RANDY

So from what i've read/heard, the later number is the later turbo... 1 and 2 came on series 1 and 1.5, v3 and v4 came on series 2's.... Series 2 has a nylon/plastic/whatever compressor wheel, thus it spools earlier/quicker. I really thought the dual-fin was the series 2, to help spool lower down. Man, now i'm confused!

I've been there six or so times before, and never been fully happy with any of the work. I'm not trying to diss the thread, but if anyone I cared about asked me, i'd advise them not to bother. Twice on the one system the hangars snapped clean off, another time the hangar was sharp with welding bits that cut through the rubber hooky-thing. Once when I was there, another customer with a Prelude was having his exhaust changed, and they welded the rear muffler on at an angle (like... 5 degrees counter-clockwise)... the customer pointed it out, so the installer got two long pieces of metal rod and stuck one in each hole of the new twin muffler and then bent one up and one down until the tips roughly lined up with each other. After that guy left and they were still dicking around with MY car, he turns to me and says something to the effect of "F*&king picky, or what?" Never went back after that. I tried my luck with Cromer exhaust... but they were about the same with their workmanship. My mechanic tells me that there isn't any decent exhaust places on the North Shore, and that's why i've never had a reliable exhaust. Oh well. I'm not saying everyone will get that kind of lack of attention to detail or pride in their work, but I feel it's my duty to share. =-]

I use plastic polish and kitchen paper on my R33 lights... but that only lasts a month or two before the haze comes back. (it's like white mold or something!)

If you can get your ratchet (short) onto the locking bolt (1), and then the adjuster bolt (2), WITH the fan in place... then you should be able to drop the belt off by feeding the loop over a couple of the fan-blades at a time. With the alternator quite loose and pushed towards the motor, the belt will pretty much fall off. Otherwise, it's 4 or 5 bolts holding the fan on. No biggie. Actually... the power steering pump belt is infront of the alternator belt... isn't it? You just need to do the same procedure to the powersteering pump and remove that belt first, then the 2nd. Put the PS one back on, and then the new alternator belt. The locking nut for the PS pump is accessible THROUGH one of the holes in the pulley of the PS pump. The adjusting bolt is a mirror-flip of the alternator one. (i.e, facing the right-side of the car)

Black '96 Series 2 R33 GTST Live in Frenchs Forest, work in Frenchs Forest, but I do a fair bit of driving around to Dee Why, Manly, Warriewood etc. I see a white R34GTT going around (not Stan, I don't think), and another stockish-looking black R33 going down my street... and there is another one that works next door to me (Telectron?) Occasionally I see a yellow R34GTR getting about, and yesterday I saw a 4-door R33 near Forestway shops. It'd be interesting to see if any of these guys are on the forums. =-]

To everyone who says "there were plenty of nicer cars around" in situations like this, bear in mind... those cars probably have an obvious alarm or immobiliser. A thief will go for the easiest option available, and if your car looks like a royal pain in the butt to steal, they'll look for something quicker. No alarm or immobiliser means they just have to pry the window, hit the button, get in, quickly snap the steering lock, and then start the car with the ignition wires or however they do it. (i'm sure it's not *quite* as easy as the movies make it out to be) Picture someone trying to do that while an alarm is screaming its head off, and then picture them finding all the immobiliser wires for the starter motor, fuel pump, ignition... that will add a LOT of time, and they will probably just look for another car with no alarm on it, laugh to themselves, and think "this is too easy". I guess it's up to the individual to ensure that it's NOT too easy. I'm not trying to have a go at you, but i've had my last car broken into twice and i've learnt from my mistake... the first mod I did to my Skyline was to put the best alarm that I could afford into it. If anyone can learn from this before it happens to them, then we've done a good deed. =-]

score!

It sounds a lot like either: Your remote wire is dead... so bridging it turns the amp on... but this would keep the amp on indefinitely. More likely, as guessed, you are running the amp off the remote wire, and the power cable you're using to the battery is just not connected properly. It should have an inline fuse (ideally). If it has one, check it. Otherwise, get a multimeter and test the continuity from the battery positive terminal to the amp positive terminal without the bridging wire.

Providing they don't leak, eh!? So... do you have pics of the heaterbox assembly also? Specifically the magic clicking motor/lever/whatever that most R33's have? (and perhaps a pic of the direction it sits behind the dash) Cheers!

So if you're sure there's a short... I guess it's a matter of finding out where it is? If you go to continuity mode, and test the positive of a globe socket to the chassis of the car... does it show a short? I'm not sure what kind of resistance between + and - you should normally see... so that's the way I generally test. A bad earth shows up with the above method also. (as you probably know) Failing that, could you perhaps test from one terminal of the fuse holder to the rear plate (with very long extension cables on the multimeter) with the multimeter set to "volts"? That would show how much, if any, voltage is being dropped across that piece of wire. I guess if that works as a good test, you could then try each suspect point until you narrow down the cable that's shorting?

