RANDY

Jimmy... umm... someone will say something brilliant about rough low idling, but until then i'll just throw ideas at you. ;o) How are your engine mounts? Are your fan-blades looking pretty ok (and the same length?) Not sure what else would cause a shudder if not the idle?

As above, make sure you get the half-moon rubbers when you do the rocca/rocket/other variations i've seen rocker gasket. (man I wish there were rockets under my covers) =-]

Then when you're done, sell it to family friends as Bio-Diesel!

yer, as Chris mentions, I think the stockers were 6.75" x 6" or something crazy like that. 6.5" only just fit, depending on the mounting holes on the new spearkers. I'd guess that Pioneer or Kenwood 6.75" speakers would fit better.

Have you done the idle adjustment procedure yet?

Probably a leak. Apparently the A/C people can use some kind of light to see the leak. Might just be one of the fitting on the pipe, or your release valve might be loose. Either way, give your local A/C place a call and ask them rough figures. =-]

I maintain that this one is better ;o) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ADME:L:RTQ:AU:1

Replied back, and depositied!

I'll take SAFC2 if it's in good nick with wiring loom? PM please!

carputers have been around for a few years at least... and there are quite a few companies that make specifically carputers. So if that's the big secret, i'm sure everyone knows already. =-p =-]

Someone mounted it FOR you? Or you put it in? You'd have a lower level of oil because of the volume that the lines and core will need. So if you had it fitted for you, i'd say the mechanic would have known about the extra oil needed, and topped it up for you (or full flush), so now your oil level is higher? It will go higher with heat too, but the idea of the cooler is to lower the temps or keep them stable, so just HAVING a cooler shouldn't make the level go higher.

Nah.. GTR's just have two radiators. Extra coooool ;o)

So the screw he's talking about is the screw that clamps the bracket to the two rods? Crickey! Cheers, Chris!

Plugs are under the coilpacks, which are under the valley-cover (plastic with the Nissan bit printed on it). You need to take off the intake crossover pipe, unbolt the black metal pipes next to that, BOV, rocker breather pipe, etc etc... Once you have clear access to that cover, undo the 10 bolts (allen key), and you'll see your coilpacks. Unplug each coilpack. Metal clip like [ holds the plug onto the pack. Un-twist the metal harness clips so you can pull the whole wiring harness out of the way. (out of the valley completely) Now, you can either undo each coilpack (2 bolts each) out of the coilpack bracket, or remove the coilpack bracket with all the packs still in it. The 2nd way might be harder, as the coilpacks are fairly clicked onto the spark plugs. Get some compressed air, or an air compressor, then blow all down the valley. Get rid of all the dirt and crud around before you undo the spark plugs. (use proper spark-plug socket) Once they're out, you dont' want stuff going down the hole into the cylinder, so do one plug at a time. Old out, new in, old out, new in... 6 times eh? =-] Standard gap is 1.1, from memory? 0.8mm is used when people have problems with coilpacks, or run so much boost that the air blows the spark out before it can make contact with the tip of it. Up to you and what you call "stage 1" I spose? Good time to clean the coilpacks too... Pull the rubber boots off, clean and stretch the springs out a bit if some are shorter than others. Check for missing paint or cracks in the pack. Reassemble. I guess you know how to put spark plugs back in, and how tight to do them up. ;o)

Agreed, that wiring is horrible! =-o Disconnect battery. I saw a few steps of a R32 GTR replacement fuel pump when my mate did his. From memory, he went under the car and hose-clamped off the fuel line (the high-pressure outlet one. Return shouldn't be too bad) where the line changes to rubber pipe for a bend. That might save a lot of fuel flying back out in yer eye!

