RANDY

No worries! umm... hmmm... You want the 4 LED's to be in a series chain though... so that the voltages add together. If they run in parallel they are still each getting the same power from the one resistor, and each LED is only wanting 2.1v. i.e: if your resistor is dropping 1.6 volts, then each LED is still seeing 12-1.6 = 8.4v EACH. So... it should go: Negative power to each series of LED- Set #1: resistor - neg LED1 pos - neg LED2 pos - neg LED3 pos - neg LED4 pos - positive power. Set #2: resistor - neg LED1 pos - neg LED2 pos - neg LED3 pos - neg LED4 pos - positive power. Set #3: resistor - neg LED1 pos - neg LED2 pos - neg LED3 pos - neg LED4 pos - positive power. Set #4: resistor - neg LED1 pos - neg LED2 pos - neg LED3 pos - neg LED4 pos - positive power. Positive power to each series of LED+ Each series will draw 2.1x4 = 8.4v.. so you can work out the resistor needed for each series to drop the additional 1.6v, and that resistor will probably be small and not heat up too much. 1/4 watt is probably fine for that voltage. do 1/2watt to be safe? Well, if your final product looks anything like the above, it should work well and not heat up the resistors too much, and should last forever! =-D

Still looks like you're splitting the power AFTER the resistor. oh oh... i'm still a bit wonky from a nightshift, but you have 8 LEDs in parallel. So you are drawing 2.1v eight times. The resistor is probably calculated for the total voltage, not 2.1 If you run the neg of one LED to the pos of another LED, that would be in series, and you could calculate it that way, but still 16v or so is too much. You need to run two sets of parallels. I'll reply again when I wake up.

You can lock both, but unlock only does the drivers? As above the solanoid should lock the passenger side, regardless of whether you are using a remote or doing it by hand. I'd suggest pulling the door skin off the passenger side and checking the rods that connect to the actuator/inner door handle/outside handle, and make sure none of them have slipped. There are several places you can move an adjuster to kinda "pretension" the rod. More like aligning its throw really. Anyway.. check it if noone has an obvious solution.

What speed are you going at when you try to go to first!?? Mine (and many other Skylines i've been in) won't go into first unless you are practically stopped. I don't think you're SUPPOSED to go to first from a speed that would carry you in 3rd-4th. As for the crunch, the redline gearbox oil took a lot of crunch away for me and many others here.

Where are you getting power from? Most things will be 12 volts (lighting etc) So you have two negative, and one positive going in.. with a resistor on the positive side? You have 8 LED's at the top, and 8 at the bottom? Is that right? If so, that's a total voltage drop of 8x2.1... 16.8v... just for one side! Way too much for 12v. (you don't want to draw more than 10v at a time) If you can rig it so that you have four negative points (4 LED's to a circuit = 8.4v), and run one resistor per circuit, you should be fine. Those four circuits can run in parallel to each other, so there is only ever 8.4 volts being drawn...

On the same note, if you drove while drunk you could be much worse off. I think you did the right thing. (hopefully not "for once"!!)

There's no chance that the stepper motor or levers on the heaterbox can be replaced with this same method?... you know... the clicking when you change temps or start the car.

I certainly wouldn't use only two... four is the magic number! You really don't EVER want to be under your car while it's being fully or partially supported by a jack. I know how you feel though... tiny little surface of the stands holding your car up, and it looks dodgy the first few times you do it... but a mate of mine helped me get over it. Under his car, bracing against the wall, with a breaker bar trying to undo something... whole car shakes around on the stands.. but it doesn't budge. Same thing getting the gearbox out of my car. So now I do the same.. jack it up, 4 stands, then release the jack a little so it's about 1cm from the diff or whatever you're jacking from, and then give the car a bit of a shove. It won't budge. ;o)

Wrap the dump eh? I was going to ask this when I changed mine.... anyway, R34SMIC works well for me. I started on 7psi with the manual ball and spring controller, then 9, now 10psi (as I get bored with the power) Seems to be fine, and power doesn't drop off as though there is massive heat-soak or anything. I'm yet to hook up a temp probe to check this all out though.

Yep, I did know this, but I should clarify... Stuff putting the stock vents back in, vent the shelf some other way. I'd be tempted to put two 2" bass ports in the shelf instead, and covering it with speaker mesh. 2" hole-saw bit would have been much quicker.

My Kenwood KDC5029 or whatever has an optional ipod adapter for it... I think a few in that model range do it too. I picked my HU up for $200 about a year ago (second hand, but unused) Optional adapter is about $70US, and I can only seem to source it on the US ebay. (not that I want it)

Indeed ;o) You don't need to remove the boot or anything from the shifter. It's clearly visible from under the car... just when you start unscrewing it, the end hits part of the underbody, so you MAY need to shift the whole box to the passenger side. If not, it's a simple in-out affair. Get your mechanic to do it next time you get a service, or on your rego inspection.