It will look hot compared to the stockers. Sorry, I don't have any pics of mine handy. If this thread is still around tomorrow and no replies, i'll go outside and take a shot. (in the light)

As above... if you have the stock plastic pods already there, then I think it depends on what your car was optioned with? I wanted to replace my parcelshelf a while back and found a tonne of photo's from various r33's. None of them seemed to be the same! (and they were stock-looking) I ended up making my own parcel shelf out of 12mm mdf and making my own holes in it for all the bits and pieces. As for the metal part (structural) of the parcel tray (under the wooden board), the holes are PLENTY big enough for 6.5" speakers. Probably even 6x9's if you really wanted to. The only thing to worry about is the battery and any ABS unit (if any)... they may limit the mounting depth of your speakers. Measure it up first, eh? ;o)

nps! Part numbers FTW! =-]

So.. Nissan FAST says it's a "Module Skid"... so I think your guess was correct. Some kind of ABS unit. The diagram is exactly like that unit also.

At a guess, i'd imagine that a dead speaker would just stop working completely, and your amp shouldn't much care about the working speaker. It should remain at full volume. Have you checked your gains on the amp? Failing that, check the F/R fader controls on your headunit. If you fade to the rear, most HU's that i've used will fade to the RCA's also. So if you faded to the front, and you only had one set of RCA outputs to the amp, it would fade the front away (because the front is actually running off the RCAs, which are treated as a "rear" output generally)

I'm curious as to what arm you could see from the engine bay? Mine will switch to "face" under certain circumstances, but generally if the fan is going fairly fast to get up or down to my desired temperature, it will stay on "feet" only. I'm not sure why yours would change all the time, other than the "mode" button being stuck, or something funny like that? I don't know the correct procedure, but you can force the AC unit to display diagnostics in the form of numbers. This tells you if any temp sensors are stuffed. Have a search for that?

If it's for your Integra, I would guess it's because the factory holes are for 4-5" drivers, and you want to fit something larger? Most drivers taper off in diameter as they go down to the magnet, so by raising them up, your 6ers may sit nicely in the 4-5" hole. I'm also guessing that audio guru's would suggest using wood-based rings rather than plastic rings. I know I would! Dunno if you'd get any better sound pressure level by doing it, but I recken wooden rings wouldn't reverberate like plastic ones would.

I don't know... but I doubt it? The clock uses a liquid crystal display.... I don't know much about how they illuminate a particular colour, but I don't think it will be an LED shining through the display. A quick wiki search shows this: So I guess it might be possible if you were somehow able to unbind the colour filter from the LCD. Highly unlikely, I'd guess.

Interesting... I thought there would be a longer, more definitive thread on this topic. I've seen plenty of skylines squealing while braking, and thought I was pretty lucky to have a very mild noise very rarely. I had DBA gold slotted and drilled rotors, and apparently some really really screwed bendix ultimates. That's how I bought the car two years ago anyway. So i've just had all my discs machined, and new EBC green pads put in. Costs a fortune (to me), but it brakes even better than the ultimates. (and I used to use them in my last car... v8 berlina) So i've had ultimates a fair few times before. My mechanic didn't want to give me my car back because while he was bedding them in, they developed the most horridly loud squeal. Suffice to say I was made to bring it back the next day. Apparently there are some little shims that clip onto a sliding pin? He susses those out, and decided that my shims that sit behind the pads were rooted. They got changed, and now the front is quiet.... all the time. But the REARS... oh my god! I think I could permanently deafen 20+ people waiting at a bus-stop if I really wanted to. With the windows up, it's unbearable. =-[ So he's already cleaned the discs, calipers, pads, shims etc etc etc before the problem even came about, and he pretty much refuses to use any kind of brake goo. It's going back to him on Friday, and he's talking about "linishing"(sp?) the rear pads? Well in any case, my mechanic is great. (before anyone says otherwise) I'm not just saying this, it's just true. But the point of this update is for other "squealers" (that's what i'm calling you guys with squealing brakes) Hopefully i'll have it sorted on Friday, and I can add another solution to this thread. I might even take a little phone-cam footage of the noise.

Cheers! Glad you liked it! I should really post up my "after" results, hey?

None of those will work. They're not a "drop-in" kind of globe. You can buy them from DSE though, and they're called "Grain of wheat". You have to wrap the wires in the same manner as this LED guide... no T5 or anything like that. The unit comes with its own globe-holders that you need to re-use.

I've heard that some keys need to "resync" with the rolling code setup... although I wouldn't have thought that the stocker had this feature. But it won't hurt to try! Hold the unlock button for 10 seconds or something while the car is locked? Failing that, try turning the ignition to "on" and hold unlock for 10 secs. All wild guesses, but it can't hurt to try, right?

Or if you want to be fancy-pants, the Jaycar 4channel response amp will do nicely! You can bridge the fronts for one connection, and bridge the rears for the other. Both sides will be fully adjustable as far as gain and crossover goes. You could even run one sub as "punchy" bass, and let the other do really *really* low bass. (providing your enclosure isn't open to both subs internally)

Got pics? I don't have ABS, and I don't have anything directly underneath my HICAS unit. So... perhaps?

Shouldn't be more than a day or two... And yes, same badge on left and right (as you've prolly figured out now) And as for the price, my "S" badge on the bonnet cost me $65 =-o