I'm on the same kind of path.. I don't want a front-mount (blocking my radiator, and i'm sure the IC would absorb some radiator heat too), I don't want to chop my bar, and I don't want to chop my engine bay or engine fan blades. So, i'm running an R34 SMIC, and it's considerably larger and freer flowing. If you want to go up from there, the ARC SMIC's are more expensive, but are lighter and even better flowing. (all aluminium apparently). Otherwise, the link above is one of the few kits around that reuse your existing pipe-work and holes... but that still means running a front-mount. Some kits may not require modding your front bar, but then it's all down to your requirements. R34 swapout is dead easy. Allow for one hour stuffing around with undoing the hose-clamps and taking the front wheel off. $200 from the FS area, or ebay. =-]

You could probably switch to a series2 R33 turbo or an R34 item and run 20psi or so. Smaller motor is easier for a turbo to make more boost without killing itself. Might cost you a fraction more than $300, maybe $450 for a good used R33 S2 turbo. The R33 item would probably only have to spin up the same rpm on your motor to make 20psi, as it pushes 12psi on a '33? On a related topic... What is the stock boost on an RB20? I thought it was close to 12psi anyway? Definitely more than the 33's stock 7psi, i'd imagine.

Heh... at AutoSalon last year, the basketball bus had a full 4" (or more?) system on it. I got talking to the bus-driver. It is basically a pimped out coach! Surprisingly, it sounded good. Deep, but not 4-cylindery like a Civic, and not so deep like a truck. OH well... if you're going to sik up a Hyundai, you might as well let people sik up a bus/truck! EDIT: Remembered the basketball group. "AND1"

I honestly can't picture what you mean. Wanna post a pic incase anyone else has the problem a year from now and uses the "search"? =-]

So... it is illegal to advertise cigarettes? So then it's illegal to resell retail packs of smokes... and it's illegal to buy smokes from a minor. I might have been up for this, but it's looking a bit tricky. (and the shipping will add to the price, right?)

I'll second that. Get an autosparky to make a new one if it's easier for you. Otherwise, big-ass guage cable, a nice gold-plated battery terminal with clamp-style rather than crimp-style wire connections, then the other end, which is on a big O-ring kinda plug I think from memory? Make it up, take the old one off the battery and the fuse-block, then put the new one on! Careful with any cutting or removing or levering with metal things. You don't wanna accidentally short your battery on the underside of the parcel tray (or any rear strut-brace you may have) ;o)

You couldn't remove the arm-rest control panel or the clip around the internal door-lever and tug on the rods that the actuator hinges on? I guess it depends where the clip is eh? That sucks. I had to fix my sisters clip on her passenger side door of her Mirage... but you could still manually unlock the door, so getting the doortrim off was a breeze. So if the actuator is screwed, and the clip is still fine, then it's the clip that's holding onto the rod, which is stuck to a jammed actuator. If you could pull hard enough on the rod to make the clip slip, then in theory the door would unlock?

Search for "coil pack" or something. Not sure how that might work on a Ford Probe??? Are the car details in your avatar the car that you're asking about? If it's an R33 (as your username suggests), then definitely look at the coilpack threads.

There is a locking bolt that holds the adjusting bolt in place. Put a socket through the slots on the powersteering pulley, and the bolt is right there. Once that is loose, you should be able to loosen the timing bolt (The really long one) until you can push the PS pump towards the motor and pop the belt off. Same thing back on, and then check it in a week or two, cause the new belt will slacken as it wears in/stretches.

As for the timing.. one of the software packages I use has some diagnostic tests. Shutting down cylinders is one of them... you can also raise (not literally, but to the ECU) the engine temp (to see if your thermo fan turns on, for example... and see how much the ignition retards) And then there is a base idle adjustment. I think, from memory, that you have to unplug the TPS or something when adjusting the base idle? When you hit this in the software, the idle goes up just over 1000rpm. I'm assuming it's blocking whatever signal you need (TPS?) to adjust the idle. Timing... I think you can? Can't remember, but it's only while your PC is on and running the software, nothing is permanent. Yes.. pretty sure you can actually. Risky business, but you could play with it.