RANDY

Oh noes! They're sold already =-[

SOLD! I'll take them if they're perfectly working? I'm not mis-reading anything, am I? They'll go in my car, won't they Nick? Call me ASAP pls! =-D

I'll dig around. I completely cleaned mine out when I first got my car. It only takes about 10 minutes to strip all the carpety bits out (and the spare wheel)

Yerpp... my replacement (used) coils are now failing me. Mine hesitates and pops all over the place. Time to fork out for some Splitfires I think. =-[

It can also becoming in around the brake-light area. Check the link in my sig for more info on that! =-]

Amen! And where would we find such items? I think i'd like to give this a go. Sometimes mine squeal badly, sometimes they don't make a damn sound! =-/ Double Amen!

Mine does the same... Anything low and the whole car sounds like it's about to fall apart. I found originally that the stock heatshielding on the stock exhaust was loose and making the problem much more obvious, so I removed it. Now the sound is only coming from around the front. As soon as the revs are up a little more, whether you are booting it or just cruising up to speed) it goes away completely. I *DO* find though, that it happens MUCH more easily when cornering. Every morning I pull out from my street in first, and shift to 2nd as i'm turning, or I just turn in 2nd if there are no cars and I don't need to stop... this makes the noise every time without fail. I think I need to keep it in first while cornering, with lots of go, and some opposite lock. =-/

Usually a white or milky substance is when water mixes with oil... like... if you had a blown head-gasket or something. Your white gunk is well above the thread, where the rubber boot of the coilpack would normally be. So I'd rule that one out. It's also nowhere near where the sparkplug arcs... so it shouldn't be a mixture thing. It could be old grease maybe? Someone put new plugs in with a really filthy sparkplug socket or something?

Perhaps the unit is dead? If it's wired up correctly and it still doesn't work... then you run it from 12v and it STILL doesn't work... maybe?

So... perhaps a heads up? If this is correct... Series 2 R33 has the ignitor built into the ECU, so you probably can't use the RB20 ECU in a series 2, right?

R32's have a series? =-o I'd probably just aim for a year-model if you're not sure. I think they were made from 89 to 93?

Those are wedge-bulb LED's... 1) You need to unwrap the wires before you pull the bulbs out. 2) I have not found any pre-made bulbs that will work in those holders Apart from that... I have a couple of working ones here. I changed mine to LED's, but that was self-made. It's doable.

1) Pop cap off the end of the arm 2) Unbolt nut (14mm?) 3) Pull and wiggle. Hehe! It's that easy man. Same as any other car really. The cap is the round "dome" like thing, which will have a little marking around the outside of it where you can pop a small flat-head screwdriver. A little twist of the screwdriver, and the cap will lever off. Pay attention as to where the wiper blades sit on the windscreen, so that when you put them back on, they line up. If you miss this, it's just trial and error lining the wiper up with the spline when you put it back on. Step 4... gloss black spraypaint from AutoOne ;o) Ummm... you can take the blade off the arm too. It's a clip that depresses, and then you slide the blade part downwards and it slides off the arm.

So if you're using the above link... it's got that USB to serial adapter. First thing to check is to have your device manager open when you plug the usb-end in. Make sure you see an extra com-port detected. Note the com-port numer (probably 3), and then check your consult software for com port settings. Make it match! From memory, mine has to be on ignition or running for the software to find the ECU. If I turn the engine off at any time, I have to go back to ignition and wait for it to redetect the ECU. Also, have the consult end plugged in before you plug the USB end in, and make sure the software is completely exited before all of that. Sometimes usb-serial converters come with backround software that locks up, so reboot your laptop if it works, but then stops working while you're mucking around. Man.. that cable looks super-dodgy! It's an ATX mainboard power plug with pins sticking out of it. Nasty! At very least, i'd get the genuine plug from Mearcat and rewire it. I got the blaztbits (or whatever) cable. It's a modular, inline usb to consult cable. The componentry is sealed within the cable itself... very neat! Cost $100 plus shipping.

