh =-] I'd still opt for the series 2 turbo... Only cause i'm well-impressed with how mine performs. (on 10psi) I'm sure the earlier spool on a smaller engine would be a good thing?

HU on after car off? Could you have the ignition and constant power mixed up on the HU? And you've checked your remote wire from the HU to the amp, right? A multimeter should show 12v on it when the HU is on. Can you check all the above with a multimeter and get back to us?

Do a little search. People have put detailed descriptions on how to remove it. Heck, it's only 4 bolts anyway, but find the guide if you can.