Probably incorrect information entered. You might want to post in the "VINS you want fasted" thread and have someone look it up for you. The Nissan software is the final word. ;o)

In hindsight... stuff those stupid vent thingies! It wasn't worth the time to hack little notches and finely balance a jigsaw to make the holes for them. Bear in mind, thicker wood means you'll have to get a router-bit to angle the side that sits flush with the rear windscreen, or your whole piece will be too long. The window is like... < and your wood is | Together: <| So you want: << Just follow those pics, use a real one as a template if you can. I don't think it'll be easy without it.

My Commodore developed this problem some time back.. it was the water-runoff kinda holes where your windscreen meets your firewall. I forget what my Skyline looks like around that area, but the Commy had holes with mesh into the front quarter panels for the water to drain out. Problem is, the water just drains straight out onto the firewall part, which is usually not painted... just primed (on the inside of the quarter panel and inside of the firewall... the engine-bay side is painted). So it rusted a little hole through, then the water just slid down the inside of the firewall, under the carpet, and pooled on the passenger side floor. I couldn't find any water anywhere but on the floor, and the top of the carpet was dry. Did my head in until I stripped back the carpet for a week in heavy rain. If you can't see where it's coming from, i'm still betting on gravity, and would suggest that it's coming from ABOVE, and checking under the car might not be the answer. =-] I could be very wrong, but I doubt the floorpan has rusted away.

I'm not entirely sure that it will be printed on the rim? If you do a google search or two, you can find how to work it out for yourself with a ruler and a wheel off. (roughly, I guess). It's the distance from the mounting point to the centreline of the width of the rim. =-]

I think the idea of a steel exhaust wheel is that they can take more heat and spin faster without shattering like a ceramic wheel would. Dunno about the nylon compressor ones, but i'd GUESS that a steel compressor wheel is stronger than nylon? I've always beleived that the nylon wheels only let go when the rear ceramic wheel breaks. (shaft unbalances and the nylon fins hit the inside of the turbo). 33 and 34 turbo's still have ceramic rear wheels (I think? Definately the 33's do), and I think that is where your main worry should be. Too much heat and too fast RPM for the rear ceramic wheel will make it break... THEN your front nylon wheel will thrash around until it breaks, and sends plastic through your cooler and into your intake manifold... and so on.

lol.. I was in contact with that seller straight away. Very rude and told me to "READ". I told them that it doesn't actually mention that she/he is selling the list only. I then contacted the winning bidder and let him know, and he was pissed, but got out of it.

Same pocket, and apparently the same pocket as a N15 Pulsar? You can get them a little more easily if you ask for one of those.

If the motor was weak, and the rods were catching on your doortrim or something, then that would stop it from working. To explain further on what the other guys were saying.. if you lock the drivers side door, you're overriding the motor for that door, but the passenger door gets the signal to lock/unlock when the drivers one is locked/unlocked... even if done manually. Same way that if you lock the drivers door from the inside, the passengers side will lock automatically.

Sorry, Trav.. been busy. $570 all up. $70 for the solanoid and hookup. I asked for the 4-button remote, but I think that's standard on the 456 Premier? (the one I got) Yes... that's right, it was Leon from Security In Motion who did mine a couple of years ago. It's Australian insurance approved, and you get a certificate and all that for your insurance co.

I have the full split dump and front pipe in one, made by (I think) foolboost (on SAU). I don't think he was on SAU when he was selling them on ebay, but his look totally like the ones that were on ebay at the time. I had him make one pretty identical to BATMBL's one... that is, with the eyebrow seperating the wastegate chamber from the main exhaust outlet. Sooo... if this is for your GTST, i'd recommend getting something like that... a full dump and front pipe in one, rather than have two pieces bolted together. I guess if you have a 3" front pipe, this part will be cheaper to buy, and you can swap just that section out if you change your turbo down the line... Otherwise, I *LOVE* my front/dump pipe. =-D

I think it's VERY Mazda 3... but then a whole bunch of people seem to have beaten me to the call! =-[

Get it, it rocks. If you're in Sydney, hit up "security in motion" (registered here). They did my install, and i'm a fan of the stealthy job! At the time of booking, I asked about a solanoid in the boot for a remote release. $70 and he wired that in quite nicely with the alarm. My only gripes you might want to keep in mind: I recommended the same alarm to a friend with the same car, and both our remotes were weak as anything. Mine stopped 2 months later, and I just bought new batteries from JayCar. Now it works 100% and from around 50m away. The installer stuffed around for 30 minutes trying to get better reception via the antenna wire. Same story from my friends install. So.. change batteries if this happens. Secondly... the siren isn't all that loud. You can have a conversation next to your car while it's going off. I park right next to my house (carport) and can hear the damn cat running around, so it's not a problem with the soft siren... but perhaps ask about any kind of db ratings, or whether they have other sirens that can be installed. Apart from that, I love it.

INTER COOLER lol =-] Well... at least it mentioned where some of the clips were... might have been handy to describe how to undo the factory foglights/indicators on the series 2 (which was used in the slideshow)