It's slightly rich, if you're talking about the perfect ratio... but otherwise it's "safer" to have it a little rich. (rather than a little lean)

A non-turbo R33? JustJap should be able to rip some used ones out of a wreck. As for the symptoms, they sound pretty right for a coilpack issue. Mine did (and now still does) the same thing. My used packs lasted a year and a half, so now it's time to buy splitfires. I'm not sure if you can find splitfires for your particular application, but one of the business traders sells splitfires for most of the turbo skylines. (Kudos motorsport?) Worst case, i'm sure you can buy them new from Nissan for more than that.

Well.. can't hurt now that it's sold, but www.fluidtek.com.au in Sydney do em for $230 (got three of them at home) For a cheap monitor, I rate them!

Infact... the popping and crackling can also be a dead speaker. The RCA-swap will prove or disprove that one quickly!

ah ok... static... there's plenty of threads on this, and no "one" answer to solve them all (as far as i've ever seen). Someone like Chris Rogers can probably fix it within a day if you put it in his hands, but diagnosing it yourself isn't easy without spares. =-[ I got the same kind of thing through my speakers, and I tried just about EVERYTHING (seriously!) So I changed my plans and just ran my sub from the amp, which is fine.. the alternator whine noise was too high-pitch for the crossover setting i'm using on the amp for my sub. I got it ONLY on one pair of RCA's (I have two sets for output) If I switched them around, the sound would follow. Swapped cables, swapped amps, repaired burnt-out grounding track on the PCB of my headunit... all didn't help. I think my HU is still bad, but I don't have another one to test it with. It could be anything from a headunit or amp dead ground (internally) or the RCA cables are faulty. For RCA, this can be a broken grounding somewhere along the way, crappy grounding which introduces noise past the battery or some ECU wiring behind the dash... you name it. =-/

So it's straight speaker terminals on the back? If so, and you've connected some kind of speaker directly to it to test, then (this is a wild guess) perhaps there is some kind of output selection you can do on the unit? Maybe you can switch between RCA outputs (for an amp) or direct speaker hookup (which you are running now) Lastly, if that all checks out, get a multimeter with a continuity test function, and check that each end of the speaker wire goes to the correct place. Unplug one speaker, hold probe to negative wire, then touch other probe to the negative(ground) speaker wire that ran into the back of the player (i.e the same piece of wire). etc etc.

Well... it'd be good to check the contents of your gearbox oil when you drain it. (looking for metal flakes or shards). If it's worn synchro's, it's worn synchros and you can only change them (probably quite expensive.. it's gearbox out and in, plus parts) Timing belt i'm still betting on, but the boost lost me. Might want to take pics of your current setup and/or mention what the current setup is. I'm guessing you went back to the stock controller? If so, it gives 5psi under 4500rpm, and 7psi over that. If it's going to 10psi, then you've got some mad boost-spike problem. Either it's excessively long boost controller piping or something else strange. Get it short, and get the turbotech (or whatever) cheap manual boost controller to test this out. I run one on 10psi, and it doesn't spike one bit!

I'm no expert, but the less the better? There really shouldn't be ANY if it's perfect, right? I guess if the oil is leaking through the turbo and out the exhaust side... =blue?

woah! Well... this might be a band-aid solution, but Redline gearbox oil helps with crunchy gears. The knocking *could* be your timing belt slapping against the cover.

So... I have the same problem as of 3 days ago. Replaced my iridium plugs today, and it's slightly better. Nothing has changed, and the car is pretty darn stock (10psi though). I'll keep this post updated.

If anyone has one lying around after doing a catch-can installation, i'm keen to get a good/perfect condition breather pipe. Mine has a small split in the end, so it needs to be replaced. I'm sure a new one wouldn't cost much, but a used one should do me fine. Anyone have one? Cheers!