RANDY

Sounds more like the backfire half-killed your AFM? If I reset my ECU, the car runs pretty much exactly as it did before the reset. It'd mostly be listening for knock and adjusting timing based on the fuel you use and the temp it runs at.... it shouldn't run POORLY afterwards.. I wouldn't have thought?

Self-tuning is much more difficult, and quite innacurate. You need to have a tuner do it for you on a dyno with an air/fuel guage. The whole purpose of the unit is to modify air flow signals.

Mine did that when my coilpacks were stuffed.. but it also did it badly up around 4500rpm. Changed the packs to fix the high-rev problem, and now it idles perfectly! Two birds and one stone.

No.. but thought about it after reading an autospeed article a while back. As said above, prolly no good unless you are trying to get rid of heatsoak quickly when you stop.

I'm quite tired, but... if the LED was reversed, you could possibly run power to the EARTH side, and use the LOAD to go out to the actuator, and then use SUPPLY for a ground to chassis. That would allow the LED to illuminate when you give the switch some ground (turn switch "on"), while giving ground to the actuator. It would also light up when you had it "off" and went over 4500rpm, as the LED will see ground from the actuator when the ECU gives it some. I *think*.... but you'd have to swap the led around, cause as I said... diode... one-way.

lol... 5.40AM in the morning on a Friday... not likely to get many responses until everyone wakes up and "works from home" ;op

I'd imagine that the "supply" for a switch originally would have had positive power going to it, so that when you close the circuit (switch "on"), the middle leg would output power to your device (coupled with the "earth" that is constantly grounded for the LED). With the grounding mod, you're not running any positive power to the switch, you're just using it to break/complete the grounding... as the stock ECU grounds the solanoid wire to run 7psi over 4500rpm. So... as it is now, you'd use LOAD to the chassis, and SUPPLY from the actuator/solanoid (or vice-versa, doesn't matter). Close the circuit, solanoid sees ground... runs 7psi. I don't think you'd want to use the EARTH leg, cause it runs through the LED... i'm not sure whether it would allow anything through? Diodes are a one-way deal but i'm not sure how that would work with passing a ground through the LED and out to the SUPPLY. Who knows? Someone does! I believe the EARTH is purely for the LED to illuminate when positive power is put to the SUPPLY side, and as the power comes out to the LOAD for whatever you're turning on, the power also goes to the LED, which has its own ground. You have no positive power, so it won't light up.

When you say "no fittings" you mean there is no temp sensor on the exhaust temp guage?

A few weeks? Alarms, clock, stereo... stuff like that will all drain the battery. My mate unplugged his battery for something like two months, and it was totally fine to start the car afterwards. If it was connected, I doubt I could still claim the same outcome.

I have the same clutch in the same car... I get the jolting noises when reversing, and it feels a little laggy when changing... but I put that down to the fact that the clutch it grabbing COMPLETELY when you change gears, rather than slipping a bit and keeping the engine revs higher. My other clutch was VERY dead when I had the new one put in. I had my guy put in a nismo... um... now i've forgotten what it is called. Pivot ball? The bolt I think you're talking about. It's a thicker unit than the standard, and even though my standard one wasn't dead, I thought it a worthwhile piece of insurance.

Sounds like a highflow and retune might be the better option?

I don't know the answer, but I might start a betting ring. I'll just put my money on either a vacuum leak or stuffed exhaust manifold gasket. Manifold leak... Rough start when cold, things expand when hot, then runs ok... some boost missing could be the leaking manifold too.

Yikes! Get some innox or some kind of rust-easing spray onto it overnight. Then give the ol' spanner another try. OR... if you don't care about the old one, the bashing the top off to get a socket on will probably work too... if you get more leverage on the ratchet than you do the spanner.

The ignitor is built into the s2 ECU, correct. =-]

Yer, behind and a bit below the bracket, as Ron says. But do the locking bolt first!

How's the timing? When it's warm, mine will settle down to 8-9 degrees BTDC. Can you unplug the AAC sensor and check the idle again? i.e do the idle adjustment yourself. I suspect that if they didn't unplug whatever sensor it is that needs to be unplugged, they may have adjusted it for when it is cold? I use consult software, and when you choose the idle adjust option, the idle will drop if it's cold, or increase if it's warm. More to the point, the timing should be exactly 15 DBTC on an R33 (check what yours should be) Oh... I think it's the TPS you need to unplug on an R32. (but again, check first, i'm just guessing). So when the correct signal is blocked, and it's running the base timing, you can adjust the idle to 650rpm (again, R33, check what the R32 should idle at). If you can basically redo the adjustment for your car, i'd be keen to see the results.

Ah ok! Nice one! What kind of pricing can we expect? (btw, got my alarm fitted through you/security in motion... still very happy!)

Ah! Cheers, Chris. My 6.5's were just about too small, so I thought the slightly bigger ones might have been the go. Oh well. =-[

eh? I hate that... when someone else does the work and you don't know what's been done. There are a bunch of vacuum lines around the AAC valve housing, so if one of those were split or disconnected, you'd have a rough idle. Did they replace the seal for the AAC valve housing?

I beleive so. R34's are more like the 33's in the fact that they're both RB25's... and if the R33 turbo fits an RB20 with no problems, then i'm pretty sure it'd be a bolt-on affair? I guess you need confirmation that the banjo-bolts haven't changed in diameter or anything funny like that, but I beleive the manifold and dump should be fine.

Pics of the install?

I thought this was normal? Mine does it. Always "rich", but then that could even be just a *fraction* richer than the narrow-band that the stock O2 sensor can detect. (14.7 or whatever)

The top half should still come off ok. That's the "inspection" plate kind of thing.. so you can check the health of your timing belt?

Pretty sure the whole lot has to come off. I had my fan, pumps and everything off when I did it.

firstly: lol at the avatar! second: There sould be! There is on the R33. It's behind the bracket, and is very long like the alternator one. You need to loosen the locking bolt that is accessible from between the holes in the powersteering pulley. Once that's loose, the tensioner bolt should undo easily enough. If you take pics, it's easier to show.